20 Most Recent 2003 GMC Yukon - Page 2 Questions & Answers

There are sensors all over the engine, none are called fuel injection sensors, each has its own nomenclature. Do a fault code test and see if any fault codes show up.

This code can also mean there is a failed throttle actuator or failed throttle position switch. Not sure what you mean by "app no voltage". Was a meter used to confirm no power at the switch?

The battery in your keyless remote #1 for the vehicle is low and needs replacing.

Could sizes engine!Check coolant level do not drive.Check for codes.

Ask again in 2032 when the designers have it figured out. :)

Google the OBD Codes2003 GMC Yukon OBD Code P1571 & P1689

Check tensioner and sepentine belt. Additionally check power steering fluid level

keep driving it. it takes time once the codes are cleared for all the system checks to take place. This was done by the auto manufacturers to help eliminate the check engine light cheaters for emissions testing. Now the vehicle needs to be driven for enough drive cycles to satisfy the engines computer that everything is working properly. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

This may be related to the antitheft system The system is known for turning off the starter and/or injectors when it fails. Is there a light on the dash that says SECURITY? This is a common problem worth looking into. http://www.diy-gm-security.com/ &

Hi Sharon, This could be a fuel / air mixture or one of dozens of other emissions related problems. Fortunately, the OBD computer in your car keeps a record of the fault. Many auto parts stores will connect a "code scanner" to the OBD connector in your car for FREE to obtain the fault code. They will also provide you with the decoded fault trouble and possible remedies. Ask at your local store if they do this - you shouldn't have to pay anyone to scan the OBD codes for you. Good luck!

In my 2000 sebring I would be driving and lose power no throttle response,everything else still on. It was the crank sensor. Went to auto zone for free scan and that was one of the many that came up. Replaced and everything ran great after that.

No, as long as you didn't open the hydraulic lines you are fine, i assume you just pushed in the caliper piston and put new pads on. If you did only that you are fine. that being said, might be a good time to change the fluid.

Ok it,s easy take to the DEALER and ask them what,s wrong then ya won,t be spending extra cash for the wrong answer Easy Done

IF the engine liht is on ,that meens the computer has power,has for the port,look for a blown fuse.

Cycle the key on and off or simply start your vehicle for a moment and check for any gas leaks. Because your vehicle is a GM, the lines tend to rot away along the frame right where the plastic clips are that hold it in place. Start from the engine and work your way back. I'm sure your find a bad section on steel line. Also check to see if you have a cabin filter and replace as well. I hope this helps you. Good luck

Clean the throttle body and throttle plates with a rag and carb cleaner, disconnect and reconnect battery terminal to clear adaptive strategy memory. Go for a 20 minute drive, idle for several minutes, it shouldn't be stalling any longer . . .

If the motor siezed your better off changing motor out.some Gm 5.7 engines were doomed early on they went to a two bolt main and excessive clearance on rear main journal short life.

I've had the reduced engine power mode happening intermittently below 40 degrees for the last year on my 2007 Yukon Denali XL. I do not wish to play the game of throwing parts at it by some incompetent repair shop so I've read and researched for many hours! I JUST MIGHT HAVE THE BEGINNINGS OF AN ANSWER. On one of the many forums, can't remember where, someone mentioned they felt like the butterfly was sticking on the throttle body in cold temps. He said, after warming up the engine, he would rev it several times to "loosen it". Sounded ridiculous but it has worked for me for the last 2 weeks. Now, I think the engine power reduced mode is the result of many different running issues but a lot of people complain about this during colder months. Here's a couple of my scenarios: I'm driving down the highway and I can feel it start to "miss" or faintly "cut-out" for several minutes. This is sort of a warning that shut down mode is coming. I pull over, put it in park or neutral and just rev the engine 4-6 times. Put it back in drive and get back on the road. I always make the rest of my 45 minute journey without incident. Scenario 2: it's cold outside and the check engine light comes on. Another warning sign for me that shut down mode is enivitable. I do the same procedure of pulling over, revving it 4-6 times and just go on with my travels. By doing this preemptive routine I have not had the shut down mode problem in the last 2 weeks except for one time when I had just left the house and it hadn't had sufficient warm up time to do the revving procedure yet. It seems to be a short-lived fix that doesn't last more than a couple of days but it has me feeling better about explaining to a mechanic, when I do finally take it in, as to what to look for and how I seem to fix the issue albeit temporarily. My next report will come when it is fully repaired by a "competent" shop. Hope this helps a few of you as its really a free test case diagnostic !

Two possibilities come to mind with his type of noise and they both require attention NOW! To check the vehicle park on a level surface with the vehicle off and in park (you may need help). Slide under the vehicle ahead of the rear tire so you can see the connection of the driveshaft to the rear end. Then rock the vehicle back and forth with the tire and look at the u-joint connection. If the rear end yoke is moving more than the driveshaft the u-joint needs replacing. If the joint is extremely bad you can sometimes grab the driveshaft and wiggle it. If the vehicle rocks back and forth and there is little or no movement in the drive shaft and you hear clunking in the rear end there can be serious trouble in the rear end. Either condition will require some mechanical skill to fix. I hope this helps.