20 Most Recent 1999 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Most likely a bearing in rear end. Pinion or wheel bearings. Have a good independent shop install noise sensors located at each bearing location to verify which one it is. Oh yes I'm assuming you have done the obvious check it for proper level of lubrication in the rear end.

Remove access cover behind engine. Remove one bold and rotate using the flex plate.

Are you talking about the Foot Pedal Assembly? Has a couple of bolts attaching it to bottom of dash and the cable running to the rear brakes. Hardest part might be unhooking the cable.

change the transmission. i suggest pull a part.

replace reversing valve

Open up the rear brakes and clean it up in there. Also check to see if your cables are binding. There might be some debris in there that prevents the cables from moving the brake hardware properly.

Depending on your vehicle, if it has a distributor. You may have to change it out completely. It happened to me. Changed everything and that was the last item. Worked after that.

Check the MAF sensor, is it dirty?

You need to have a new key cut using the same blank that fit the truck before. The key blanks have a chip that the computer "reads" to allow the engine to start. There are about 10 different chips. A locksmith or the dealer should be able to read the old key to find the new blank that matches it.

3rd one up right bottom, hope this helps.

It may not be a fuse, but instead a relay (30amp) located in the fuse block INSIDE the engine compartment, not inside the vehicle interior. Relays go bad too though.

You replaced everything. The only thing left to fix would be the wiring. Check for power and grounds first. then start replacing the wires.

It could be a junk switch or it could be bad contacts inside the transfer case motor.. Does the transfer case switch to the selected gears? Everytime? If so, you might try another switch. If it does the same, I would say the motor contacts are bad. Replace the motor if you want the lights, But I personally wouldn't do it until the motor quit switching gears. They're not cheap.

Can be blower motor easy to test --remove it look for imbalance by spinning to check bearing smoothness / freeplay . Hook up ground then use inline fuse connector with lower than fuse panel ## number of fuse -- find power Eg .car battery -- be sure to ground then connect Fan to visually see it spin .. NOW if you have any type of electronic dash mounted controls for heat / air conditioning - most likely electrical issue is in it . you said blower motor does sometimes function - Test wires that plug in to it for power / find groung then probe by test light when in heat mode = switch to air cond mode if fan functions then problem in controls on dash .. if no test light reaction search wires for short or damage .. As FUNNY as it sounds I have pulled mouse nest out of GM heater fans - They access parked vehicle by drain hole inner fender well it drains water from wiper blade / heater vent area .

GM has the RAP system, Retained Accessory Power, locate a wiring diagram, believe there is a relay...

Are any lights on on the dash?? it is a good possibility that its the security system in the car going bad/ failing....this is common in gm's . ive had it happen before.. check out this and see if you think it might help ya... if u have any questions just ask them they r a great service place

its a Lion under your drivers seat.... wish posters would explain things a bit clearer

It sounds as if the climate control temp sensor is bad or may be too much resistance on that circuit. Too much resistance can cause the control head to read the signal wrong.

Look on rock auto they have good prices. And fuel Pumps Aren't usually universal

Check the return diaphragm is not blown it the last thing at the end of the rail.