Top 20 1994 Dodge Dakota Club Cab Questions & Answers

is their a switch /dimmer in the dash somewhere ?

Use a 12 Volt test light at the tail light connector and see if power is present at the harness, this would indicate a possible defective bulb socket.

try auto zone library

Bad bulb ,& or socket

#1 cylinder is at top dead center twice during a normal combustion cycle - once at the top of the compression stroke and once at the top of the exhaust stroke. To make sure you're coming up on the compression stroke, remove the #1 spark plug and hold your finger over the hole as you rotate the crankshaft. If you feel pressure, it's the right stroke. If you don't, continue for another complete revolution of the crankshaft. Once you'e at TDC on the compression stroke, then insert your distributor with the rotor pointing at the #1 position (you may need to adjust the distributor drive shaft - lift it to disengage from the cam gear - to get the rotor pointing as close as possible to #1).

105 millas por hora del factoria.

Sounds like the cylinder is not connected with the switch, or the cylinder is broken.

Is a power retainers . Most have 30 20 + 40 amp . Fueses . Normally 1 is you alternator 1 is your stater and you supply .

here is the diagram

yes follow the steps in video and get an alignment

Blown fuse?

Are you wanting to remove the transmission and transfer case? If so, I advise that you have a good place to work and preferably a transmission jack. While fairly familiar with them, I haven't removed a transmission from a 4-wheel drive Dodge Dakota, but know they're considered to be one of the more difficult ones to do. Have you done this sort of thing before? That said, I can give you instructions. The transmission doesn't actually bolt to the frame. It bolts to the engine bell-housing and there'll be a rubber mount at the rear which probably fastens it to the cross-member with 2 bolts. There are several small things which have to be disconnected/removed, like wiring, the speedometer cable, both drive-shafts, etc. Let me know if you want to remove the transfer case and transmission or just the transfer case.

crank sensor usually the problem located on the rear side of the passenger cylinder head it reads off the flywheel cam sensor is your distributor

The clutch safety switch should be on top of the clutch pedal.

Only with the head-lights on? What about with just parking lights? And I assume that means it doesn't do it unless the lights are on? My first guess would be either a bad ground at the left (drivers side) tail-light, or possibly a 1156-type, single-filament bulb being inadvertently placed in the socket that calls for a 1157 double-filament bulb. That may not be your problem, but what that does is makes a short from the tail-light power to the brake-light/turn-signal filament in that bulb. One thing to do too is check the turn-signals to see if they work properly with and then without the lights on. Make sure it isn't the tail-light filament flashing. It may flash, but won't be as bright as the proper filament is. I hope this begins to help, and I'll watch for a response.

No fire to the coil or no fire from it? There's one wire from the ignition circuit to the coil that energizes it. If there's no power to the coil there, replacing the coil wouldn't gain anything, and the problem would require several steps to try to diagnose. If there is power to the coil, but no spark from it to the distributor, then the first two things I'd consider are the ignition control module and the reluctor assembly in the distributor. I would need to know more specifically what you checked and how.

Size of motor?

If your other dash gauges work, which eliminates the gauge fuse, what you need to do first is determine whether it's the "sending unit" which is in the gas tank. This may not be easy as you may have to lower the gas tank to get to the wires that attach to the sending unit. If you're lucky, the wires may have a connector visible close to the tank. There will be one or two wires. Disconnect them, and then have someone turn the ignition on while they watch the gas gauge. While they watch, ground the wires one at a time to a good, relatively clean metal part of the frame. You may need to use a length of wire connected to a good ground on one end, and touch the other end to each tank wire one at a time. If you dash gas gauge is good, when you ground one of the wires the gas gauge will go all the way to the "full" limit. If that happens, the gas-tank sending unit is probably bad. If there are two wires going to it though, you need to make sure neither one is broken somewhere. If the gas gauge does NOT go all the way to "full", then you have either a bad wire or a bad gauge.

The ground wiring on newer vehicles is a little complicated. Older cars, the ground would have been to the body around the tail-lights, but these have a ground wire in the harness and is connected to the turn-signal switch, and other sources. I don't think you have a ground problem. Does the fuse blow as soon as you press it into the fuse-block, or when you step on the brake? I believe you have a dead short somewhere, possibly a pinched turn-signal wire close to the tail-light assembly. Brake lights work through the turn-signal wires from the turn-signal switch on the steering column. That's how you can have one side blinking for turn while the other side stays on for brake. I'm kind of shooting in the dark here because I don't know what all you've done. If you replaced the turn-signal switch in the steering column, you may have pinched a wire or something there. Another thing, if the fuse doesn't blow as soon as you press it in, will both turn-signals work as long as you don't press on the brake? If you can provide a little more information, I might be able to help you more. One last thing....Have you replaced tail-light/turn-signal bulbs? If so, be sure you used the right bulb. You should only have two bulbs, one for back-up lights and one 1157-type combination for tail-lights and turn-signals. I have seen people use a single contact (1056) bulb in place of a 1157, which creates a short from brake/turn-signal back into the tail-light circuit. I do have a 1994 Dodge Dakota.

You have to have both crank case and cam shaft sensors working or you will not get fire.