Top 20 1983 Dodge Pickup - Page 4 Questions & Answers

its probly a 318 it will be stamped on the drivers side on the block!!

sometimes the emergency brake will stick even after it is released. Most drum brakes will still let it go backwards but not forward. I would pull the rear drums and check. If e/brake is stuck removing the left drum will be difficult. If so then you will have to manually adjust the brakes until drum loosens up. good luck

Ballest resistor is bad

318 MOTOR? RIGHT SIDE OF MOTOR AT THE FRONT

The firing order should be stamped on the intake manifold. The firing order for V6 is:

1-6-5-4-3-2

Do you mean the switch, or the key and tumbler?

The starter solenoid is bad.

its your balist resistor you will find it on the firewall,its useally made of white porcelin and has a 2 wire feed

my guess would be to tighten up the choke a small bit

third-to-foufth shift malfunction

2 seperate problems . manifold gasket, and a blocked radiator , check for water in the oil,though i think it will be partial blockage of the radiator

The pump is not supposed to stay on, you should only hear it for a second or two when the ignition is turned on. At least you know the pump is working. There must be a problem in the ignition system, like no spark, do to a bad coil, ignition module, without testing it's hard to say.

This is a common problem on 4x4 trucks and jeeps, it is cause by stress building up on the axels, An easy way to relieve the stress is to drive in reverse for a few yards, this relieves the tention that builds up on 4x4s. I know it sounds crazy stress and tention?? it has to do with the ratio on turning radius, the outside wheel has to travel farther than the inside wheel and this causes stress and tention on the axel/front end.also try and not turn so sharp.you will notice that goes away if you dont turn as sharp...

You can get this info by using the year ,make and size of engine by calling Autozone If not they have a Chilton manual for it or can get it

try this site / shows the firing order ..
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/specifications/specificationsMain.jsp?categoryNValue=26299999&categoryNameForTitle=Ignition+(Tune+Up)&categoryName=Ignition+(Tune+Up)#

check alternator output it should be around 13.75 to 14.75 while engine is running with all load turned on. ensure that battery terminal are clean check your battery cable. check voltage drop voltage should not exceed .5 volt. if it is, check if there is a sign that acid intrusion ate up the copper of the cable then replace it as required. if your battery is over 4 years old replace your battery if result of test is okey.

When the fuse keeps blowing, there is only one reason why. That is because there is a short, not because other fuses are missing. For example if the fuse is rated at 10amps, and the wire after the fuse is drawing more than 10 amps it will blow. If for example you put a bulb in series with the wire than is only drawing 2amps the fuse will not blow that is because you have put a load that is less than what the fuse is rated for. One way to trace a short is to start where the fuse is at. Find which is the wire connected to that fuse. one side of the fuse is connected to the battery and the other side goes to whatever device it supply, and there maybe several of them. Note what else do not work beside the turn signal, Most short occur where there is an electronic device. Since your car is an older model, it is unlikely to an electronic device, but a wiring may have been worked on and somehow a hot wire is touching the body of the car. If the fuse blows only when the key is in the on position, then logically you would look at the back where the rear lighting may have been worked on, thats because turn signal are always off when the key is off. If it blows even when the key is off then you know there is something else beside the turn signal that the fuse is connected to that is on even when the key is off such as tail lights because you can turn on the tail light with the ignition off. You get what I mean?

May be the distributor. I had the same prob on a 1978 Ford. Get warm, die, wouldnt start until cooled down. Replaced the distributor, no probs. Not the cap, under the cap.

I guess it runs if you jump it at the starter??? if so, power comes from the ign switch to the trans (neutral start switch, then to the Starter relay, then to the starter. so ck all that wiring an dsee if maybe you knocked something loose, or try to start it in neutral.

change fuel filter