1983 Dodge Pickup - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

A standard ignition coil normally generate about 15,000 - 25,000 volt depending the requirement to spark the spark plugs. The input volt should be 12 volt but the amperage should run about 400Va.
So now what is the question?

It could be a bad brake pressure sender. It should be on the master cylinder. It also could be a bad connection to it so try cleaning up the contacts. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/cameron_6665f74c5d46fc23

The fact that it's turning over indicates that the start relay is good.Couple of quick questions to help me out please,if the 2 things at the bottom do not show anything.You drove it all the way home and then when you went to restart it would not start?I think that's what you mean.What do you mean that the interior battery light is off?How much spark did you see at alternator?The fact that your battery turns over good and strong should mean your alternator is okay.How far did you drive home from the shop?Normally,because of the ethanol used now,the gas will junk out if not run at all if it sits for about 6 weeks.It seems that yours hasn't junked but is still a possibility.

Do you have carbeurator or fuel injection?

You should try to jump start for at least 2 tries.If that doesn't work and you have a carb,pour a little gas into the carb and see if it fires.If you still get nothing,then I would like you to answer the questions I posted.Good luck,Greg

It should be on the left front (driver's side). Check the intake manifold, if it's factory each cylinder should be listed.

THE INNER STUDS FOR THE INNER WHEELS ARE NUTS AS WELL AND SECURE THE INNER WHEEL. USE A SQUARE DRIVE TO REMOVE THESE STUD/NUTS. DRIVER SIDE NUTS/STUD ARE LEFT HANDED(STAMPED WITH A BIG (L)). AND PASS SIDE RIGHT HANDED. THESE TORQUE SPEC OUT @ 400-450 LB FT. OF TORQUE, YOU WILL HAVE TO USE A CHEATER BAR OR HEAVY DUTY INPACT!

Try putting a little gas in the top of the carb. Then try to start, if it starts then it's a fuel problem, clogged filter, lines, carb or fuel pump. If it doen't start with the gas then check for spark, disconnect a spark plug wire put on a spare spark plug, ground plug threads to motor and have someone turn over motor. You should see a spark between plug and electrode. Also you could check compression of engine, rings could be siezed and no compression will mean no start. If low or no compression, pour wd-40 or other lubricant into spark plug holes and let sit for a couple of days. Hopefully that would unsieze rings.

Save yourself a lot of time and money and go online and make a Google Search.
Try first typing in just a description of the needed parts. If you don't get the results that you want,
then type in Auto Salvage Parts, and follow the prompts.

Best regards,

The Wrench

Does that have the ceramic ballast on firewall as well? If so, use a jumper wire from terminal to terminal to see if that helps. (ceramic block about 1-1/2" x 3") usually was located on passenger area firewall behind engine.

hi, it seams if you rejetted it wrong or left them out. if float stuck it will flood carburetter and the plugs will get WET and will not start. try to remember the other things you done. gerry

What is the chassis number, last 6 digits?

sounds like no compression on cyclinders if the engine has a lot of miles on it then i would get a compression test done on each cyclinder.adrian,,,,,,,,,,

star by checking all the ground straps from batt to block and engine to body, me guess is you missed one

your tranny is done- old and tired

Check your pcv valve and breather, they could be clogged causing excess crankcase pressure.

Hi,
Did you remove and replace the distributor? If so, it's possible that you installed the new distributor 180 degrees out. Check the location of the rotor and pull the distributor back out and relocate the rotor 180 degrees.
I hope this helps... Good luck!

Check the wires to the senders for grounding Those gauges have a power lead to gauge then to sender. The more the sending unit "grounds" the higher the gauge reading

New coil? New points and condensor (if applicable) If electronic, clean sender and receiver phototransistor and sensor wheel in distributor? Is distributor rotor turning with engine? Make sure you have good electrical connections and solid ground to engine block.

You are on the right path. You gave away the answer when you said you can dry the plugs and then it will start and run for a few seconds before flooding out again.

To solve the problem (there seem to be two of them) do the following:

You need to stop fuel from entering the engine, either disconnect the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump or route the output from the fuel pump to a gas can or back to the tank, just don't let it get to the carb.

Pull the coil wire, pull the plugs and spin the motor over so it can get dried out.
Pulling the coil wire should help reduce the risk of the fuel being blown from the cylinders from somehow getting ignited. BE CAREFULL!!!

Now dry the plugs and put them back in, plug in the coil wire and fire it up. Based on what you have said it sounds like it will probably start up (if only for a second or three). Now pour two or three teaspoons of gasoline into the carb and start it again.

If it starts and then dies that is a good thing. Do the two or three teaspoons and start it two or three times. This will heat up the compression chambers a little and help to dry them out a little better.

Now, at this point it runs fine (well as fine a 2 or 3 teaspoons will run it) as long as it has fuel, air and spark.

Hook up the fuel line again and start it up. One of two things will take place.

1. All is well! Great, it was just REALLY flooded.

2. It runs for about 10 seconds before becoming flooded again.... ****, it sounds like your "new" carb is flooding the engine. Find out how!

Good luck. I have used this "fix" a few times over the years. Normally the engine is REALLY, REALLY, REALLY flooded. Usually because the original problem happened on a hot summer day and the float stuck when the engine was shut off. The heat of the engine boiled the gasoline which in turn flooded the engine. The float stayed stuck when they came back to start it and TA DA.

Several times a little tap on the side of the carb "cured" the problem and a fuel additive was used to clean up the sticky float issue.

In one instance the 4 banger was so flooded we had to snake a hose into the cylinders and **** the fuel out. We must have sucked a quart of fuel out of that little '80 Mustang. We still ended up draining the oil (it smelled like it was full of fuel too) and we spun it over until it quit spraying gasoline all over. Man was that a mess!!!

Check the firewall for a ballast resister. It's a little porcelain thing with either one blade connected wire or two on each side. Held to the firewall with one bolt in the center. Change that, and keep a spare on hand.

the throttle position sensor may be "noisey" causing computer to think your are accel. that unlocks the torque conveter. try a new one
also make sure the brake lights on coming on and off when driving that will do it to.