20 Most Recent 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab - Page 9 Questions & Answers

You must do the diagnostics for each code.Here are the possibilitesP0740 DODGE - Torque Converter Clutch Circuithttp://engine-codes.com/p0740_dodge.htmlForum CodePossible causes- Low transmission fluid level - Dirty transmission fluid - Faulty torque converter clutch solenoid valve - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve harness or connectors - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted P0743 DODGE - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuithttp://engine-codes.com/p0743_dodge.htmlForum CodePossible causes- Faulty torque converter clutch solenoid valve - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve harness or connectors - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted - Low transmission fluid level - Dirty transmission fluid P0753 DODGEP0753 DODGE - 3-4 Shift Solenoid Relayhttp://engine-codes.com/p0753_dodge.htmlForum CodePossible causes- Faulty shift solenoid valve - Shift solenoid valve harness or connectors - Shift solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted - Low transmission fluid level - Dirty transmission fluid

Take off the shroud around the steering colum & check for a broken wire from the light switch. You must have an incomplete circut somewhere (Broken wire or a short but if it was shorting your fuse would probably be blown) so I would 1st check for broken wire.

Look at fuse #18, a 15 amp fuse, in the fuse block. This fuse powers both the tail lights and instrument cluster lights. Usually both of these light systems are powered by the same fuse so when your cluster isn't lit up you'll know right away that your tail lights aren't working as it's not safe to drive without tail lights. Your brake, turn, and head lamps are powered by different circuits. Hope this helps and good luck!

I had the same problem with my 98 Dodge and It turned out to be a faulty Steering shock dampner on the front end? Check your front end for any loose tie-rod ends, Track bar, Ball joints Ect. Also check and see if there is a shock absorber installed on your front end? If not you can get one for it at any parts stores but Moog makes a good solid after market kit that you can get at any NAPA Auto parts. Good luck.

If the engine will not come up in RPMS when your pushing the gas pedel . Its more likely you have a problem with fuel getting into the engine then a transmission slipage problem . You need to think and test dose the trany slip at all you can tell if the engine revs and it dosn't go forward . If its the other way around the engine pigs out when you hit the gas then its fuel related . Do you have engine lights comeing on on the dashboard . If no that means you don't have problems with sensors . Witch leaves the fuel system . It could be a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel injector issues or a bad fuel pump . Try the filters first clogged filters will damage the fuel pump . But from what you are saying its likely the fuel pump is the problem its a 97 and if it hasn't been changed in the past then its 14 years old 10 years is good most pumps good luck

There are MANY things that can cause an engine to "shake and sputter".Shake and sputter in the auto repair world is called "cylinder misfire". There is not enough room on this page to list all the different things that can cause a cylinder misfire. Diagnosing a misfire can take several different turns depending on things like how many cylinders are misfiring, at what engine RPM(S) is(are) the misfire(S) occuring, what engine temperatures, vehicle speeds, etc. etc. etc.. Certain possible causes can either be verified or eliminated due to the answers to these questions.The first thing to do is to scan your engine control computer to see if there are any stored Diagnostic Test Codes (DTCs - commonly reffered to as "fault codes"). This can have a HUGE influence on which turn to take. It is kind-of like when your thumb is smashed to pieces and turning black, you know when you check the data that your pain was not caused by a razor blade...it was the hammer that did it. If you do not look at the data, all you know is that your thumb hurts.

I suggest you use the proper transmission cooling line because the transmission fluid may not be compatible with the high pressure hose. You don't want this hose to fail in the middle of nowhere.

Oh boy... I don't know how familar you are with vehicles. So I assume that the battery is good? 1. Because it is cranking doesn't necessarily mean it is. 2. Could be bad fuel, fouled plugs, fuel filter? When is the last time you have tuned this vehicle? Also check throttle. I would need a little more information as to how this all started and what you have done to this vehicle so far and previous mantenance.