1986 Chevrolet K1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

hold hte release had have somone pull the cable back form underneath the vehicle, with any luck only the front cable is stuck, if not use lots of penetrating oil to try to free the rear cables,

Please elaborate on what you mean by “single setup”

it is pluged up it could be over flow tube or tranny line

move the top of the wheel inboard or outward. Positive camber is moving the top of the tire inward. Negative camber is moving the tp of the wheel outward. If you have shims add or remove then in pairs front and back. With Struts raise the vehicle till the tires are off the ground. mark the strut at the cam bolt for a reference. Loosen the nuts and move the wheel. The angle changes when the wheel is off the ground.

starter has 2 bolts on the bottom with some shims. There are a few wires one large and 2 small. They are labeled on the solenoid so can be transferred to the new starter. Remember to remove one battery cable.

check the control module in the dist. and the pickup coil in dist to ensure they are good. In addition, check the coil, dist cap and rotor .

Check for vaccum leak and check codes.

Umm unbolt the starter and put in a new one . Disconnect the battery first..

if this truck has EST then the four wire connector at distributor needs to be disconnected and base timing is 6 degrees before top dead center.

The power valve is design to add more fuel when engine vacuum drops below a certain point E.G 4.5 inhg this means the valve is closed until vacuum drop to and below the becomes open to add fuel.

Check mate !!!! Check your vocab in your bonnet and go through your spelling words each night or stick them on your dash board ... Sure not Shure .. So close to home sounds,so familiar .. Listen learn and never assume .. Always keep your services in date as things brake down quiet easily and it's not good when you haven't got your wheels balanced so I wish you luck you might be surprised of how things do fail and I hope nature takes it cause as I'm not the actuator I'm the shimmy shakers last hope but the frizzeld engine has turned to many corners with lost mixed signals and one wheel is never the same as the last wheel .. So unbalanced but quick to move in on a poor old toe that comes with a few rags to clean the messy oil up ..

have a pressure test done on the transmission to determine if there is mechanical failure in side. Remove the pan and do a check of the band and clutch packs as something may have broken . The sudden changing of direction under rpm's will cause damage to the mechanicals in the box.

I have a 1995 GMC SIERRA 4wd ext. cab shortbox, my 4wd panel on the floor does not light up, and my front two are not locking in, any ideas?

Wait till Spring

You will need a trip to the your local parts store. You should be able to buy a brand new lock cylinder for about 15-20 dollars. Tools needed will be a socket set, steering wheel puller, phillips screwdriver, and a set of torques bits and driver. If you pull the steering wheel and unscrew the hazard knob and turn signal arm, then unscrew the turn signal switch you will be able to remove the mounting screw that holds the lock cylinder into the coulmn. install new cylinder and now you have a new key for the truck.

Do you have 12 volts at the large post and at the small wire coming from the key switch when the starter will not turn ?There is a neutral safety switch in the circuit that could have failed.

yes:: has two. one ecm and one spark advance computer..

This is a social web siteNo one here would know thatYou need to ask a trans shop

OK, so check your onboard computer system to find out why the computer is turning the check engine light on, and you will probably find out why your transmission is shifting hard.

loosen the lug nuts, jack it up, put a jack stand under the frame rail, remove the lugs, tire. There are two bolts on the inside of the caliper that hold it onto the the mounting bracket, they usually have large allen head bolts-remove them, remove the cap from the master cylinder (but lay it on top of the reservior to keep the fluid from getting all over the place)-wedge a large flat bladed screwdriver between the inner pad and the rotor and pry them to create some distance (and allow the caliper to come off the rotor). Take the loose caliper and balance it on the upper control arm or somewhere out of the way but take the strain off the caliper hose so it is not damaged. Now you are going to remove the bracket that held the caliper in place-get psyched, because the bolts that hold this bracket on are torqued on big time, you are going to need a long handled breaker bar-I use a short, 4 pound deadblow hammer to wack the end of the breaker bar to get the bolts started. Once you get then off (there are 2 bolts), your rotor is easy to take off, it either slides off the axle or you remove the dust cap, cotter pin, cotter pin retainer, bearing bolt, then the wheel bearing. Rotor comes off next.