20 Most Recent 1996 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

yes it set a code that can be retrieved with a scanner. it could be one of several sensors

yes, They are adjustable on this vehical

check the fuel filter in the carburetor if that doesnt work u probably need a new carburetor

Check to see that both batteries are functioning properly, if you don't have two, just check the one you have, the connections and then the starter relay.

Put a line pressure gauge (or visit a local trans shop) on the pressure test port and go for a drive to verify proper line pressure. Base pressure at idle in P,N,OD should be around 70psi and around 140psi in R. Max line pressure should be at least 190psi at WOT in 1st or 2nd, 225psi is optimum. If base pressure is low, trans or pump is worn out. If max pressure is low, check EPC solenoid. If reverse is slow to engage, and line pressure does not come up to at least 130psi in reverse, replace the boost valve with a Transgo 0.500" boost valve (easy fix in pan)
1-2 shift does not happen at WOT until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Doublecheck by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise
1-2 Shift shudder at WOT; delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift; There's a problem ONLY on the 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Check the yellow spring inside the accum housing for breakage. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced. Easy fix in the pan.
1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: Check TPS for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, replace.
Good luck and suspect the first two problems mentioned above. Thank you for suing fixya

u have to take the steering column apart its located on the bottom

Probably has bad circuit in ignition module. Remove and have checked for free at any major parts supplier. If it checks out, suspect coil.

you can replace the hinge assembly,, believe the hinges are glued but you can get a repair kit for it!

There is an interlock solenoid that may not be actuating to unlock the shifter. The solenoid can be removed.

sounds like either the starter relay is shorting or the wires going to the starter are shorting or touching at the starter

If you have a multimeter then put the negative lead to a good frame ground and the positive lead to the negative battery terminal and set the multimeter to measure 12VDC. With a "parasitic drain" you should be able to see some voltage. Next start by removing then replacing one fuse at a time and when you remove the fuse for the circuit with the drain you should no longer be able to see a voltage reading on the multimeter. Check which system the fuse was for and then isolate which component in the circuit has the problem.

check the rotors make sure there are goo, bleed the brakes of all air

You will need to carefully pry the door back and hit the unlock button with a coat hanger.

Use nylon or other soft wedges to hold the gap while fishing the hanger through.

Easier than most methods.

sounds like fuel pump hit gastank preaty hard if this works fuel is going out

tie rods?

here

Could be as simple as low fluid level in the master cylinder. Check that first and then if it is not low or filling it and making a few starts and stops does not kill the light then stop by your local parts store and they will read your codes for free and tell you what the problem is. Free is good, bad brakes is bad, but hopefully it is just the fluid level.

It all depends on if your model had the sealed beams (one piece) or the capsule style (bulb comes out of back)

If it's sealed, you need H6054 - There should be two to four screws either on the front of the assembly or the back of the assembly that secure the lamp to the body. I can't remember where exactly they are, but if you buy the lamp, you'll see exactly where the screws go into

If it's capsule - you need 9006 for the lows and 9005 for the highs - Pop the hood and remove the cap covering the back of the headlight and you can change it (don't touch the bulbs as getting oil on them will cause them to explode)

Possibly the crank sensor.

A fully charged battery.