20 Most Recent 1988 Mazda B2200 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

hello, go under it and see if cathalistic gets red, than you might have a clogged cathalistic!

The standard fuel pump on that Mazda is a mechanical pump. This is what it looks like unless somebody did a modification on it and fitted an electrical pump.

Make sure the motor has not been changed the2200 and the 2400 motors look exactly the same

FIRING ORDER IS 1 3 4 2

http://www.automotiverepaironline.net/?gclid=CK7J0p7UpKcCFYnt7Qodx3c4CA

You can find a diagram at this link.

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

The float is surely worn out due to old age. I strongly suggest that you replace the float to resolve the issue. The float tends to stuck specially when it's corroded. Have it replaced and you'll be good.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

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When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crank position (CKP) sensors. Check also the firing order. Please see pciture below.
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If you are replacing the gasket, are you doing a complete head job or just the gasket? If you are only doing the gasket and not having the head resurfaced(machined), That could very well be your problem. Does the gasket blow in the same place everytime? That is why if so. If you have been resurfacing every time you replace your gasket, and its been done more than twice, you need another head. Now to answer your question, Yes, It would be very wise to replace the head bolts with new. If I remember right, that engine has stretch bolts that have a one time use only limit on them. I could be wrong but I think if you already have that much of your engine apart, might as well spend a few more bucks to make sure everything is rite.

it is on the fire wall on the left or it is on the farm rail under the driver seat

Line from reservoir goes to a cylinder at clutch lever on bell housing. There should be a bleeder nipple there. Looks like a brake line bleeder. Let me know if you find it. Thanks.

Change the fuel filter. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.

there is pick up screen in the tank or sometimes called a sock . steel or plastic mesh remove it..

You need to turn the engine over and bring it up to top dead center (TDC). Aline your put the chain or belt on. The crank gear will be on you just will need to aline the cam gear as I believe it is overhead cam. Do NOT force the cam gear to turn as you can bend your valves. When you are putting in the distributer as you slide it in it will rotate a bit. Make sure it is alined to where your rotor will be faceing to the #1 position on the cap. I hope you understand. If need be I can look up the timing marks for the cam for you just post a comment if you need. When I say to bring to TDC you turn the engine over to where the # 1 piston is to the top of the cylinder. Hope this helped and good luck.

try to look at the engine placards

You may have air in your braking system. You will need to bleed your brakes.

Some people say it is ok to just bleed the front brake that is on the same side as the master cylinder. I personally feel that all 4 brakes should be bled.

On each caliper/drum there should be a small nipple type fitting with a (usually) 8mm nut at its base. Loosening this nut will allow brake fluid to seep from the nipple opening.

Work with a partner. Remove your first wheel of the brake to be worked on. Loosen the 8mm nut. Have your assistant depress the brake pedal steadily to the floor and hold. If a steady stream of fluid comes out tighten the nut and move on to the next brake. If the brake fluid comes out sputtering with air, tighten the nut after your assistant depressed the brake (but ensure they kept the pedal to the floor). Have them take their foot off the brake. Loosen the nut again and have them depress the brake fully again. Repeat until steady stream of fluid comes out with no air.

Do this for all 4 brakes.

Once complete refill the reservoir to the recommended fill line.

Should be located at the rear of the engine block on the passenger side, attached to the cylinder head I believe.

It sounds like you're getting moisture in the distributor cap. Try replacing it.