20 Most Recent 1987 Dodge D150 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Check grounds.

I assume you checked the battery out already?

5.2L and 5.9L Engines
It is necessary to remove the oil pan, and to remove the oil pump from the rear main bearing cap to service the oil pump.

1. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan.
2. Remove the oil pump mounting bolts and remove the oil pump from the rear main bearing cap.

To install:

1. Install the pump and tighten the cover bolts to 95 inch lbs. (11 Nm).
2. Prime the oil pump before installation by filling the rotor cavity with engine oil. Install the oil pump on the engine and tighten attaching bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
3. Install the oil pan.
4. Fill the engine with the proper grade motor oil. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Assuming you have the vehicle raised and the wheel removed, your next move is to uninstall the brake caliper. To do this, you need to push the caliper piston back into its cylinder, which is best accomplished while still in place. I use a large C-clamp that will span the caliper and push onto the outer brake pad. You can also use long-handle pliers and use a 1/2" or so socket to push on the brake pad. Once the caliper is off, hang it carefully out of the way so it doesn't hang on the hose. Now you are looking at the rotor. If it's stuck in place get some penetrating oil around the inner circle where it contacts the hub. If you are replacing the rotor, get some eye protection on and hammer away on the rotor til it's off, but if you need to save the rotor, then gentler persuasion if recommended. Hope that gets you unstuck. Upon reassembly be sure to get some brake cleaner spray and lots of paper towels to clean up the rotor and pads prior to installing the wheel.

Always test drive it. Not only do you get a feel of the handling and the suspension but you get to feel the engine performance. Look out for signs such as noises, smoke, loss of power or anything out of the ordinary.

Apart from the looks, check the truck's body for damages. As much as possible get the one which has not been into any major accidents. Knock on the body. You should hear the metal sound. Otherwise it could be filler which means a repair has been made. Look at the paint if it is still the original paint. A change in paint may mean a repair was made.

Look at underneath the car for rust especially at the wheel wells. This is a potential cost in the future.

Look at the mileage of the car. On an average a car travels 15000 miles a year. Check if the car year adds up. If it is too high then you have to worry about possible repair costs in the future. If it is too low, either the dashboard has been replaced or the car has been stuck for awhile.

Check the paper works. Not only will it validate the ownership but documentation of the repairs will give clues on how well the car has been taken care off.

Seal to what. Request live assistamce.

Sounds like transmission is low on fluid or transmission is worn out or both.It may need a rebuild.Check tranny fluid, if its low and looks brownish in color or smells burnt it will need to be rebuilt.

sounds like the starter is bad, try tapping on it with a hammer usually that will get it going. note this is a temporary fix it will need to be replaced or rebuilt.

Before you did the lamp change you could have measured the voltage at the point of brake application. Now if present then check if the rear lamp assembly gets the ground connection.
if absent the brake light switch is faulty. Check the voltage at the switch point.
Also check the brake lamp fuse on the fuse box under the dashboard.

what year, make , model and engine?

You didnt state your engine size so i am sending all vaccuum diagrams for all engines for this year.

Fig. Fig. 49: 1988 238-all applications .

Fig. Fig. 50: 1988 318-all applications .

Fig. Fig. 51: 1988 360 light duty-Federal and Canada.

Fig. Fig. 52: 1988 360-California.

Fig. Fig. 53: 1988 360 heavy duty-Federal .

Fig. Fig. 54: 1988 360 heavy duty-Canada .IF YOU CANT SEE THESE REAL GOOD,GO TO AUTOZONE.COM,AT TOP RIGHT,CLICK ON BECOME A MEMBER,ITS FREE,ENTER INFO,THEN YOU ARE A MEMBER AND CAN USE THERE REPAIR GUIDES LIKE ME,ENTER YOUR VEHICLES INFO.,YEAR MAKE,MODEL,AND ENGINE THEN CLICK ON EMISSION CONTROLS,THEN CLICK ON VACUUM DIAGRAMS,YOU CAN INLARGE AND PRINT THEM,HOPE THIS HELPS YOU,IF NOT LET ME KNOW.

A bad battery, a bad cable or a bad connection, could all cause this. Don't forget to check the ground side. Check everything for corrosion as bad connections are what kill starters. If there is any green on your positive wire cables there is probably more under the coating.