Top 20 1992 Chevrolet Beretta Questions & Answers

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems.

Ignition control module or also called the igniter

Well typically a coil pack is very common to go on the 3.1!!

the 1995 was a change-over year for the engine so there were 2 ignation systems in 95 so here are both stat ups.

Did the engine overheat before the radiator was replaced? If so, there is a very high likelyhood that you have a blown head gasket and/or a warped or cracked cylinder head. Those aluminum heads are VERY UNFORGIVING when it comes to being overheated!

if you mean to replace the rear brakes,then you can remove both drums and look at how the brakes are installed and replace one side at a time using the other side to see how the spring system is fastened to the brakes to hold them in place.just remember the rear shoe(of both shoes on one side) is always the longer of the shoes if there is a difference in length of the shoe brake material.some brakes have a long shoe and a short shoe when you look at a shoe and compare it to each of the other shoes.some the shoes are the same length,in which case it won`t make any difference.

You would need to give us the Model Year and engine size for us to give you an accuract firing order. The web site below has lots of different engines for your car with there correct firing orders. again you need to know the engine you have for your car to get the right order.

Good Luck

http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-chevrolet-firing-92.htm

it is difficult to install for it is mounted on the steering coluum under the dashboard

Hello there
This is a fairly common problem with this year of vehical
Normally you will want to look under the hood at the fuse compartment for the ignition fuse and see if it is blown also look under the dash to see is there is a fuse there too
Now if all fuses there are tessted and are ok than this would mean that your spark modulator or coil pac as it may be reffered to is bad i would test those first..
further more there is a crankshaft position sensor that may be bad too it is located on the engine block about half way down towards the middle and has a wire that is plugged into it check to see that the wires are all in good working order and are not wet if so it will shour out the sensor and need to be replaced ok?
Hope this helps out
Best regards Michael

Mounted to the underside of the vehicle and looks like this. If yo need more help let me know.

My first thought would be oil pump. Did you replace it or re use old one? Also when rebuilding did you have block "hot tanked" (degreased and soaked in hot solution)? Is it ticking like oil starvation? It could be bad oil pressure switch if all sounds good. I'd check oil pressure with mechanical hand held pressure gauge.

Sounds like you have a loose or corroded battery connection. That's the typical symptom of a bad connection, when you try to crank and everything goes dead. Clean and tighten up the battery terminals and all the ground wires. Also, check and tighten the wires on the starter.

check ignition coils, wires, & fuses relays.

try this, even shows you how!
http://www.ehow.com/chevy-beretta/

if you cant find the plug flush it with a hose running water

Change the TPS on the throttle body
It has a built in reostat that has a few opens in it causing your problem

Check for spark,and check for fuel pressure,and check for injector pulse,I hope you are using a digital volt meter,if not,you can blow the ecm,If there is no spark,or no injector pulse,then the crankshaft sensor is the most likely cause for the problem.If there is no fuel pressure,then the fuel pump in the fuel tank is bad.

Check ECU for codes. Sound like your getting EGR
at the wrong time.

check all your hoses and radiator

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