20 Most Recent 1995 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Yes there should be a stop if the window is power. You may be missing a guide also.Someone will need to pull the door panel off and take a look at the tracks.

Do the brake lights work? You might need to adjust the brake light switch.

try spraying lithium grease at the swivel area

sounds like you may have two problems
you need to install pressure gauges on the a/c lines to confirm charge
then "jump" the clutch switch to verify a/c operation
as for the location of air from your dash, then is the result of a defective selection motor

did both of these occur at the same time?

Loosen rocker arm nut until you can hear it clatter(meaning it's loose)then tighten it down until you hear it stop clattering and take it another 3/4 of a turn at the most, if you hear the engine stumbling you've gone to far back it off 'til it stops stumbling and back it off 1/8 of a turn or so and you should be all set. This is all done after engine has reached normal operating temperature.

Power for the ac control module comes from a 25amp AC fuse and from one of the fuseable links off the starter.

The bottom mount is easy. It isn't easy to get the top. If you can get vice grips on the flat at the top of the stem where the nut holds the shock to the a arm and get the nut off consider yourself lucky. If you can get the nut loosened enough to get a blade in there you can use a sawzall/reciprocating saw to cut the shock below the nut and it will drop right out when the bottom mount is removed.

do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.

When you say it stops, the engine dies and will it restart, or do you have to wait a while for it to restsart, tell me exactly what happens,

Duplicate question

Remove the dist cap and then mark the direction that the rotor points, next unplug the connectors to the distributor, take care not to break the connector locks. Next remove the one bolt and clamp that holds the distributor to the intake manifold and lift the distributor out.

What size motor do you have?

Brakes are hydraulic. pedal going right to the floor indicates either brake fluid is too low and air got in the system, or your master cylinder is defective. if air is in system due to low fluid, you will need to bleed the brake lines.

The lifters are not supposed to be adjusted. Each lifter is a small "engine" itself. They are supposed to be self-adjusting (this was changed way back in the 1950's).If you are determined to adjust them, you will need to contact a place that builds race car engines, because there are procedures race cars use that adjust them. Oh yes, you can also replace hydraulic lifters with solid lifters. Some race cars do, and that is because, at really high RPM's, lifters can :"float", causing the engine to "top out" and not go any faster. I had that happen on a car back in the 1970's. Be blessed.

Its in the tank u have to drop the tank to change

open door hold handle up and pull the latch open. then it will close. your door pins are probably worn out so the door moves up and down.