Top 10 1998 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Questions & Answers

I just did a lower intake reseal on my 98 monte's 3100, it's not tough to do, the biggest part is paying attention to what pushrod came from what position and ensuring they go back to where they came from, not only for wear patterns, but for different lengths on the intake and exhaust push-rods.

I work for a GM dealer in northwest montana, and I can say it's not cheap labor-wise, generally around 6 hours of labor and around 300 in parts...it can add up quick, but when those intakes start leaking oil and coolant, things can go sour quickly...espeically if coolant starts leaking into the engine, not good for bearings.

Dex cool is not the problem with these gaskets leaking, it's common on 3100's, 3400's, 3300's, etc, any motor from that series that has that style of lower intake is prone to the issue, the rubber/plastic/composite will eventually warp, break down, crack, seperate from hot and cold cycles, I've seen it all too many times. Dex cool is the best coolant out there, there's a reason that prestone, peak, zerex can't compete, in fact a few of those blends are blends that are less efficient that Dex that GM decided not to patent. But the Dex patent is due to run out soon to the point everyone can start using dex. One issue with dex is the "gum-up" problem when the mixture is not ideal and the level is left low, but flushing and setting proper mixture (50/50) and level will alleviate this problem.

No sticker on underside of hood or on rad support showing that?

Turn signal switch. With you foot on the brake have someone stand behind the car. Wiggle the turn signal lever and see if the the brake lights flicker.

check the fuses there is a starter fuse, if not check the starter for power at the small wire if no power could be the relay,if you have power at the small wire its the starter that's bad.

ON THE SIDE OF THROTTLE BODY IS THE IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR GENERALLY HELD IN PLACE WITH TWO TORK SCREWS REMOVE SCREWS AND SLIDE OUT OF THROTTLE BODY THERE IS A PLUNGER ON END OF IAC MOTOR CLEAN IT GOOD AND THE SEAT UP IN THE THROTTLE BODY AND RE-INSTALL THIS MAY HELP TO ALLEVIATE SOME OF THE FLUCUATION IN RPM,S CLEANING CAN BE DONE WITH CARB SPRAY AND A OLD TOOTHBRUSH

i'm guessing that your car has approx 130k or more miles on it. these engines are cousin of the old 2.8L V-6, and have a tendency that if you don't constantly monitor you coolant level, or the engine is abused, (hot rodded), that it will crack a block, take it from me, after approx 130k i got a cracked outer water jacket, but it ran perfectly fine and i drove it for another 20k, but got tired of having to add water to the radiator everyday, so i purchased a new engine, put another 150k on it, and now have a blown head gasket..i'm not one to try any type of block sealers as most of them contain solids, (sodium silcates or liquid glass), and it"ll clog up your radiator, and possibly your hearter core,..but my car has 297000miles on it, so what the heck, what do i got to lose..so i purchased a bottle of "Blue Devil" $65 ( supposedly doesnt contain any solids), at Kragen autostore, they didnt stock it on the shelf, they had to go into the back room to find it. Well they told me that you have to follow instructions to the letter, and i thought how hard can it be, but you are supposed to shake it before pouring it in which i had over looked and when i took out the thermostat, i didnt have the rubber seal in properly and lost most of this when i saw it leaking out onto the ground, so i shut it off and just reinstalled the stat real quick and started it back up...i let it idle the full 50 minutes like it said and the vapor stopped coming out and the low coolant light stopped coming on..but when it came time to test drive it i only got 10 miles before the low coolant light came on...so i kept losing about a half pint of coolant and had a slight misfire until the plug burnt of the water. So i still had half a bottle left, and did it again, this time with the heater on full blast like the instructions say to do.. and now im not topping off the radiator anymore and the engine oil is finally starting to go down...now i just got to change the oil out before i spin a bearing...because water isn't a good lubricant!
Check your oil cap or dip stick, if it doesnt look milkly, then you probably only have an external leak. the verdict on Blue Devil is still out, only 150 miles so far without having to add water! and i totally screwed up and didnt follow instuctions. i myself wanted to purchae another "crate" engine like i did back in 97 but they dont stock the 2.8L anymore. if you are going to spend big bucks to get this problem repaired and its a high mileage vehilce, i would ask if they carry replacement engines, not a rebuilt, but a brand new long block crate engine...back in 97 it cost me $1500 for the engine and $800 labor. ran good as new! and i squeezed another 13 years out of it...it sure beats new car payments. be careful of shady mechs when you go into repair timming cover coolant leaks because i pulled a little tab off the gasket so i would have proof that they did the work and not try and pour in any type of block sealer and the guy got real upset when i did that, well i didnt want him working on the car so i just took it to a dealer.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCrUb8AXLvY

Ground connects LAST. Look around there is a positive attachment somewhere, usually under a red plactic cover, that is the positive hook up, negative to some major metal somewhere on the engine...
No smoking during this event, explosion hazard.

Check this diagrams for each engine size...

1998 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 3.1 liter V-6 VIN "M"




1998 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 3.8 liter V-6 VIN "K"




Hope this helps, and remember ask for additional details.

Replace the upstream oxygen sensor or two, if that
is what you have.

The ones closest to the motor

That should have been done at 100,000 miles

You don't need a mechanic to unscew an O2 Sensor

Here you go