Top 20 2003 Pontiac Grand Am - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The 137 code is low input,rear o2 sensor,141 is a preheat fault at the same o2 sensor,the 442 is an evap leak (like a loose gas cap ) None of these codes would cause a no start condition.I think a fuel pressure test should be first,at least see if you hear the pump run for about 3 seconds as the key is turned on,don't have to crank it just turn the key on and listen (or a helper) at the fuel filler neck.

What I'm afraid of is that you've blown a head gasket.... cracked a head... or maybe even cracked your block. This results in too much pressure building up in your cooling system and blowing out your coolant. First of all,though, let's look at the simple things first. Are the electric radiator cooling fan (fans) working?? When they don't work, it usually results in everything running okay as long as the car is kept moving, but overheats when car is sitting still. Check this out.. This is a fairly frequent problem. Also, if you've had an over-heat situation because of a fan not working, you could now also have a cracked head or block problem, caused by the excessive engine heat. I'm not familiar with the vehicle you drive, so I don't know if the cap you said you changed on the reservoir is a "pressure cap", or not. If it's not, then you would have a pressure cap on the top of the radiator that may be faulty... (Note: Don't remove a pressure cap while engine is still hot.) After that, check and see if there might be a build up of bugs at the front of your radiator that might restrict air-flow. Good luck...

This is a major job. Accessing the HVAC module where the heater core resides requires discharging the A/C system, removing the dashboard, steering column, and heater box. The labor is just over 6 hours. Add in the cost of coolant and refrigerant and you've got a big bill coming....and unfortunately, one that most DIYers can't take on by themselves. Labor rates run $80.00 - $100.00 hour depending on shop. Some services can be packaged to save money, such as the recover-recharge A/C system, drain/refill cooling system. Be careful, however, because shops use a industy-standard book rate for these jobs to determine hours to charge. The hours listed for this job should include the coolant drain/refill and A/C discharge/recharge labor if they are required. If the shop offers you package prices, ensure that they are adjusting labor time for the core R/R and not double-billing you on the labor for those package items.

you have the starter solenoid energiser wire on the wrong terminal

speed senor bad or not plugged in or a short in the wire maybe a fuse also for it

Camshaft wear/lifter not operating/damaged valve components.Usually due to engine sludge from lack of servicing/wrong oil grade for conditions/short runs giving internal water vapour in oil.

Stock radio: Press and hold the hour button. It will move up by one hour. Set to the correct hour. Do the same for the minute

may be low beam filament is fused

its supposed tp do that with new batteries..if you want it disabled..call dealer service..

check your light bulbs one maybe off on front or back

Yes it could be a number of things a bad tire is not safe. Put your spare on the car, see if the noise goes away, if so replace tire, check brakes and all parts in that area.

could be your ignition has screwed up alot of times if heavy key rings hang from an ignition it messes them up on the inside causing a problem like your describing try wiggling the key around while trying to turn it you might have to change out your ignition switch

Might have jumped timing

Most likely a wheel bearing

Push and hold hour buttons to set hour and the same for the minute

starter or starter relay ..just hope it is not your timing belt ,,,they will be billing you for the starter labor as well as a bunch of things they want to pad their pockets with ..if it is a labor bill of 900 bucks they probably did what I mentioned ..Good luck

Lay on the floor and look Under the vehicles plastic cover. It's small about 6-8 inches

if it is not firing properly, Yes

IN my Toyota the security light blinks until the key is inserted and the immobilizer recognizes the key setting and then it goes out so Yes it would have something to do with not starting as the immobilizer is not registering the key setting (key fob battery flat)

there is a little clear/white tank by the top of the engine towards the back