20 Most Recent 1988 Volkswagen Cabriolet - Page 8 Questions & Answers

autozone.com to download info.

-open hood
-locate 4-8 screws near the weindshield that secure the hood to the folding arms
- unplug any light connections or windshield sprayer hose line (at the splice)
- unsrew the screws and have someone their to help you take the hood off
- when you put it back on have 2 people holding the hood to the joint arms and 2 people to screw the hood on
-tighten, but not too hard, the hood
- close hood and check its alignment and adjust screws as neccessary
- connect wires and hoses
- fully tighten hood

choke stuck open?

Oil pressure sensors are generally easy to replace -unplug wire(s), unscrew & screw in new one. The trick is getting to it with simple tools. Most shops will get 2 hours labor to replace.

1.3.4.2.looking from the cambelt back

Should be in your owners manual. If not, you might ask the dealer.

does it turn over or do nothing ?

i'll bet the farm this is a clogged catalytic converter, most muffler shops will test this problem for free, you dont say what type of car, price range if this isyour problem, 180- 400$, again , do know what car you've got

Through the Filler cap on top the engine it should be round with a flat bar shape across it.

Ensure it has plenty of coolant in the radiator first. If the water is full to the correct level then you will need to get it "scanned" as it may have a faulty sensor.

engine hot and running,undo the topmost heater hose clip,making sure the water res is full,vent all the trapped air in the system.WEAR GLOVES,ITS HOT.all VW product(audi/vw/seat/skoda.MUST be vented after changing pump/thermo/rad.

CHECK ALL VACUUM HOSES FOR CONNECTION AND HOLES OR TEARS. THEN CHECK TIMING, AND FIRING ORDER ON PLUG WIRES.
GOOD LUCK

1342

vw autobox ???????? what is that meant to be.

1987 Volkswagen Cabriolet 1.8L FI SOHC 4cyl

1985-89 Scirocco and Cabriolet

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the fuel tank.
2. Remove the rear right wheel housing cover.
3. Disconnect the large breather hose from the filler neck.
4. Pull the gravity valve down leaving the hoses connected.
5. Unbolt the fuel pump bracket from the body and lower the pump.
6. Remove the fuel tank screw.
7. Disconnect the fuel pump hose and pull the blue hose from the return line.
8. Disconnect the brake hoses from both sides of the rear axle and plug them.
9. Disconnect the rear axle from both sides of the body and allow it to swing down and rest on the handbrake cable guides.
10. Unhook the rear muffler support lugs.
11. Disconnect the filler hose from the tank.
12. Support the tank, remove the tank fasteners and lower the tank enough to disconnect the fuel gauge sending unit wires and breather hoses.
13. Remove the fuel tank.

To install:
If installing a new or used tank, make note of where the old foam strips were installed, and install new foam strips on the replacement tank in the same locations.

1. Raise and support tank. Connect the small breather hoses and fuel gauge sending unit wires. Install the tank fasteners.

When connecting the breather hoses, position the hose clips so that they do not make contact with the body.

1. Connect the filler hose to the tank and connect the rear muffler support lugs.
2. Raise the rear axle off the handbrake cable guides and install.
3. Connect the brake hoses and bleed the brakes.
4. Connect the return line and fuel pump hose.
5. Install the fuel tank screw.
6. Raise the fuel pump and attach the fuel pump bracket to the body.
7. Put the gravity valve back into its original (raised) position.
8. Connect the large breather hose to the filler neck.

When connecting the breather hose, position the hose clip so that it does not make contact with the body.

1. Install the right rear wheel housing cover.
2. Fill the tank and connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. 1: Fuel tank assembly used on the Rabbit Pick-up. Other models are similar

Hope helps (remember to rate and comment this).

I don't know what engine you have, but all engines have timing marks on them. One on the crank will line up the engine to TDC on the number one piston, with the cover/s removed, you can see the cams aligned to their marks if the crank is on it's mark. A lot of cars use the same heads, cams on different engines, so they have more than one mark, when your crank is on TDC, the cam marks will be the ones you need. Either a diamond or a dot , or a slash. If your belt has broken and the engine ran for more than 2 seconds, take it to the junk yard, It will be shot. Hope this helps.

lift the hood and look at the side of the engine that has a smaller end,there you should see a brightly coloured tip on the of a long thin metal stick,at the bottom of this stick you will notice a high and low mark oil should be in the middle.adrian,,,,

Turn the crankshaft so that the mark on the flywheel lines up with the arrow on the bellhousing(Theres a plastic plug on the bellhousing to remove before you can do this. Confirm that no 1 piston is on TDC by inserting a plastic rod/straw or similar into no 1 cylinder plug hole. Turn the crankshaft quarter turn from its original position, when the rod reaches its highest point youre on TDC.
Remove tappet cover. Turn camshaft so that lobes on cylinder 1 point upward/away from head. Check cam pulley - on the inside of the cam pulley is a dot stamped into the rim of one of the teeth. Align this dot with the top on the head.
Adjust intermediate pulley so that the dot stamped on its rim lines up with the notch in the crankshaft pulley.
When fitting the belt keep tension on the parts of the belt indicated in the sketch. (Sorry sketch is so rudimentary)