20 Most Recent 1991 Chevrolet Caprice - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Just need to an eye on your key more often

well you didn't say what year it was , keeping that in mind I will try to respond with the info you did give. Generally the Chevy G20 vans have a coil mounted in the distributor itself, so having spark comming from the coil would mean it is not flowing through the rotor to the plug wires..... not sounding right to me either,... Possibly just a bad Distributor cap unless you have already replaced it. So I would have you look at the Ignition module first and the pick up coil second.. not mush else it could be ( ruling out a broken timing chain ) If it is a newer vehicle , it may have a crank position sensor failing or ecm.

first check two fuse box's one in the engines compartment and one underneath the drivers side left of the brake pad is at you should to see if there are any fuses that are blown but if you have a fuse blown most likely that there is a short some where with some of the wires that causing this to happen to blow the fuse so if you know how to use a multimeter that you can test the fuse that is bad if any with the two leads from the multimeter to see if the current is jumping because of a short two contacts inside where that fuse was.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. You need to check the fuse first. It is located in the fuse box. It should be labeled "horn". If the fuse is good, you may have a bad wire in the harness or a loose connection. If you have a horn that has the button, the button may be damaged or the contacts on the steering wheel.

Make sure the hose connected to the PCV valve is connected at both ends and has vacuum. It is better to replace rather than clean a PCV valve as they are inexpensive. It sounds like your engine is building up internal crankcase pressure so a new PCV valve would be a good place to start. The "egg" smell could be that the catalytic converter/s are going bad and need replaced.

check fuses and bulbs

Hello: The pitman arm is attached to the output shaft of the steering box on the drivers side, It attaches to the steering linkage. The idler arm is on the passenger side, one end attaches to the frame the other end to the steering linkage.

only at idle or all the time?

sounds like you have an air leak. it could be in any of your intake hoses. check them real good because the smallest pin hole will throw your idle off. also check your idle air control motor.

Your caprice is rear wheel drive so you probably have a u-joint in your drive shaft going bad. They can run like that for awhile, but when they go bad, they break, leaving you in the middle of the road and can cause severe body damage. Most shops can change them for about $100

Your headlight switch is faulty, change it out. seen it happen where head lights would work only until switch was replaced

your wasting your time with the coil as if no spark and no fuel this is a immobilisor problem so call tow truck and have it taken to a dealer for reprogramming and make sure you have a spare key programmed as well .

The A/C and heater are a combined unit in the dash of your car. The question likely is because your A/C compressor will cycle on and off occassionally when your defrost is in use. The reason this happens is 1. To help dry the incoming air to prevent condensation build up inside your car and 2. Allow the seal in the A/C compressor to lubricate itself during cold whether when the heater is the only cycle used.
This is normal and is not a cause for further concern.
Cheers.

Hesitation is usually caused by a dirty throttle body or a bad Throttle Position Sensor. I would try cleaning the throttle body first.

the body of the thermostat always goes in towards the engine or it will not open and will cause overheating

Hello: If the engine is racing (high RPM) when only going 12mph the it sounds like the transmission is slipping. (I grew up in southwestern Minnesota)

First thing this brings to mind is that the filter is plugging up. If it has been a long time since you have had the fluid and filter changed this could be the problem, I have seen this happen many times. If this is the case and it has not been changed in sometime try changing the fluid and filter as this is the cheapest and most likely cause in this situation. However there are other things that could be wrong like the seals inside among other things. If you do change the fluid and filter go ahead and purchase a bottle of ( trans-magic ) and add to it when adding the fluid back, This stuff can help unstick the parts inside the valve body if they are indeed sticking and if not it won't hurt. Good luck hope this helps. If not let me know.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Disconnect the blower motor lead connector from the wiring harness connector.

Remove the blower motor cooling tube from the blower motor.

Remove the four retaining screws.

Turn the motor and the wheel assembly slightly to the right so that the bottom edge of the mounting plate follows the contour of the wheel well splash panel.

Lift up on the blower and remove it from the blower housing.

Installation the new blower motor by reversing the removal steps.

Connect the negative battery cable.