1996 Chevrolet Caprice Classic - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You are talking about the rubbers right?Depending on how tight the fit of the new rubbers are, you can try the following:1) Power or wind the window down the the bottom. 2) Pull out the rubber guide, starting from the top of the window frame. Pull the rubber upwards and outwards from the two side runners.3) Using silicone spray, lubricate your new rubber and feed it into your window runner guides, pushing it downwards.4) Spray the inside of your new rubber guide, in the window channel. Operate the window upwards, making sure the rubber slips past, beyond the widow and all the way to the bottom of its channel. 5) Secure the rubber all the way around the frame and channel.Tight fit:1) Remove inner door skin.2) Loosen or remove retaining bolts on side window channels.3) Power or turn the window down to its lowest position. 4) Follow the rest of the steps in the first list and re-secure the channel when finished.5) Refit door inner skin.

There are either screws holding it on,Or clips that hold it on,,Remove the arm rest first, There should be two screws hold the arm rest on, The rest is pretty bassic to do, Just use common sence end a lot of (Patience

most likely the window regulators. these make sure the window is pulled and pushed evenly. if this is faulty or damaged then the window will be pulled at an angle. new regulator is probably the easiest option

Raise the front of the car as high as poss with a floor jack and then fill the coolant recovery tank/ bottle to the top, run the engine until it gets hot but do not overheat it, shut it down and let the coolant be pulled into the radiator as it cools, you can also run water over the radiator core to speed up the process. Do not let the recovery tank run dry.

check the coolant temp sensor

Lets see coil pack, spark plug wire, spark plug, and if it is MFI maybe injector, or check injector pulse. If all those are ok, then check the compression in that cylinder, if it is low it will not fire right. Go through normal check out procedures to check each of these pull out the spark plugs, put them back on the end of the wire and check for spark. If these are ok the go on go the injector. If they are not try temporarly swapping spark plug wires with a different coil pack, if the problem follows the wire, then put on new wires. If it does not follow the wire, then the coil pack could be bad, or the signal going to it. If the spark is ok check to see if you have injector pulse signal going to injector. If it is ok replace injector. Hope this helps you.

Most common low on freon,or the low pressure cycling switch,If its beacuse its low you should fix the leak and refill.

put parking block under tire. quick fix. when you get a chance get under car make sure your shift linkage isnt loose. make sure its in park. retighten the nut. if thats not the issue. most ****** shops have free diagnosis. possible bands loose. but if not slipping while driving. get under it and tighten that nut.

Refrigerant is part of the A/C system. You should have special guages to add it to the system to prevent overcharging. There are do it yourself cans available at many stores but it is highly recommended that it be done professionally. If your system needs refrigerant added to it then there is a leak somewhere in the system.

i had tyhe same problem, i took the air intake off compltely changed the air filter, then look at your throttle body which is now visible have another person press the accelerator if the throttle body around inside isnt silver you need to clean that out with throttle body cleaner , like a 10 dollar fix total, plus get an OBD2 and see what the code is thats coming on then address it from there.

HiYou need to check the door switchs.One maybe jammed on or the wiring is shorting to ground.Let me know how you get on and i can give you more information.ThanksJason

Your fuel pump my still be pumping fuel But it my not be pumping with enough force to get it through the carb. I would try replacing the fuel pump.

YOU HAVE A AIR CONDITIONING FILTER ON THE RIGHT SIDE UNDER THE HOOD MAKE SURE ITS SEALED GOOD,,,,I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM I SEALED IT AND THE LEAK STOPED.....HOPE THIS HELPS.

The sensor is on the timing cover behind the harmonic balancer.

you've blown a severe head gasket, check your coolant to see if it has a milky appearance

install new fuel pump then turn key on but do not crank the engine then listen for pump when it stops turn key off then repeat 5 or six time, this will prime the pump and get fuel up to injectors

you need to hook up a diagnostic code retrieving tool to the aldl < assembly line diagnostic link > this is located under the instrument panel on the drivers side, plug the tester into the link, then turn on the ignition key, but do not start the vehicle, the tester will cycle through the computer , and will retrieve any trouble codes that the computer has picked up, once you have recieved the trouble code or codes, write them down, and then turn off the ignition key, and unplug the tester, then compare the codes to the code booklet, and then it will tell you what the code stands for, and then you can check those areas to see what the problem is, also if you do not have a tester, a auto part store will check this for free, hope that this information has helped you.

the steering wheel is defected,, u have to change it

you have to bleed your fuel lines because you got air in the fuel lines.

threre is the ignition fuse,
computer fuse,
sensor fuses,
security system fuse,
could be a short,
replace any blown fuses and if that does not solve the problem -- then use a volt meter to trace out the wires and find where the voltage stops.
if you are still having troubles getting the car to start -- write me back here and I will walk you through the next things to check.

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