Very unlikely, I flashing CEL usually indicates one of 2 things. Either 1-the issue is happening right now or 2- it is doing damage to the catalytic converter. Usually it is a combination between the 2. What are the codes the vehicle has stored in the computer?
The engine cooling fan system consists of 2 electrical cooling fans and 3 fan relays. The relays are arranged in a series/parallel configuration that allows the powertrain control module (PCM) to operate both fans together at low or high speeds. The cooling fans and fan relays receive battery positive voltage from the underhood fuse block.
During low speed operation, the PCM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the low speed fan relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from the low fan fuse through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the left cooling fan. The ground path for the left cooling fan is through the cooling fan s/p relay and the right cooling fan. The result is a series circuit with both fans running at low speed.
During high speed operation the PCM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. After a 3 second delay, the PCM supplies a ground path for the high speed fan relay and the cooling fan s/p relay through the high speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan s/p relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and provides a ground path for the left cooling fan. At the same time the high speed fan relay coil is energized closing the relay contacts and provides battery positive voltage from the high fan fuse on the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the right cooling fan. During high speed fan operation, both engine cooling fans have there own ground path. The result is a parallel circuit with both fans running at high speed.
Your best bet would be to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop !
Relay Driven Dual Cooling Fan Diagnostics
This happens when the vacuum in the manifold is at maximum and the air is drawn down past the valve stems into the combustion chamber. IT takes oil with it and so when you increase the RPM's ( moving off at lights)the burnt oil in the exhaust is expelled as a cloud of smoke . The fix here is to replace the valve stem seals that have gone hard/cracked and are no longer sealing on the valve stems
The fact that the service 4wd light comes on is good. That gives us something to go on. Did you have the 4wd trouble codes retreaved? If you tell us what the codes are we can go from there
You won't want to get a new one, it isn't economic. Try a motor wreckers which specializes in this model, and swap springs if needed. You could also try a motor trimmer, but I think he will send you to the motor wreckers again.
Now a trick. If you have all the pieces, it is possible to tack weld them together again. Any competent stick welder can do this. The springs may again break in a while, but it is worth a try.
GOT SAME PROBLEM CHEVY DAURMAX DEISEL HD 2500 CHANGE FUEL FILTER AND OIL &OIL FILTER . WHEN YOU COME TO A STOP SIGN OR RED LIGHT IT HAPPENS .I PUT IT IN NEUTRAL AND PUMP ON GAS SO RPM'S STAY AT 1800 RPM'S
i wonder if you mean abs light i f so loosen and re tighten .often no contact makes the abs light come on .other wise release emergency brake perhaps the peddle got pushes a couple of clicks enough to make light come on but not enough to look like it is applied.try emergency brake first push then release with handle.you wouldnt beleive how many people this happenes to .
Did you just need to tell someone or was there a question I failed to see here?You can go to most any junk yard and pick your own replacement. Some places don't let you go get your own part, so take a pic of the damaged part in your rig and show them what you are looking for. It should be the same part from most Chevy/GMC trucks from 1990-2001
sounds like a fuel sending unit issue from your description.see if this fits the bill.Link Here!!that is for the 2001 - 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 Fuel Tank Sending Unit for V8 8.1Lgood luck.by the way the issue may be one or more things to be honest. the fuel in the tank may be moving around and as it shushes from side to side the electrical resistance in the variable potentiometer of the fuel sending unit will either increase or decrease.an example would be a full tank of gas will cause a floater attached to a lever to float to the top of the gas tank. now as the gas gets lower the level wil drop and so will the float. now remember it's attached to a pot so as it moves it's electrical value decreases. and the gas gauge reads the value as a fuel level.if the gauge dose not move when the vehicle is idle then id say it;s just the gas moving around within the tank. it's worth a shot to test this before spending any money on it.good luck.
Even though there is still 100 psi in the system, it may not be enough "freon" to allow the system to operate, if there's a slow leak.
The first thing I would check would be the fuse for the A/C.
If the fuse is OK, the next step would be to put a temporary jumper wire across the terminals at the pressure switch on the reciever/dryer. This is the "can" shaped aluminum tank on the passenger side firewall, ,it will have the larger aluminum A/C lines leading to it. On the side there will be a sensor/switch with 2 wires leading to it. Unhook the clip, and take a small piece of wire, strip the ends, and make a connection between each of the wires in the clip. This should turn on the electric clutch on the A/C compressor
The radio and clock get power from the battery for memory thru a different fuse than the radio fuse. Sometimes this is thru the cig lighter circuit.You might want to look at all of the fuses.Could be a problem inside the radio too.
take it to a shop if your not handy . the trans range sensor is on the linkage side of tranny .you need a 15mm and a 8mm wrench to change it .it has markes that line up when the transmssion is in neutral. good luck .also make sure your linkage isnt loose and wore out first. the part is about 45 bucks.
If it is necessary to remove the heater assembly, the cooling system must be drained before removing the heater core.
When a heater core leaks, a new heater core is installed or the old one repaired. Heater Housing
The heater housing is usually under the dash and must be removed to gain access to the heater core.
Procedures for replacing the heater core vary with the year, make, and model of car. It threfore necessary to consult the manufacturer's repair manuals for the proper procedure for replacement.
The heater housing is disassembled to get to the heater core.
Heater Core
Remove the access panels(s) or the split heater/air conditioning case to gain acess to the heater core.
Remove the heater coolant hoses.
Remove the cable and/or vacuum control lines (if equipped).
Remove the heater core securing brackets and/or clamps.
Lift the core from the case. Do not use force. Take care not to damage the fins of the heater core when removing.
To reinstall the heater core, reverse the removal steps.
When the heater core leaks and must be repaired or replaced, it is a very difficult and time-consuming job primarily because of the core's location deep within the firewall of the car. For this reason always leak test a replacement heater core before installation.
The heater housing is disassembled to get to the heater core.
Heater Core 
