20 Most Recent 2005 Ford Freestar - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Take it to a transmission shop ,sounds like you need a rebuild .

Probably could. The code means the signals from the cam and crank sensors are not aligned.

Hi there I am a mechanical technician engineer I fix the things normal mechanic cant! I fix mechanical and electric problem no matter what it is the problem with it!!!I I am very good and bless in my work I am 5gen mechanical engineering technician never have a problem I can not fix sounds like the o2 sin. Need to be change

The emission light comes on when the computer detects a leak or malfunctioning part in the system. It can come on due to a loose gas cap to a disconnected hose. There a lot of things that make this light come on. IS the check engine light on/flashing? If so, you may have a misfire causing the shake. If the engine light is on, have the codes scanned to isolate the problem.

Check fuses. Could be a few different things what type of vehicle? Another simple thing to try is unhook the battery for 10 minutes then reconnect it and try them

you probably want to turn the idle down to about 900 rpms manually since you replaced the egr

the switch is going bad it is on the latch itself

Have you checked the fuse to see if it is good. you may just need to replace it. If you look in the owners manual it will show you where to find it.

If it dies right when you put it in gear. It would be the valve body or the torque converter lock up solenoid sticking. These can be checked and replaced with out pulling the transmission. The codes have to be read, Since it is intermittent, you have to use a scanner to look at history codes.

the problem is not the bulb but the fact that you think that by removing the bulb the sensor problem will go away I you fix the sensor problem the bulb will stop blinking and when it starts again you will be aware that you have a problem that needs fixing

This is most likely from the blend door sticking on the front plenum. Check it for motion and you will see if it is broken, stuck or has a bad actuator. You can do this by looking for heater fan and then the control wires that go to the area of the fan. One controls the blend, the other controls the mode.

More than likely it is caused from not getting enough of fuel, Check fuel filter to see if its ok. God-Bless!

read your manual,,,,,,

Need 1/4 inch and 3/8 drill bit.

*Remove the rear tire *Get yourself an old wire coat hanger (or some bailing wire) *Remove the 2 - 13mm bolts holding the caliper in place *Bend the wire/coat hanger and use it to "hang" the caliper on - basically do not let the caliper hang by its hose. *Rock the caliper back and forth a little until it comes away from the caliper bracket, then hang it on your wire. *Remove the 2 - 18mm bolts holding the caliper mounting bracket and remove the bracket, set it aside. *Remove the rotor - You might need to hit it with a rubber mallet to get it to come lose (rust). *At this point you should see the hub (the part with the lug studs sticking out towards you). On the backside of the hub, you should see 4 studs facing the inward, *Follow the wire for your wheel speed sensor that is located in the center of those 4 studs facing inwards (you should see it pretty clearly) and disconnect it. *Remove the hub's nuts (15mm if I recall), then swap out your hub assembly. *Reconnect the wire Use the reverse order to put things back together. Hope this helps! Cheers

Check the fluid, first and foremost, then look at the color and for burn marks on the dipstick. If there are burn marks that can indicate an overheating/cooling issue. If that is in fact the case you will want to deal with the quickly as to avoid issues. Many people assume that if the transmission is still shifting okay there must not be a problem. That just isn't the case know days as on board computers do much of the shifting vs old school where it was based on pressure. Other possibilities include the pump is going, bad, I think Torque Converter and possibily a solenoid. Bill