20 Most Recent 2003 Chevrolet Suburban - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Most are under the hood in the fuse box on the drivers side. Also check and make sure the window lock is not engaged on the drivers door window controls.

It's easy ! Disconnect the electrical connector , un bolt it . Removal Procedure Notice: Handle the electronic throttle control components carefully. Use cleanliness in order to prevent damage. Do not drop the electronic throttle control components. Do not roughly handle the electronic throttle control components. Do not immerse the electronic throttle control components in cleaning solvents of any type. Remove the connector position assurance (CPA) retainer. Disconnect the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor electrical connector. Reposition the carpet to access the lower nut. Remove the accelerator pedal nuts. Remove the accelerator pedal assembly.

Have you checked the computer for trouble codes ?

they usually just need levering out , get a piece of cloth or similar to protect the dash then work around vent with a mid size flat blade screwdriver and out it comes

Your heater core may be leaking.

If the vehicle has more than 90,000 miles on it the transmission should be rebuilt. Chevy used the 4l60E transmission in Suburbans and it is not quite strong enough.A good rebuild will change all clutchs and plates along with the sun gear and cage.Also all electronic modules.I had mine rebuilt at 125,000 and afterwards pu an additional 200,000 on it without any slippage.

PCM 1 15A Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Mass Air Flow (MFS) Sensor, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid, Fuel Composition Sensor, Secondary Fuel Pump Relay ( with dual tanks)

The horn fuse should be under the hood near the battery on the drivers side firewall. There is also a horn relay in the same area. Try to locate the relay, it may be the cause. Hope this helps.

FLUID IS cooking ,, get to a repair shop

The most likely failure point is the driver heated seat elements. They probably have excessive resistance and once they warm up a little they short out the module and it defaults to not working. I would recommend replacing both upper and lower driver seat elements.

Codes help, but it could be a wheel bearing.

If you just have a light on the dash on go to autozone and they will extract the codes and tell you what's wrong before spending money where you don't have to! If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/james_8f14c50d9c6cdea8

disconnect batt fora min or unplug computer and clean the pins--see if problem clears--if not take out cluster and bring it to napa

When batteries get old, they don't take a full charge anymore. That's one way to know the battery has gone bad.

take battery out and take it to a auto parts store have it tested if its good then its an alternator problem sometimes its wire connections you can look up alternator to see what it looks like then go out and buy a can of wd40 and spray it on the electrical contacts you can reply me [email protected]

On the firewall in the engine compartment,above the heater on the passenger side.

gm dex-cool - part number 12346290 or dex-cool approved replacement.

near gas tank on the fuel line- its about 3-5 inches long - has two nuts

These units draw a fair amount of current, and may have a square metal circuit breaker in the fuse box instead of a fuse. When they draw too much current, the breaker kicks out, then cools and re-sets. Try unplugging every plug in connector in the circuit and cleaning with spray electrical contact cleaner. Also remove the breaker and clean its contacts. Still no better? Try replacing the breaker as they can get trigger happy.

Is that a dealer payment device?