20 Most Recent 2003 Buick Century - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Some cars have two temperature controls one for the passengers compartment and one for the drivers compartment . You may have one turned to warm or the control for one may be defective On these cars with dual controls you have 2 Blend doors one of the blend doors may be defective.

Go to You Tube Video & watch

Sounds like you might have a bad connection at one of the battery cables, a bad cable end, or maybe even a bad cable itself. Check that the connections to the battery are clean and tight.

Are you sure you are not hearing a popping noise from upper intake and throttle body because of a intake valve burnt or sticking open. Do a compression test on all six cylinders to see which one is low.

Could be any number of problems take car to local parts store (auto zone, Advance Auto, ect) where they can read codes for free. write down what code(s) come up and search online for those to find causes and solutions, most codes have several things that could cause them. If you have several codes they may be related... Start with cheapest fix and work to more expensive. Light needs to be reset after every repair which can also be done at parts store. Light may not come back on for a week or two.

Check EGR valve to make sure their isn't a piece of carbon stuck under valve seat. Also you need to check exhaust back pressure to make sure you don't have a converter pluged.

Could be many things but its most likely a problem with emissions. Take it to AutoZone and they will hook a tech tool to it and it will give them a code that will tell what part may have failed.

Hi Ken, I'm glad to help! A/C Blower problems like your, where the blower only blows on HIGH and later stops working all together is usually the "BLOWER MOTOR RESISTER" That is where I would start. Ken, If that does fix it. I would replace the blower motor as well because its usually the high resister within the motor that actually causes the problem with the resister. The Blower Resister on most vehicles is located on the passenger side near the motor. Some are right beside the motor, others are behind the glove box in the housing. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Ken.

jammed controls dismantile to find cause.

Replace the front bulb

IF you have a manually adjusted seat then check that the wires/cables from the lever to the tracks are still attached . If you have electric adjusted check for power to the motor.

Does it have 12v power to the switch? Is the fuse good? Will the motor run if you jump 12 v to it? Sounds like you are either missing Power + or ground - ...

If the roaring sound get louder at highway speeds try veering side to side in your lane safely of course to see if the roar noise changes,this would indicate a hub & wheel bearing assembly issue and would need to be replaced.

Raise the front of your car off the ground with rear wheels blocked car in neutral spin front tires one side will have a rough grind or you will hear a deep tone that is the bearing that is bad.

hear roaring nose from right front axle

check if done need refrigerant

It sounds like the servoe motor for the door to do that is no good or the switch it's self is no good. You will have to acces the HVAC unit behind the dash to check the problem.If you had a mouse in there he may have built a nest jamming it also.

Firstly run the fault codes to determine if there are any sensors that showing faults. Fix them first . I seldom recommend a tune up on an EFI engine as that is what the ECM and CPU program does every second of the engine/ gear box operation. IF the leads are faulty a misfiring code will come up so replace the HT leads with quality leads and keep them well separated . Plugs will last a long time because the voltage is extreme but the current is rated very low so the plug electrode seldom burns away . In other words if there are no codes showing and it is running well "don't fix what ain't broken"