20 Most Recent 1995 Chevrolet Lumina - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Have to pull the inside door panel,it just bolts on butcan only get at the bolts fron inside the door

The engine revs at idle are too low under 600 ( 750- 900) and the alternator is not charging. You will be reading around 11.5 volts up to 14.5 volts . You will need 12 v minimum to keep the light off.

Thats sounds alot like your torque converter

95 Chev Luminas have a problem with the combination signal light, light dimmer switch. Found out by holding brake and wiggling switch.

95 chev Luminas have a vacumn line running to a vacumn accumilator under driver side front fender liner that runs up to the firewall before running to switch. These are real bad about breaking. Run into this a lot.

Check the headlight dimmer switch. 95 Luminas have a bad problem with this. Rest of the lights work but not brakes. Try holding brakes and wiggling signal light switch & see if brake light works, if so you need to have switch replaced

Most problems of this type have been traced to the headlight dimmer switch. Have the exact same problem with mine. When I hold the brake and wiggle the signal light switch the brake lights work.

I would check my fuel filter.

Check light dimmer, signal light switch. Try wiggling it around while holding brake. Most Luminas have this problem.

The first thing is to have the battery load tested at your local Napa, autozone or what have you. This is a free service. If the battery checks out good, Next step is to remove the cables and clean the terminals. With this done and with the car running you should use a volt meter to see how many volts the alternator is putting out, Honestly a good Alternator will give a minimum of 13.2 volts to a maximum of 14.8 volts. Do not trust the "dummy lights" or even the volt gauge in the car...They lie. Use a good DVM.

there is a weep hole on the bottom of the pump, if it is leaking the aid of a small mirror can help you see it

Check the timing belt.

You may need a mechanic for this.The strong gas smell and the hard starting could be connected.You could have a leaking injector, or faulty pressure regulator. And you could have a fuel leak in the line.A mechanic would do a visual inspection of the line from the tank to the engine, and check the cylinders for raw fuel when the engine is off.

The sending unit is going to be inside the gas tank so..........

Don't need to be hereExplain all that at a repair shop

typically this vehicle utilizes a map sensor or what is known as a speed density system the vac operated devices that draw enough to cause it to stall are the 1. brake booster 2. pcv system 3.any of the rest of them would cause a fluctuating idle but the pcm could compensate we know the idle air control system is working because the idle surges so i would first remove the fresh air hose from the throttlebody the dry dirt around the butterfly valve accumulates chocking the airflow off and causes a low idle this is known as coking and is very common also check for EGR codes if egr solenoids 1 or 1,2 or 2 or 3 are stuck open this will cause a low unstable idle or stall and the tps voltage at idle should be checked 3 wires 1 wire should be ground 0.v 2nd wire should have a 5v reference and third wire is what is known as signal return it should read at idle around .5v to 1.v if it is not in this range then it will cause the same symptoms

are you looking for the cam position sensor it is located just under the power steering pump

There will be a fuse & relayIf a fuse blows you don't replace itYou would have to find out why it failedI think your best to go to a repair shop,if you got no factory manuals to followtrouble charts