20 Most Recent 1988 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

In the dash to the left of the steering wheel.There is a fuse panel that you pull off.It should be marked 4wd.

i dont have any classic car diagrams in my auto book sorry

Is the filter on the firewall? If it is , there is a valve at the bottom of the fuel filter that can come loose. If this is not the problem then the rubbers on the back of the filter are probably bad. Replace filter. Any auto parts store will carry these filters. When you put the new one on ( they just push on ) unplug purple wire on top front of engine. Loosen valve on fuel filter and crank engine in short bursts until fuel comes out of filter. Tighten valve, plug purple wire back in and start engine.
Good luck

Changing the spark plugs may help. If not, I would get it checked out. It may be time for an engine tuning.

The distributor rotor just slides on the distributor shaft with no screws or hold downs on it.

check tail plug wiring- factory installed even if you don't use it- can be shorted and cause simular problems

remove dist cap and rotor, under the rotor there is a control module (its about 1/4" tall, 1" wide, and 2-2 1/2" long) remove the module and take it to a parts store and have it tested. If its bad replace it and put dist back together and try starting it again. if thats not it then have coil check. Oh ya before you take anything apart disconect battery.

Welcome to Fixya

First thing to check are the fuse of your power door/windows if both are ok. If both are ok, check the power window motor mechanism if is is responding. Run a wire from the positive ground and bypass the power window switch. If mechanism will respond, then you a problem with the switch. Same thing for the power locks. Test the actuator if it is responding.

Let me know if you have further questions.

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If your car is a gas powered V8 or V6 it is fairly straight forward. If your car is one of the few diesels, I can't help you.

I'll assume it is a gas engine

The fuel pump is located near the front of the engine on either the left or right side near the large lower pulley. It is most likely located on the passengers side. The will be two lines attached to the pump. One is the feed line from the fuel tank and the other is the line that goes to the carburetor. You need to remove those lines before going any further. The supply line will most likely be attached to the pump by a short piece of rubber fuel line. Just loosen the clamp on the pump side of the hose and pull the hose of the pump. The supply line that goes up to the carb is most likely metal. To loosen the metal line at the pump takes a bit more patience. The fittings that are used on these lines are fairly soft and can be deformed or ruined by using the wrong wrench or by trying to use vice grips. The proper wrench you will need is called a flare nut wrench. That wrench grips the fitting on four side and prevents the wrench from slipping and rounding off the fitting.

Once you have removed the lines you can remove the pump itself. The pump is held onto the engine by two bolts. If the bolts are difficult to remove, spray some penetrating oil such as BP Blaster onto the bolts and let sit for a while. Most of the time these bolts will come out without too much of a fight. Once you have removed the bolts, the pump will pull out from the engine. You will see a long "pump handle" type of a lever that is attached to the pump. That lever is what runs the pump. That lever is driven off of the camshaft inside the engine.

Once you pull the pump out, you will need to clean the area off of any grease and dirt and scrape any old gasket material that may be stuck to the engine.

To reinstall your pump make sure the area is now clean and don't forget to put on the new gasket that should come with the new pump. Just slide the gasket over the long pump handle and line up the holes in the gasket with the bolt holes in the pump and then slide the pump into the engine.

Then you can reinstall the two bolts and tighten to about 25 footpounds. If you don't have a torque wrench, just tighten down rather snuggly. You dont want to overtighten as this may warp or crack the new pump and cause an oil or gas leak. Once you tighten down the new pump, you can reinstall the lines. Make sure that when you reinstall the metal line that you dont crossthread the fitting. The fitting should thread into the new pump easily by hand and then you will tighten it up using the flare nut wrench. The rubber line is then slid on to the new pump and then you tighten the clamp.

Once you are satisfied that everything is tightened down, start the car and check for leaks.

I hope this helps!!

Did you loosen an injector line to see if you are getting fuel to the cylinder? Did you bleed the filter when you changed it? Was the rebuilt pump properly timed when it was installed? Are you sure all the air was bled out of the system after the pump and filter were changed? Do you have air bubbles in the fuel return line?
A copy of Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual, part #10330 ($20) could prove to be invaluable to help you track this down. It has excellent coverage of GM 6.2 and 6.5 engines. Hope this helps.

This is the high pressure switch.You will need to recover the system to replace it.Usually held in by a c-clip.You should be able to get the switch from the dealership.You might be able to get it from a parts store also.But I think your best bet is the dealership or where ever you had your system retrofitted from.This switch detects the high pressure side and if the pressure gets to high it will shut off your system to protect the compressor.Hope this helps and let me know if you have any more questions.Good luck.

yes. it is not directly connected to the gas side of the A/C system you can remove the wiring harness with out worry of refrigerant discharge.

You have an HEI distributor, so the coil is in the cap-to see if you are getting spark, you should be able to check it by removing ANY plug wire, and install a screw drive into the end that goes on to a plug-hole the metal shaft close to the engine and have someone crank the starter-if you see a spark (hold it close to metal) your coil is functoning.

no spark, spark advance's are not connected or bad timeing is my guess. take a plug wire off put a spare spark plug in it ground it to the engine an turn the truck over, should have a blue snapping spark (may need a second person to help). the spark advances are located on the back of the throttle body looks like 2 vacume hoses check to see if those are connected, if theres no spark check the ignition coil

could just need a simple oil change, an depending on how many miles are on this engine it could just be over worked. the 5.7 350s that came in these trucks ran forever but unfortunatly would start burning oil an have a loss of power

Don't trust your gas gauge.

first we will start will the fuel gauge most likely you are correct chevys and 1995 and older jeep wranglers had this problem the sending units failed very commonly. you could have possibly gotton another bad cluster but most likely the speed sensor has worn out. it has a plastic gear being turned by a metal gear and is located near the tail of the transmission. hope this helps

Hello Nummy.

If you have spark at the coil the module is OK. The module fires the coil.
Your problem then becomes the ignition wires, the distributor cap or the rotor.
These are the items that carry the high voltage to the spark plug.
There is also the possibility the spark is jumping off at the coil itself when all is hooked up.
This happens because the resistance increases through the wiring and jumping the gap at the spark plugs.
I hope your repair goes well. Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

i am not sure but i think you have an electric motor on your front axel that engages the 4 wheel drive. check that to make sure it is engaging. a haynes manual would really help you out with this.you can get one at most parts houses for around 15 bucks.

Could be a faulty bulb. I have seen this happen before. It drove me crazy, and I laughed when I discovered how simple the problem was! The bulb was shorted internally (somehow one of the metal legs that hold the filament had melted and went to ground). Pull out all the bulbs, and see if the problem still exists.