20 Most Recent 1994 Chevrolet C/K 3500 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

this is eithere a loose positive cable from the altenator to the battery or the regulator in the altenator is about to fail. if you have not had any problems starting the vehicle then most likely its a loose connection between the gauge and the charginging circuit or the gauge is faulty. take a multimeter and test the charging votage at the altenator while the vehicle is running it should measure 13.5 volts and should not change more than .5 volts. if the voltage drops more than 1 volt the regulater is bad and the altenator needs to be replaced. if it is working fine then looke for a bad connection make sure all positive and ground cables are tight. if they are replace amp gauge

if it is a lever type and not automatic 4WD. You have to manually get down and turn the hubs clockwise to engage or couter clockwise to remove from 4WD. then Push the lever to 4L or 4Hi. If it is automatic. You press a button to engage 4wd.

please clarify

Replace the HEI ignition module that is located in the distributor.

bad speed senor on trans

It could be your shift solenoids. If they arent working properly your lockup clutch will engage and disengage. They are easy to change.

Check your lift pump. It is on the framerail. If that is not working check your oil pressure sensor it is behind the fuel filter. The lift pump does not get voltage if the oil pressure switch fails.

If it's an automatic, it has a Transmission range Switch (neutral safety switch). If it's a manual transmission, it'll have a clutch start switch. Here's the schematic:

great question and I have done the same the damper fails and I just remove it and turn the shaft where I please. (a stop gap fix) damper motor pulled off, mine has 4 damper motor drives. picking the right one is the the only trick (cool/hot blend,?) to learn that RTM read the shop manual online./ https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

if there is no physical sign of a switch in the jamb, its in the latch

To troubleshoot your problem,there are few help links,provided below.Click the link directly and follow the procedure to confirm the fault.So as per that you can continue further in repairing this issue of cruise control not working.The direct help links are as follows :-----cruise control not working?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/ford-ranger-cruise-control-not-working.html-----------Horn and Cruise control quit working?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/horn-and-cruise-control-quit-working.html

-------------- Horn and cruise control not working on car?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/horn-and-cruise-control-not-working-on.html

------------ Horn and Cruise control quit working suddenly?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/horn-and-cruise-control-quit-working-on.html

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Cruise control stop working ? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/cruise-control-stop-working-on-1994.html

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ford ranger cruise control not working? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/2005-ford-ranger-cruise-control-not.html

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My Cruise control not working? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/cruise-control-not-working.html

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This troubleshooting help links will help you to confirm the problem.

Thanks.

Most likely improper head pressure if oil level too high or same for refrigerant level

This is a failure in the def cleaning system. Most common cause is fluid low or empty.

A qualified repair shop.

First thing have the tranny control module checked for fault codes, if nothing shows up have the transmission fluid and filter changed and check the trans plug for water intrusion, if that fails to show anything you likely have a failed transmission and will need to have it rebuild. Expect to pay about $3000.00 to have it rebuilt.

You, Probably will, Brake Squeal is NOT a new problem.
Disc brake's have been Squealing since, They, became
factory installed on chevrolet in 1971. Before, that they,
were a option. In 72 they even had a bulleton how, to
FIX it. And, no it didn't work.
With That said, Any time you replace Brake pads you,
should always re-surface the Rotors.
Why? First you may start to notice a pulsation as the
pads ware (sometimes! ) The best way to avoid, brake
squeal is to manchine the Rotors put, the blue membrain
sealent on the back side of the pads. And hope that works!!
Some brakes Pads squeal JUST SQUEAL??
You, Could do the same Brake job the same as you did
this one and, they may NOT Squeal.WHY, I WISH I NEW. They
sell all types of STUFF to stop Brake noice DON'T waste your $$.

replace it would be a fix details are in the workshop manual as to where it is , and test procedures

You just go to the link I attached I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem https://www.reliable-store.com/products/1990-1991-1992-1993-1994-1995-1996-chevrolet-corvette-workshop-service-repair-manual

If you're not losing any brake fluid then it sounds to me as though the master cylinder is bleeding fluid between to two chambers allowing fluid to pass from one to the other which would decrease the pressure on one of the lines leading to the proportioning valve, thus setting off the 'brake' light. Orrrrr, IF it does NOT have the hydroboost system the following steps MAY help diagnose if it's a booster problem. (Copied and pasted from a youtube comment) Test 1) 1. Start the car 2. Let it idle for 2 minutes 3. After 2 minutes turn off the car 4. Pump the brake pedal 3 times 5. The pedal should rise every time if it does then the Booster and Check valve are OK 6. If the pedal doesn't then the is an issue with the either one, run tests 1 and 2. Test 2) 1. Start the car 2. Let it idle for 2 Minutes 3. After 2 minutes push down the brake pedal and HOLD it 4. While holding the pedal down turn off the car 5. The pedal should NOT rise for at least 30 seconds 6. If it doesn't rise then the Check Valve is good 7. If the pedal rises before 30 seconds then the Check Valve is faulty. Test 3) 1. Shut off the Engine 2. Pump the brake pedal 4 times 3. On the 4th one keep it pushed down and start the car while holding the pedal down 4. The pedal should sink down. 5. If it sinks, the booster is Fine. Myself, I'm leaning towards the master cylinder having an internal 'leak' or bypass problem. Hope this helps.