It depends on what engine you have, but typically it's located somewhere midways on the fuel rail. It will have a schrader valve that looks kinda like the valve on your tires.
If it is a 4.6L V8 or a 4.0 V6 engine, the ford part number is 9F927. The price according to fordparts.com is $181 and that is list price just for the part and does not include labor to install the part. Have you had the Error codes pulled from the ODB II port? if not, you need too. The codes could tell us what part of the sensor is a problem and help tell exactly what the problem might be. The sensor could have a broken wire going to it causing it to light the "Check Engine Light" (or CEL) and the sensor could be fine if the wire is repaired.
I don't have a ford explorer but MOST fuel injection systems by using fuel to cool the injectors and the injector is given more fuel than it needs to run the engine. Any fuel not used by the injectors for combustion is returned to the tank and the fuel is placed back in the tank to be used by the fuel system again. If the fuel pressure regulator is controlled by the fuel pressure sensor and the injectors are injecting more fuel for combustion, you could be running rich and your exhaust will be very black and sooty at the tail pipe. Come back with the CEL Code and maybe we can find out more about the exact problem with your car.
Sounds like blower motor may be bad or even a fuse can be bad. Take a test light and check for voltage at blower motor, if none check at blower resister, but always check fuses first
Sticky valve, happens often, put in a bottle of transmedic made by gunk, works great. Fixed many transmission problems with this, when other shops said that transmission needed rebuilt
Replace your blend door and actuator for the blend door and everything will work fine after that. This is a fairly common problem with all fords. The location is behind the glove box. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_677dced97ad9bddf
Try it on Manuel shifting, if no response, you will have two possible options; check the Transmission Fluid, if it's fine, the last option would be checking the Transmission it self. This could be done by proffissional Mechanics.
Did you test or just replace it ? There is a fuel pump driver module that controls the pump , an the PCM tells how much fuel to pump by a sensor on the fuel rail ! the fuel rail pressure sensor ! Your vehicle has Ford Electronic Returnless Fuel System ! watch this guy on testing Ford Electronic Returnless Fuel System Diagnosis Part 1Ford Electronic Returnless Fuel System Diagnosis Part 2
did you check Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) Switch The IFS switch is used in conjunction with the electric fuel pump. The purpose of the IFS switch is to shutoff the fuel pump if a collision occurs. It consists of a steel ball held in place by a magnet. When a sharp impact occurs, the ball breaks loose from the magnet, rolls up a conical ramp and strikes a target plate which opens the electrical contacts of the switch and shuts off the electric fuel pump. Once the switch is open, it must be manually reset before restarting the vehicle. Refer to the Owner's Literature for the location of the IFS.
Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM)
Note: For the LS, the FPDM functions are incorporated in the rear electronic module (REM). The fuel pump operation is the same as for applications using the stand-alone FPDM. However, the REM communicates diagnostic information through the communication link instead of using a fuel pump monitor (FPM) circuit.
Note: The Ford GT uses 2 FPDMs to control fuel for the dual-injection fuel delivery system. The PCM outputs only one fuel pump duty cycle which is used by both pumps. The PCM individually monitors the FPDMs through their fuel pump monitor circuits. Both FPDMs are mounted on the same bracket. The FPDM mounted in the upper position on the bracket is referred to as FPDM and the FPDM mounted in the lower position, is referred to as FPDM2.
The FPDM receives a duty cycle signal from the PCM and controls the fuel pump operation in relation to this duty cycle. This results in variable speed fuel pump operation. The FPDM sends diagnostic information to the PCM on the fuel pump monitor circuit. For additional information on Fuel Pump Control and the Fuel Pump Monitor, refer to Fuel Systems in this section. You need to do some research on line. depending on the location these FPDM corrode an short out ! This vehicle in the video is inside but on some trucks they are underneath the vehicle ! This guy here scanner danner is a automotive teacher an knows he's stuff !
