20 Most Recent 1995 Buick Century - Page 3 Questions & Answers

If there are no visible screws it will be push on ,try getting a screw in behind the cover and lever gently it should pop off.

No 7 fuse 20 Amp tail lights ,parking lights, side marker lights, license plate lights, stop lights and turn signal lights No10-20amp ( yellow) stop lights hazard lights located behind right side of dash to left of glove box check all the fuse

Check all the fuses to see if they are blown and replace them. If not the case then you will have to take it to a repair shop. Check for loose wires under the hood. Be careful when doing so, so that you don't get electrocuted .

Drop the transaxle out the bottom & pull the motor out the top You could just drop both, by removing the subframe bolts & other items,wiring connectors etc

Depends on ease of access. Many oil pans can be dropped without removing the engine. You will have to put car up on ramps and chock the wheels. Set emergency brakes and make sure car is in Park. I know, sounds like overkill, but better to much safety than one deadly accident. Drain your oil pan just like you would to do an oil change. Locate your oil pan bolts and carefully remove them. This should allow the pan to drop free for the gasket to be replaced. The leak may be due to loosened or lost bolts and not a bad gasket. You might try tightening them first and replacing any lost ones. Be sure not to over-tighten or could could bend the pan and that's a whole new bucket of problems. If you do replace the gasket, clean both surfaces, put new gasket on pan with a THIN bead of gasket sealant, put a THIN smear on top of the gasket and put back onto engine block. Tighten bolts to specified torque. May as well put on a new oil filter. No sense keeping cruddy oil filter with new oil. PUT OIL IN ENGINE. Remove from ramp and let run a bit, shut off for 5 minutes and recheck oil level. Be forewarned, this is a really dirty, crungy job. Wear clothes you're not emotionally attached to. Have hot water and dish soap at the ready to clean-up. No body wants to grab a door knob that's got yucky motor oil on it. And jump straight to the shower.

Hi there, Check the air con drive belt is still OK. Check to see if there is a slight change in the engine sound when the air con is switched on and off while idling - I'd get someone to do the switching while I listened under the hood. If there's no change in sound (assuming whatever had to be switched on to enable air con to go, eg fan was operating) I'd check the fuse(s) for the air con. If the fuse is ok, and you've already charged up the freon (not quite sure what you were saying there), I'd be taking it to an air con specialist.

On the starter, getting power directly from the positive battery cable, are several fusible links that distribute power throughout the electrical systems-they also supply the power distribution box where many of the lighting fuses are. Fusible Link B also supplies power directly to the headlight switch. One or more of your fusible links may have burnt out. If you don't know how to test for a bad fusible link, or don't know how to replace them-get help. One could test by seeing if the fuses in the power distribution block have power to them. Use a test light, clip it to negative battery post, and probe the tops of the fuses for power. There are two little slots on the tops of the fuses-put the needle probe of test light into the slots and see if they are hot. Even with key off, most of the fuses in the Power Distribution Center should have power on them. (With key on, all fuses on the car should show power to them.) If you have a lot of fuses showing no power, suspect a blown fusible link. If the fuses are hot, I would think your headlight switch is defective.

make sure light switch is turned off the full left position, if light is still on you probably have a bad door switch

Without knowing if its a factory radio or not and not knowing what he means by "never turns off" (illuminated) ? I can't help. Jerry