20 Most Recent 1983 Dodge Pickup - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hi,
Did you remove and replace the distributor? If so, it's possible that you installed the new distributor 180 degrees out. Check the location of the rotor and pull the distributor back out and relocate the rotor 180 degrees.
I hope this helps... Good luck!

Check the wires to the senders for grounding Those gauges have a power lead to gauge then to sender. The more the sending unit "grounds" the higher the gauge reading

Starter is mounted to the back of the engine closest to the firewall.. Its cylinder shaped... Turn ignition on ans there are 2 bolts to the side of the starter where wires connect too on the starter itself. Now bridge this will a flat head screw driver.. This will cause the starter to turn if not check your battery... If its still turning slowely bang it with a hammer or something a few times.. It that fails replace it..

Auto Zone sells a can that has a fitting for a filler hose, with 3 ounces of R134 and 8.5 ounces of PAG oil, so you can install it on the low side fitting.
Quest / 8.5 oz. of PAG and 3 oz. of R134a

New coil? New points and condensor (if applicable) If electronic, clean sender and receiver phototransistor and sensor wheel in distributor? Is distributor rotor turning with engine? Make sure you have good electrical connections and solid ground to engine block.

You are on the right path. You gave away the answer when you said you can dry the plugs and then it will start and run for a few seconds before flooding out again.

To solve the problem (there seem to be two of them) do the following:

You need to stop fuel from entering the engine, either disconnect the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump or route the output from the fuel pump to a gas can or back to the tank, just don't let it get to the carb.

Pull the coil wire, pull the plugs and spin the motor over so it can get dried out.
Pulling the coil wire should help reduce the risk of the fuel being blown from the cylinders from somehow getting ignited. BE CAREFULL!!!

Now dry the plugs and put them back in, plug in the coil wire and fire it up. Based on what you have said it sounds like it will probably start up (if only for a second or three). Now pour two or three teaspoons of gasoline into the carb and start it again.

If it starts and then dies that is a good thing. Do the two or three teaspoons and start it two or three times. This will heat up the compression chambers a little and help to dry them out a little better.

Now, at this point it runs fine (well as fine a 2 or 3 teaspoons will run it) as long as it has fuel, air and spark.

Hook up the fuel line again and start it up. One of two things will take place.

1. All is well! Great, it was just REALLY flooded.

2. It runs for about 10 seconds before becoming flooded again.... ****, it sounds like your "new" carb is flooding the engine. Find out how!

Good luck. I have used this "fix" a few times over the years. Normally the engine is REALLY, REALLY, REALLY flooded. Usually because the original problem happened on a hot summer day and the float stuck when the engine was shut off. The heat of the engine boiled the gasoline which in turn flooded the engine. The float stayed stuck when they came back to start it and TA DA.

Several times a little tap on the side of the carb "cured" the problem and a fuel additive was used to clean up the sticky float issue.

In one instance the 4 banger was so flooded we had to snake a hose into the cylinders and **** the fuel out. We must have sucked a quart of fuel out of that little '80 Mustang. We still ended up draining the oil (it smelled like it was full of fuel too) and we spun it over until it quit spraying gasoline all over. Man was that a mess!!!

Check the firewall for a ballast resister. It's a little porcelain thing with either one blade connected wire or two on each side. Held to the firewall with one bolt in the center. Change that, and keep a spare on hand.

the throttle position sensor may be "noisey" causing computer to think your are accel. that unlocks the torque conveter. try a new one
also make sure the brake lights on coming on and off when driving that will do it to.

Jack it up securely,take off hubcap,remove tire,remove bolts oh outside of hub,pull out axle and let oil drain, chisel down lock ring,remove nut,remove,locking device,remove second nut.Try to pull it off,If it will not come off you may need to release rear brakes.It should come off easily! Good Luck!

Its possible that this wiring diagrams helped...

Fig. : Engine controls and body wiring-1975-78 100/150/200/300 Pickups, Ramcharger and Trail Duster





Fig. : Body wiring-1975-78 100/150/200/300 Pickups, Ramcharger and Trail Duster



Hope help with this.

its probly a 318 it will be stamped on the drivers side on the block!!

Ballest resistor is bad

two on front of motor on ether side of water pump.two on passenger side two on driver side and two on back of engine behind transmission. 8 total

third-to-foufth shift malfunction

sometimes the emergency brake will stick even after it is released. Most drum brakes will still let it go backwards but not forward. I would pull the rear drums and check. If e/brake is stuck removing the left drum will be difficult. If so then you will have to manually adjust the brakes until drum loosens up. good luck

The starter solenoid is bad.

2 seperate problems . manifold gasket, and a blocked radiator , check for water in the oil,though i think it will be partial blockage of the radiator

The firing order should be stamped on the intake manifold. The firing order for V6 is:

1-6-5-4-3-2

check alternator output it should be around 13.75 to 14.75 while engine is running with all load turned on. ensure that battery terminal are clean check your battery cable. check voltage drop voltage should not exceed .5 volt. if it is, check if there is a sign that acid intrusion ate up the copper of the cable then replace it as required. if your battery is over 4 years old replace your battery if result of test is okey.