20 Most Recent 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Unplug the fuel pump, see what you have.

I will try to help, powell. Your start circuit from battery to ignition switch to starter-and back to battery. You may need to check every thing here, including the grounds, for a loose connection, or just possibly a failing part. If only complaint is intermittent starter action, and no other problems with ignition switch, let's assume switch is good, so battery to ignition switch is good. Now from the switch, a yellow start wire goes to the instrument panel fuse block, to "crank" fuse #8 (10 amp), from there a purple wire goes to the safety switch. If manual it is a clutch pedal position switch (simple on/off switch-when clutch down switch is on). If automatic, purple wire goes to Transmission Range Switch on the transm.-in park or neutral the purple wire has continuity in and out of switch. From that switch, the purple wire goes to the starter relay (under hood fuse-relay center). Now the relay: purple wire in start will energize the relay- wire goes to coil side of relay, and then coil side goes to ground. On relay power side, the power feed is a red wire-and it is the same red wire that initially sends power to the ignition switch. A 40 amp fuse in fuse-relay center sends power to ignition switch, and a splice goes to the starter relay as the power feed for relay. When relay is energized, contacts close, and power is sent from relay to the starter solenoid, again on a purple wire. When solenoid contacts close, starter motor is connected to the big battery cable on the starter. There is your start circuit. try a new or different relay, try a new or test the clutch switch (or transm. range switch). Buy a $5 test light and use it to check where power is lost when starter won't operate. Hold key in start and check if fuse #8 is getting power. Check the safety switch, with key held in start, the purple wire should be hot. Check if relay has a power feed (pull relay out and check terminals) and if relay coil has a power signal in start. Check the relay's coil side ground. If that ground is intermittent, relay won't work. When it won't start, use a test light, you should be able to find it. Good luck.

whwont truck 1986 chevy changed to throttle body start cold without starting fluid?

Could be the Glow plug control module or glow plus them selfs....

code P0303 is a misfire code for cylinder # 3, Possible spark plug, wire/coil or injector problem. P0141, bank1 sensor2, is the upstream oxygen sensor, this code may have been set by the misfire of Cyl #3, the lean condition is being cause by the misfire. Fix the misfire and clear the codes and P0141 should not return. If the vehicle is equipped with Coil over plug system try swapping the coil with any one of the others, test drive and if the misfire code changes to another P0300 code ( P0301, P0302, P0304 etc...) the coil has failed and will need to be replaced.

Unplug the wiring to the sender in the tank, if the gauge drops to zero, then the sender is faulty, if it says on full it's the gauge or the wiring to the gauge is shorting to earth.

A high idle is common with a vacuum leak. Ive done plenty of chevy intake manifold gaskets due to the gasket failing.

you need to replace the temperature sender unit and not the sensor unit which controls the CPU. heck that the wire from the sender unit is not broken and is tight.

The frost plugs that block heaters go in are along the sides of the engine block. About midway up from the bottom of block where the oil pan mates to the top block deck. 3 or 4 on each side, 1 to 2 inch diameter round metal plugs just slightly recessed in the block. Look below the exhaust manifold, behind the exhaust pipe on the block. Frost plugs are easy to punch out as long as you can get to them. Punch in one side, and the other side will start to come out-then grab with pliers or vice grips to remove the plug. When you buy a block heater for your Tahoe, it will come with an instruction sheet, and a diagram of the preferred or recommended frost plug hole to use the heater in. It will also usually show the positioning of the heater element in the block-how to orient the heater into the opening so the element does not touch the block anywhere, but is placed in so the element is exposed in the water jacket of the engine. That make sense? You do not need a sealer, as the block heater has its own O-ring rubber seal. When inserted and tightened down (small wrench or socket, about 3/8 inch or smaller size, do not over tighten-follow sheet instructions), the o-ring should not leak. Be sure and clean that recess well that frost plug was in- get all the rust and scale off with rags or emery cloth (sandpaper). Not hard at all to install a block heater once the frost plug is removed. Getting access to the frost plug is the devil to deal with. If you are unsure, have it installed for you.

may be out of adjustment or solenoid dead..

get an OBDII code reader and check for codes. sounds like fuel management or air intake sensor issues.

Have you ever had maintenance performed on the carburetor? Just sitting still full of gas will cause gummy, sticky accumulations on all of the carburetor parts. A sticky float seems the most likely glitch causing your problem. Have the carb removed, cleaned & inspected top to bottom. If the truck doesn't use a carb, let me know.

I'd check all ur motor mounts, and ur tranny mount. Good luck

check for a loose ground

check fiing order or ignition coils