2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I think one of the autozone rapair guide have th prosses. Check there to see if they have it.

if the horn itself works there is a few things to check, the first is the cheapest, you take off the horn cover and there is a a thin round connector if it is out of the hole push it in and give a slight turn clock wise to lock it in place, also check to see if the relay works, when you press the horn you should hear it click.

Hi, I cannot get you a free manual, but here is the schematic showing there is no cutoff switch.

Look at where it goes into the column. There will be a pin. Use a drift punch from the bottom going up and tap that pin out. Then the lever pulls out and you will see a taper on the end of it. That is what locks it into place as you let go of the lever.
When inserting, you just need to wiggle it around a bit so it makes it past the spring inside the cup and it will go back into place. The spring usually stays in it place.
So simple a caveman can do it.

THE SPONGE WHEN NEW WAS DRY AND SOFT nOW THAT IT IS OLD THE HAVE DETERIORATED. THEY ARE USED TO KEEP THE VENTS IN PLACE AFTER YOU ADJUST THEM TO WERE YOU DIRECT THE VENT ANGLE

I am talking a guess on the year.. but there is a silver cannister located on the passenger side of the engine compartment near the firewall.. This is the drier or accumulator.. There should be a switch on the side that has a plug and 2 wires.. This is the low pressure cutout for your ac unit. this is a common cause of the ac compressor not running. You can test the compressor by removing the plug and installing a paper clip. This will bypass the low pressure interlock switch.. This will allow you to see if the compressors runs... Its not something that you want to leave it full time...Good Luck..

therer should be a very slight movement when u pull in and out, but the clunking sounds like something in the rearend. it could possible be a bad spider gear

These specs should be in the shop manuals or your local AutoZone can provide these torque values.

coil-pack could have gone bad its replace-able auto parts should have them..

HI, if you mean your brake lights, the only reazon sould be the brake fuses, hope this helps...

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WARNING! I'm sometimes accused of not giving short answers. However, my philosophy is that too much is better than too little.

Still with me?

This is how your problem is researched in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel pressure regulator or water in the fuel tank.

My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is located under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket. However, you must remember that these are nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions at this preliminary stage.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start. The fuel pressure regulator has screen that can be removed with a small pick if it is dirty and appears to be clogged. Removing the screen will not affect the operation of the regulator.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.


Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan - borrowed from AutoZone - is needed to identify any system trouble. Use this easy-to-use simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.


NOTE: Scan the system again after the vehicle is running. The reason is that non-related codes can be detected after the engine is running because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner

All the best

Ben

• You want to make sure to remove the connectors off the horn and test them for power when the horn is tested. You may need to remove the headlight and parking lights out to do this. The horns do go bad. If there is power but no horn honking then replace the horn. now you do have two horns. One for the alarm. But they both will blow when you hit the horn.
• The fuse is in slot 29 and is a 15 Amp fuse and there is also have a horn relay in the panel box under the hood. I think it is the far bottom towards the middle. You can flip the lid of the panel over and there is a diagram there so you can confirm.

• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYA.

Regards, Tony

more than likely

It is held in with a bolt. You need to remove the steering wheel, lock plate, and turn signal switch to gain access. You will need special puller for the steering wheel and a special tool for removing the lock plate.

So far so good. The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The #1 wire goes in the distributor at the 6:30 o'clock position and the rest of the wires go clockwise from there according to the firing order. The 6:30 position should be the first one to the right of the window on the cap. Hope this helps.

take it to a dealer, have them test the remote to make sure it is transmitting. if not replace the battery, they are cheap at walmart. if the remote is transmitting the dealer can program the car's receiver to recognize the transmitter. costs about 15 bucks unless you have it done in conjunction with some other service then it can be free.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. Are there any apparent break problems as of now? When the light comes on?

the play in the rear end is called back lash, there is to much clearance between the ring gear and the pinion gear the only way to take care of this is to tear down the rear end and change the pinion bearings and shims, but before i went to all that trouble make sure the play is not in the rear u-joint. remove the drive shaft and check the full movement in the joint.

let me know if there is any thing else i can do for you.