I HAVE JUST BOUGHT A GM 5.0LG SGI ENGINE, WITH REAR NUMBERS ON BELL HOUSING # 14093627. but the numbers on the stamp deck in on left side just below head is # V1014TBA . i cant tell if this is a truck engine or a camaro engine. ( will this work in my 88 truck) ? or will it be too weak? thank you for your time
Posted by nick... on
site i use for casting numbers is down at the moment
far as if a camaro motor would work in your truck yes small blocks between trucks and cars the same
there are 2- bolt main blocks
and there are 4-bolt main blocks
2 and 4 bolts are used in cars
and 2 and 4 bolts are used in trucks
main differance between truck motors and car motors are the add ons intake exhaust manifolds
heads the blocks them self are the same
trucks are usally geared lower but that in the tranny and rear end not in the motor
soon as my site comes back up i look up your number for u and give u link to site as well
Posted on Nov 22, 2010
Speedometer works but odometer doesn't
Posted by Gary Gary on
they are spring loaded and mechanical. if a spring wears out or breaks it won't work. you can replace it with another one but the actual miles won't be there or you could go with a digital set.
Posted on Jul 13, 2012
Fuel pump fuse location on an 88 Chevy K1500? The fuel pump is fine but doesn't run through the truck's electrical system. I replaced the fuel pump relay with a new one which didn't solve anything. I was wondering if this relay had a fuse or fuseable link that carried the current to it. I'm opened to suggestions. Thanks!
Good evening Michael.
The fuse you are looking for is behind the plastic cover on the firewall on the right side. It may be a little disguised in a fuse holder. It is very near the battery junction box pins and fuse links. It's a 10 amp fuse and it supplies power to the relay for the fuel pump.
Hope this cures your problem.
Thank you for using FixYa!
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
firing order 1988 chevy 350 my kid changed wires on my truck and mest up
1988 Chevrolet K 1500 P/U 5.0 liter V-8 VIN "H"
Posted on Oct 29, 2010
I have a 1988 chevy silverado and the brake light stays on all the time real bright when emergency brake is on but dull when it is off what causes this
Posted by thedonahos on
check ground wire for rear tail lights left rear on main chasis their is a plug fing the ground
Posted on Feb 16, 2012
my injectors have no power going to them. i just replaced fuel pump and relay. i have fuel going to my 350 tbi but nothing coming out the injectors.it wont start and i have no power at the injector so i dont know if its the ecm or what
Posted by muddog_32 on
my injectors have no power ging to them. i just replaced fuel pump and relay. i have fuel going to my 350 tbi but nothing coming out the injectors. it wont start and i have no power at the injector so i dont know if its the ecm or what
Posted on Dec 20, 2009
I have a 1988 chevy 1 ton and the ECM fuse keeps blowing out. I put a 1999 gas tank and fuel filter in the truck. the truck ran well for about 25 miles or so, but now the fuse keeps going out. What do I do?
Posted by jasonm99 on
check the wiring to fuel tank something shorting. replace wires to fuel tank.
Posted on Apr 09, 2009
i need a brake light wiring diagram for the 88 chevy k1500, 4x4, the wires were cut, the truck sat, all is rusted and unrecognizable.
Posted by jfritz22 on
got a 88 chevy 1500 4x4, new bulbs & new fuse but no brake lights?
Posted on Jun 20, 2011
need the fuse box diagram for a 1988 chevy cheyenne truck
Posted by Toni Toni on
soft, squishy brake pedal after bleeding the brakes on my 88' chevy 1/2 ton.I put new calipers in the front, and there are no leaks. what could cause this?
soft, squishy is air. I know you said that you bled the brakes, but i have had this time and time again, and until i have physically seen someone attempt to bleed the brakes i know why...........
let me give you a hint that i do, forget the one man bleeding kits, they are good for what they are designed for, trying to do everything yourself, which you cant...sometimes you need other peoples help.
1. open the farther most bleed nipple, and pump SLOWLY 4-5 times, close nipple on last down stroke.
2. assistant pump up the brakes
3. as assistant holds pedal, release bleed nipple, and before he/she gets to full travel, close the nipple (this will prevent air entry- as it acts like a vaccuum)
4. repeat 3-4 times
5. do the same at opposite end, working your way to the bleed nipple thats closest to the master cylinder.
NOTE : I am assuming that nothng was wrong with the brakes before-hand
Posted on Jun 11, 2010
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