Top 20 1981 Chevrolet Corvette - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Replacing the heater core won't affect your freon. R-12 has become a rare bird, and is worth it's weight in gold. There are now synthetic freon that is available that can replace R-12, and can be found at most shops that do A/C work.

Check vacuum hose from modulator back up to Manifold then check vacuum on the manifold. The slightest leak will cause transmission problems. I replaced those hoses the problem was solved.

Yes, you need to remove tank.There is a fuel pump test connector, either a single wire connector in engine compartment, left side, OR terminal G of the ALCL, the diagnostic test connector under the dash. Put battery voltage there and see if pump works.Diagram also shows a fuse for the pump, probably in the dash's fusebox.The relay is probably is there also.

I found layout at: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/1950185-81-fuse-box-diagram.html

You most likely have a smoked fusable link wire. I cannot give you specifics because I cannot look it up on the infomation services I use because it is too old. However, most of the older GM vehicles had several fusable links that connected to the starter solenoid and provided power to the fuse block inside the car as well as the headlamps and some of the engine control circuits.If you do find one burned, you have to figure out what gauge wire is in the fusable link. You can then buy some fusable link wire to match at most auto parts suppliers. DO NOT replace a fusable link with regular wire.

A lot of replacements made in China are cheap but do not meet the exact standards for form, fit and function. Suggest going to GM dealer for parts.

This problem is caused by a burnt out Blower motor speed control resistor. The part is near the Blower motor and is held into the air duct by two small hex head screws. The part is chap and easy to replace.

on a car that old the speedo is most likely mechanical. there is a long cable in a jacket coming out of the end of the transmission which goes into the back of the speedometer. jack the car up and find and unscrew that cable. if it is broken buy a new one at a dealer or parts store. if it is not broken find an old transmission man and find out if there is a replaceable speedo drive gear in the transmission. if not you may be looking around for someone to fix that old speedo. google it i am sure there is someone out there willing to take your money.

could be a bad brake light switch which is mounted near the brake pedal under the dash try adjusting the plunger which contacts the pedal maybe its on going in far enough otherwise replace the brake light switch

Faulty fan relay

you have to bleed system

fuse if not the relay

if you talking about removing pitman arm.you need a pitman arm tool J - 6632 or equivalent.the auto parts store should have one or snap on tools.

Double check all your upper gaskets for a vac leak... spray brake clean around intake surfaces - if idles up you found your vac leak.

1. The observation with your vehicle implies mechanical malfunctions likely caused by insufficient, clogged, or burnout lubrication fluids. Since the component parts experiencing malfunction are observable at significant vehicle areas like power drive trains, several conditions are likely factors to driver's suspicion. For example, the drive train of significant mechanical sprockets linked at joints making propulsion possible with the control lever situated at drivers seating area is significant reason of concern. First, the driver's lever control functions hydraulically as modern improvement made possible with fluid lubrications, and several absorptions chambers. Once, an engineered hydraulic mechanical lever is realized to dispense manual contact requires inspections. First, a mechanical inspection to ascertain the conditions of constutuents providing hydraulic should be made on the vehicle. The possible outcomes include findings of an absence of faulty turbines implying no wear had occurred. Second, the observation findings may ascertain a burnout fluid that may require replacement procedures. For example, burnout hydraulic fluids usually may require cleaning draining, cleaning the residue slug from turbine areas making possible replacement of newer fluids. Hydraulic fluid conditions usually may require resistant variety that performs under overexerted conditions. For example, the fluid type may vary depending on the task requirements of the vehicle. Also, the type of condition expectations of the vehicle would require frequent hydraulic inspections.

First check each wheel brake cylinder for small leaks. If no leaks then the brakes have not been bled properly. Liquid will not compress like air, thus the reason pumping the pedal makes the brake pedal come up. If you had all of the air out of the lines then you pedal would not be soft. With your pedal going to the floor either there is air in the lines or fluid is slowly leaking.If it is a small leak on one of your wheel cylinders, it may be hard to detect without pulling the wheels off and looking. Small leaks on your wheel cylinders may never drip off of the car.

Sounds to me like you have the wrong door pin set but keep in mind that the pin will take some fairly hard "tapping" to seat in the bushing.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/1950185-81-fuse-box-diagram.html

These instructions come from Chilton.
1. Disconnect the battery negative first.
2. Unbolt the A/C compressor and move it out of the way but DO NOT disconnect the lines from the compressor.
3. Remove the coolant resevoir, if you have one.
4. Disconnect the wiring from the motor, and the cooling tube if there is one.
5. Remove the mounting screws from the motor and pull it out. If it sticks because it is attached with a sealer, then pry GENTLY against the case to remove the motor.
6. Installation is the reverse.
These instructions are only good for 80-82 models. Hope this helps.

yes, there is a relay, but it's part of the anti-theft system. See diagram below.