20 Most Recent 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

It's a Speed sensor erratic, on the rear of your truck.

ric, I was just going to post about this problem. I was getting ready to leave in my Silverado and something just didn't feel right, I can't explain it, but I started out any how. I made it about one half of a mile and it died. It was snowing and way cold, so I walked home, got the car and when I was on my way to Lowes with my Father in law, we pulled it home. I waited for the snow to go away and popped the hood and just looked at it. I went with my gut and it was the same problem I have had with it for years. I removed the distributor cap, (do we still call it that)? any how, I cleaned all the contacts, took the pick up out and cleaned it too. I used a wire brush, and cleaned it out with compressed air. Fired right up. I have again had this problem for years, and have tried many different brands, I think now I'm gonna try a performance cap. What can I lose? I hope this helps.

cabin air filter is under the golve compartment or under the cowl vent cover / Please rate my response thank you very much

you have to do an automated bleed with a scan tool.There is a section in the scan tool to do such a task.

dash lights come on with the light switch so if you turn off the lights and the dash lights are still on then the problem will be in the switch or if you have auto lights then the problem maybe in the auto module.

CORDS GO BAD OFTEN

is clutch pedal hydraulic or mechanical.. may need adjusted..or shift sycronizer may be stiff..look at gear oil in the manual transmission box.. change if contaminated..

clogged heater hoses, check where they connect to engine for clogs

Fuel filter clogged, weak or faulty fuel pump. Have fuel pressure checked, if its ok, then check igniton coil or module.

You left out a lot of needed information but I will try to help out.
You can pull the spark plug wires off one by one while the engine is running to see if you have one or more cylinders are not firing. Depending on how long it has been I would do a tune-up first, replace spark plugs and wires, filters, fluids etc.
With that done and if all cylinders are firing pull the transmission dip stick and look at the fluid, I am assuming you have an automatic tranny. The fluid should be a light red, if it is brownish and has a burnt smell then you could have a problem with the clutches inside your transmission which can cause this same problem.
Good Luck.

Okay, the window circuit in your truck is different from most power window circuits, in that the master switch provides battery positive power to the driver's window and only provides grounds for the relays that control the passenger window. The master switch is probably not getting the battery power needed to operate the driver's window. Since both windows are supplied battery voltage from the same self-resetting breaker - and the passenger window works, then the breaker is good. The next step is to check for battery voltage at the DARK GREEN wire at the driver's door switch on pin "F". I'm not really a betting man, but I would wager that there is no power there. If you find that battery voltage is not present at the switch, the MOST LIKELY cause would be that the DARK GREEN wire is broken inside the umbilical between the body and the door. The proper way to fix this is to remove the wiring harness from the door and disassemble it to access the wires. This way, it can be put back as close as possible to original. Some mechanics are not willing go through all of this and will cut the umbilical. (Rubber protection sleeve) This can get your window to work, but leaves the wires exposed for future damage. I personally don't recommend this. It takes a lot more time and effort to do this correctly, but in the long-run it is worth it.

Please also review this article: What Else Could Be Wrong?

check catalytic converter and vacuum leaks.

Andrew, simply shorting across the two large starter terminals makes the starter spin but does not pull the solenoid in that engages the starter pinion gear with the fly-wheel ring gear. The large cable that comes from the battery needs to be shorted to the small connector that is usually to the side of the solenoid block, that will then pull the pinion gear forward in to the ring gear then the starter spins, turning the engine. Your original problem could well be just the key.... Do you have a spare key to try ? Even if you do manage to get the engine to spin by the above method the fuel solenoid will also be disabled and the engine just will not fire up. I have come across many key failures in my time as an Auto Electrician. This is the single ellement of the security system that is likely to suffer from abuse (dropping them etc ) The key can be scanned at one of the many retailers with their scanning tool, they may be able to clone the key and make a spare (This is depnding on the make of your vehicle, which you have not stated) Othewise its a dealer you will have to visit and pay dearly for a new set of keys that will also need to be programmed by a tecnician. My advise to anyone who does not have a spare key these days is go and get it cloned before it malfunctions or you loose it.

Do you have a spare Key ? The key is probably the most likely cause of your problem. Shorting the two main terminals of the starter motor will only make the starter spin, to engage the starter with th fly-wheel you need to short the main lead (usually the outer one) with the solenoid terminal (smaller terminal) However this will not energise th fuel solenoid etc that the security system also disables. You should have your key cloned at your local lock smith retailer before it fails all together. I am an auto-electrician and seen this many a time. good luck.

If your engine temperature gauge reads normal, then the heater control (temperature setting) is probably at fault. If the temp gauge remains on COLD, then the thermostat is probably stuck open and needs to be replaced. If the temp is normal do the following: With the truck running (outside, of course), go to the passenger side of the truck and remove the panel that is just under the glove box. Inside that area is the heater core and the controls to operate the hot/cold vents. With a flashlight in hand look in that area as someone moves the temp lever or control from hot to cold. You should see movement of the cable to the heater core. If nothing is noted, check for loose wires, disconnected cable and any vacuum leaks. You may have to replace the heater control unit. On a vehicle of this age, your best bet would be a salvage yard or EBAY... Good Luck and I hope this helps...