20 Most Recent 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 2WD - Page 5 Questions & Answers

change the trans filter

is there an odor??
sounds like maybe a leaky a/c evaporator core!!

Hissing noise likely is a failed vacuum "motor' that controls the blend door. You can locate it by putting a length of hose in your ear and using the other end as a directional probe. Follow the sound and you will find it...Reaching it to replace is another story...may need a manual to remove.

the dealer needs to find out the codes and from the codes they should know what the problem is, and then should manage to sort the problems from there,

The problem is with the sensor inside the gas tank since the method of indication used is by passing an electric current & the resistance to that current is a measure of level of liquid in the tank , i.e. the gauge consists of two parts:

• The sensing unit
• The indicator

The sensing unit usually uses a float connected to a potentiometer. As the tank empties, the float drops and slides a moving contact along the resistor, increasing its resistance. In addition, when the resistance is at a certain point, it will also turn on a "low fuel" light on some vehicles.
However if this float gets stuck to the bottom of the tank or a leak fills up the float making it sink to the bottom of the tank, thus always indicating 'E' for empty.........................sodeep

replace the fog lights relay.

The intermitent system works off a circuit board which can not be tested by your means of your question. If the high & low speeds works fine the board is bad and should be replaced if sold separately from Chrysler

Your ignition timing may have advanced too far. Or it is now where it should be and is making more cylinder pressure during combustion causing the gasoline to ignite to early causing detonation or ping.

Make sure the ignition timing is correct. If it is try better fuel meaning the octane rating.

If you can go up to the next octane level. For example if you are using 87 go to 89 and see if it goes away. 3 of my wife's last cars a 1986 Honda Prelude, 2000 Neon, and a 2003 Neon had some ping under medium to hard acceleration. She switched to 89 octane and the ping went away completely in each vehicle. Each of the vehicle had a good deal of miles on them.

The 2003 Neon has 75000 miles on it now and runs great on 89 octane. About a year ago I tried 87 Octane in her car and the ping came right back.

Your thermostat could be bad, getting stuck. I had that happen. While driving down the road I noticed the guage went way over to the hot side then went back. I changed it and all is well. It will run hot if there is something blocking the air flow through your radiator. Good clean oil up to the fill line will help your engine run cooler. If you havent changed your oil and filter lately, the oil filter may be clogged (full) and the oil is bypassing it. This will leave gunk and metal parts in the oil that make the oil hotter than it should be. Make sure your coolant level is topped off and you have antifreeze in it. The proper mixture of antifreeze helps keep an engine cool. If there is too much grease and oil buildup on the outside of your engine it will run hotter because the air flow cannot reach the metal and cool it off. Is your radiator clogged. Some people, if they have a leak in the radiator will use stuff to seal it from the inside. These additives can clog the radiator. 
HAVE YOU RECENTLY WORK ON ANY REPLACEMENT FOR YOUR THERMOSTAT?
Are you sure you have the right thermostat ?

you have 2 fuse boxes one in the cab the other is in front in the hood. Look at your manual under Fuses for more information.
this is vickygomar   e-mail me at vicky4home@hotmail .com
How can you AVOID  future problem?
the problem of burning fuses is because its too long connected for example your converter to reduce burning fuses what I do when I need to use it for my lap top  I just plug it for a bit 10 mts then I turn it off n so on and on. hope this works for U thank you for your question.

The ignition module is probably bad. Remove it, and take it to a local parts store, they will typically test it for free.

go to this link it tells you everything


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Engine+Mechanical&partName=Engine+And+Engine+Overhaul&pageId=0900c152800c06ce&subChapterTitle=Water+Pump&partId=0900c152800c06c1

there is not supposed to be power to switch it runs on mila amps . check brake switch on brake pedal make sure the pedal depresses it all the way .

check your tires for rubbing on fender well

hi
I am thinking it is one of three things or a combination of three. 

First would be not getting enough vacuum but you tried pulling the cable by hand and it would not engage so that's probably not it.

Second would be that the cable is corroded and third would be that the gear/sleeve in the picture I posted is worn.

Pull the battery out and remove the battery tray. disconnect the cable from the actuator and look at the way the clip is made and how it attaches because the clip on the other end is made the same way. 

Crawl underneath the truck and where the other end of the cable attaches to the axle you will see a switch screwed into the side. Unplug the wiring connector and remove this switch. Now remove the three bolts holding the cable housing to the axle. There are no seals on this so if it's not the problem, you can put it back together without having to wait for parts.

Slide the cable housing back until you can release the clip and remove the cable. This is the reason for disconnecting at the actuator first, you wouldn't have enough slack to be able to slide the housing back. After you disconnect the cable, it should look like this:

Jack up the right front wheel. Pull on the stem shown in the picture while slowly turning the the wheel. If it engages the driveshaft will start turning. If you had the truck in 4wd before you removed the battery then the axle will lock and you won't be able to turn the wheel. This is good.

I am guessing that you will find the problem in the cable. If the axle does not lock when you pull the stem (the wheel spins but the driveshaft does not) then the problem may be the clutch fork or the sleeve that the fork rides on (see the picture in a previous post). That is not good but still possible to fix yourself, it will take a lot longer though.

If you find the problem and start putting things back together, put some sealant on the surface of the plate where the cable housing mounts with the three bolts. This will help keep dirt and water out of the cable. When you screw the switch back in keep in mind that the housing is plastic and don't over-tighten or you will be buying a new cable housing.

Let me know what you find.,,,,thank u for using fixya

The blower gate is not opening to allow heat to other ducts under the dash. Its either mechanical or vacuum controlled from the knob on the dash. Look for a loose vauum pipe (usually brightly colored ones) under the passenger side footwell, allso chck to see if any actuator arms have dislodged.

both upper and lower should be warm when engine is warmed up and thermostat is working properly

circulation of hot hot water to inside cabin to heater core ..and fan blowing strong are all necessary here.....back flush system.. (good cooling system service) including flushing teh heater lines with all heater lines open ...refill and test... or to be sure replace thermostat and any suspect heater hoses at same time....a good shop with infrared gun can trace heat and locate blockage if necessary... good luck

Try a thremostat first, but you made need to flush & clean the heater core with C.L.R.