this could be a lot of things so let's go down the line here with a few questions and answers O.K most times it's a tune up issue ,check your air filter, spark plugs can be out of gap , so let's take them out clean them and if they can be re-gapped do that if not change them with brand new ones if up on removal you find that they are wet with antifreeze or are covered with oil there is a anti freeze leak an intake manifold leaking gasket or you have internal engine damage if no liquids are present HOORAY! FOR YOU,INSPECT THE BOOTS FOR CRACKS BY BENDING THEM BACK AND FORTH AND SQUEEZING THE BOOTS AROUND THE PLUG HOLE AND REPLACE THEM ALL IF YOU FIND ONE THAT IS CRACKED BECAUSE HEAT AND AGE IS THE CULPRIT HERE AND YOU SHOULD CHANGE THEM ALL SO THE PROBLEM DOESN'T COME BACK SOON AND CAN BE RULED OUT AS A POSSIBLE CAUSE IF THE PROBLEM PERSISTS next after cleaning the plugs/new ones has been done and the problem persists spray some fuel injection cleaner into the throttle body and rev the engine while doing it and do this a few times this will clean out the throttle body and fuel injectors partially if you are using the cheapest gas you can get EX.(GO,GO,SUN,USA ,GAS ,PILOT,VALERO,DELTA NO NAME BRANDED) your fuel system is very dirty and the problem is going to come back soon if not relieved at all this no name fuel has no detergents in it no additives for carbon removal and your fuel system and valves are covered in carbon and varnish and this can be like glue inside and causes sticking valves , even though ford says 87 octane 93 is the way to go and the major brands are what should be used with increased mileage and cleaner combustion/valve train is what you want here. fuel system cleaner like gum out that's why they call it that in the tank two bottles if your using no name junk fuel. SO DO YOUR TRUCK A FAVOR GO GET A TANK OF BP ULTIMATE,EXXON PREMIUM,SHELL,MOBILE THE MAJOR BRANDS OF PREMIUM GAS WILL HELP TO CLEAN OUT SOME OF THE GUNK AND VARNISH 93 OCTANE FUEL AND A HIGHWAY DRIVE WILL HELP CLEAN YOUR SYSTEM, SO DO THESE THINGS AND POST BACK WITH PROGRESS AND PLEASE BE VERY SPECIFIC ABOUT WHAT YOU DID SO WE CAN NOW CHECK OTHER POSSIBILITIES
IF YOU FIND THIS INFO USEFUL PLEASE RATE ME AS A FIXYA! THANKS
Oil Change Reset A press of the OIL CHANGE RESET switch will allow you to reset the oil life feature to 100% (or your Personalized Oil Reset Percentage). After you have the oil changed, you must execute the following procedure. Press the OIL CHANGE RESET switch and hold for five seconds as the M/C counts down for five seconds. After a successful reset the Message Center will display “OIL LIFE RESET TO 100%.” If you have established a Personalized Oil Reset Percentage, the display will show that percentage instead of 100%. To ensure accurate oil life indicators, perform this reset procedure only after an oil change. Your Personalized Oil Reset Percentage allows you to establish a smaller oil change interval than the manufacturer’s recommended interval. To establish your Personalized Oil Reset Percentage perform the following procedure: 1. Press and hold the OIL CHANGE RESET switch and press the RESET switch while the display is still counting down the 5 seconds to reset. The display will change to “START OIL LIFE AT XXX%.” 2. Press the OIL CHANGE RESET switch until the displayed percentage is the Personalized Oil Reset Percentage that you desire. Your choices are 100%, 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40% and 30%.
The horn itself is often the culprit. They can be temperamental. Easy way to check is to run 12V directly to the horn and see if it works. If it does, and the fuse is good, look to the horn relay.
Sounds like the starter solenoid went out. Watch this video to figure out where the starter is. Take off the battery terminals and take a hammer and hit the starter a few times (not too hard). Sometimes this fixes the problems (parts get stuck once they start getting old). If this doesn't fix it, you'll need to replace the starter.
