Top 10 1992 Dodge Caravan Questions & Answers

You will need to remove the triangular panel on the inside of the door on the opposite side of the broken mirror. Once you remove the panel, you will see the retaining bolts holding the mirror in place. Once you remove the bolts, the mirror can then be pulled out from the outside. Reverse the procedure to reinstall the new mirror.

These vehicles seem to have a problematic short, my grandfather has the same vehicle with the same problem, i found the short under the carpet on the driver side of the vehicle, under the gas pedal, sometimes wires can crack and break.

MIKE

Here are a few things you can try to debug the no spark issue. I hope these help you out. 1. Remove the distributor cap and crank the car. If the rotor turns you're ok. If it doesn't turn then that's you're problem and you will probably need to change a timing belt/chain. 2. Check the spark from the ignition coil by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor. Use an alligator clip to attach a short wire to the coil wire contact. Bare the other end of this short wire and set it up so it's sitting very close to the engine block. Turn off the lights and try to start the car. You should see a spark jump from this wire to the block. If you don't see a spark it's likely your ignition module or ignition coil is bad. 3. If you have a spark maybe it's not getting to the plugs. You may need to replace the distributor cap and rotor. You can test if the plugs are sparking by pulling one, re-attaching the spark plug wire and seeing if you get a spark when you try to start the engine in the dark. Please note, the metal threads of the spark plug need to be shorted to the engine block to complete the circuit during this test.

Try this.

I have the '93 shop manual which describes how to do it with the 3.3L and I have the Haynes that covers the 3.3/3.8L for '96-99 and they read about the same. Let me give you the one from the '93 Chrysler shop manual:
1.Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the alternator drive belt
3. Loosen, but do not remove, the nut on the support bracket at the exhaust manifold. (this is on the rear of the engine where the bracket is attached to one of the exhaust manifold studs).
4. Remove the alternator tensioner power steering bracket bolt.
5. Remove the tensioner stud nut and the tensioner.
6. Remove the 2 alternator mounting bolts.
7. Remove and position the power steering reservoir from the alternator mounting bracket. Do not remove the hose from the reservoir.
8. Remove the 3 alternator support bracket bolts.
9. Remove intake plenum-to-alternator mounting bracket bolt
10. Remove alternator support bracket.
11. Position alternator and remove alternator wiring.
12. Remove alternator!
Again this is for the 3.3L and is from the '93 van manual but it appears to apply to the 3.8L as well. Installation is the reverse, tighten the mounting bolts to 40 ft-lbs.

Good luck.

Blown Fuse or fried Circuit board. Take to a local AutoZone, Advance, Murray's, O'reillys or a similar part house for them to check the wiring. I'm assuming the van does not use a mechanical Speedometer or Fuel Gauge.

On the plus side, with no speedometer, your indicated odometer mileage does not increase. Just keep your speed down and your tank full. Kidding, just kidding.

You'll have to take the oil pan off. First drain the oil though. Once the pan is off the oil pump and screen wlill be attatch with a couple of bolts. The the new pump wont come with a new pick up screen. Twist the shaft with your hand to get get it apart. Install it on the the new screen on the pump in the same direction as it come off or it wont set down into the pan. make sure you use a new gasket. Three hours and your done.

This sounds like an issue with your ignition switch. Basically what is happening here is that you are shutting off your vehicle, but the ignition switch is not working correctly and is allowing certain accessories to stay on.

It is not a fuse problem but the automatic shut down relay, it is called the ASD relay for short. If you look under the hood you can ID it from the picture below which shows the relay positions.

Safety Switch Most neutral safety switches are combinations of a neutral safety switch and a backup lamp switch. Others have separate units for these two distinct functions. When the reverse light switch is not part of the neutral safety switch, it seldom needs adjustment, as it is directly activated by the transmission or the gear selector linkage.
Typical location of a neutral safety switch on a transaxle. Reprinted with permission of Ford Motor Company. A neutral safety switch allows current to pass from the starter switch to the starter when the lever is placed in the P or N position. Some neutral safety switches are nonadjustable. If these prevent starting in the P or N position and the gear selector linkage is correctly adjusted, they should be replaced.
To adjust a typical neutral safety switch:

• Place the shift lever in neutral.
• Loosen the attaching bolts for the switch.
• Using the angling pin, move the switch until the pin falls into the hole in its rotor.
• Tighten the attaching bolts.
• Recheck the switch for continuity. If no voltage is present, replace the switch.
• The switch sometimes controls the operation of the back-up lights also. With the engine off and the key on, put the selector in reverse position. Check the back-up lights to see that they are on. Then, check in the drive position to see that they are out.