2001 Mazda Protege - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

checked water pump for circulating the coolant?checked the radiator if the coolant circulated correctly?thermostat renewed?thermo switch checked whether is working?fan switch checked whether is working?checked whether the matrix could circulate the coolant?ckecked whether there is any valve on the matrix hoses and is working?have you bled the cooling system ?have you checked whether you have a cylinder head gasket with problem and pressurized the water? checked whether have a cracked cylinder head and on accelaration expanded the water hoses?have you checked whether the radiator cap is working ok?have you checked whether the radiator cap is with the correct pressure for the cooling system?checked whether the cooling fan is working?

It could possibly be a short in the fuse connection or there a wire that's not connected properly... The heat does this, believe it or not....

ck fuel pressure ,map maf sensor.timing .

Checa el fusible principal, main fuse esta en la caja negra del lado del conductor debajo del cofre. creo q es de 50 0 60 a

i agree need more symptomes but its more likly fuel pump than spark plugs but you need to test for spar and fuel pressure befor you can go any further

make sure the cooling fan is working

fuel pump. ignition system (plugs wires coil).

check all wires and did you set timing marks after youput belt on

There can be a misfire too from the cylinders.

An engine that hesitates, stumbles or misfires when accelerating or when it is under load is an engine that is either sucking too much air, not getting enough fuel or misfiring. If the Check Engine Light comes on, you may find any of the following codes:

• P0171, P0174 Lean fuel condition codes
• P0120 to P0124 Throttle position sensor codes
• P0222 to P0229 Throttle position sensor codes
• P0400 to P0409 EGR related codes

If there are no misfire codes, a common cause of acceleration stumble is a bad throttle position sensor (TPS). The TPS tells the computer how far the throttle is open. The computer uses this information to determine how much fuel is needed to maintain the correct air/fuel mixture and when extra fuel is needed if the throttle suddenly opens wide.

Another common cause is dirty fuel injectors. If varnish deposits have built up in the tips of the injectors, they won’t spray as much fuel as they normally do, or will “dribble” fuel instead of spraying a fine mist. This creates a lean fuel mixture and conditions that are ripe for stumble and hesitation (also misfire). Look at short term fuel trim (STFT) and long term fuel trim (LTFT) with your scantool. If the numbers are high, it tells you the engine is running lean and the injectors need cleaning. Treat mild cases with a high quality fuel-injector cleaner additive. Severe cases require professional cleaning equipment.

Also if this sensors apply to your vehicle, camshaft sensor or crankshaft sensor if sensors bad you don't get any spark. Also run a scan on the car.

Good luck and rate this solution, please.

check inertia switch "emergency fuel shut off" call local mazda dealer.ask for parts dept and ask them for location of switch.

I have seen this problem and it was the air intake hose of the engine was cracked and allowing excessive unmetered air to enter the engine when you accelerate (causes the engine to run very lean and stall out) due to engine lift, the crack is hard to see and will be on the bottom of the hose.

Typically the problem has to to do with dirty contacts in the front connections and buttons of the stereo. Either humidity has caused some corrosion of the brass contacts or dust is interfering with the contacts. This is particularily true if you live in a dusty environment (rural roads etc.) You could take the radio apart and clean the contacts with a pencil eraser or alcohol on a swab but this is very time consuming and finding all the plastic clips and screws and being able to put it back together again without breakage is tricky. Nope. Best bet is to hit the scrapyard and get a used one of the exact same kind. Start by pulling the small plastic strips off either side of the stereo. These plastic strips conceal the release holes for the retaining clips. Pry the plastic strips out carefully with a precision screwdriver or an awl (long sharp pointy tool). Then use the awl or screwdriver to insert into the holes on either side. There are 4 clips altogether and 2 on each side. Do one side at a time. They're hard to see so insert the tool and lever it side to side. If you feel a spring like device then you're on the clip. Lever firmly to push clip out of the way while holding the body of the stereo and gently pulling out of dash. Keep alternating top and bottom clip until one side comes free. Easier yet - use two identical tools and lever both holes at the same time. Then without letting one side slide back repeat the process on the other side. You might want to get a friend to help hold the stereo and/or operate the tools. Once the stereo is out the antenna and plastic wiring harness should unclip easily. As I said the retaining clips are almost invisible so you have to do it by feel. Mazda likely has a tool for this removal but labour is expensive. Be patient and good luck.

i HAVE A MAZDA 2002 PROTEGE AND I NEED A FUSE BOX DIAGRAM..ANYONE...

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0660 has a generic description of "Variable Inertia Charging System (VICS) Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction"Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1569 has a generic description of "Variable Tumble Control System (VCTS) Solenoid Valve Circuit, Low Input"Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1250 has a generic description of "Pressure Regulator Control (PRC) Solenoid Valve Malfunction"These are all CIRCUIT failure codes. The circuits to each of these solenoids are SEPARATE circuits. The failure of one of these circuits SHOULD have no effect on the other two.I did do a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) search for your vehicle to see if there were any known problems that regularly cause these codes or if there are any computer programming issues that can cause these. The search came up negative - no known issues for ANY of these codes.If your check engine light has been on for quite a while, it is possible that each of these failures occured at separate times and you simply did not know about the second and third failures because the check engine light was already on due to the first failure. Technically, you have three separate circuit failures no matter how it came about.However, if these all showed up at the same time, I would be taking a hard look at the engine control wiring harnesses. It is that time of year for lots of rodent damage. They like to crawl up into warm engine compartmens and chew on things like wiring harnesses and vacuum hoses. Another common denominator would be harness connectors. These wires all go through the same connectors, including the PCM connectors. It is possible that moisture and corrosion in a connector is shorting all of these circuits out. If you do not see any obviously damaged wiring harnesses, I would be taking connectors loose and examining the pins inside them.Other than this, the only thing I can tell you to do is to diagnose each circuit individually. One may have a bad solenoid, while another has a loose connector pin, while the third one may have a broken wire. However, I think there is a real good possibility that if you find the problem with one of these circuits, the problem with the others will be close by.

Hi,When your Check Engine light illuminates, it's an indication that your on-board diagnostic computer has detected an abnormality in one of the vehicle's critical circuits.As the light is now blinking, this implies there is a critical fault which must be attended to URGENTLY - potentially, this could relate to a critical safety system.I recommend you URGENTLY have the fault codes read from your vehicle's OBD computer. Autozone may do this for you at no charge, or you can take to your nearest Mazda dealership to have the codes read - this process takes only 15mins (depending on the skill of the technician), so should be at minimal cost. I also recommend you be present when these codes are read, so you can see this process for yourself. This procedure requires in-depth knowledge of OBD diagnostics, so if you choose to take your vehicle to a basic garage, don't be surprised if they either do not know what they're doing, or charge you large sums of money to carry out a simple task.Once the codes are read from your vehicle's computer, you will immediately know which circuits require further attention.Do not attempt to tune the engine, nor replace any components....until after the diagnostic has been performed.Hope this helps......

Hi wojtek,Your check engine light is on to tell you that one or more of the many sytems and circuits monitored by your engine control computer is malfunctioning. when the Check Engine light is FLASHING this means that there is a SEVERE problem and that if you continue to operate the vehicle without fixing it, you will destroy some VERY EXPENSIVE parts like the catalytic converters or you may be causing severe engine damage.NOBODY can tell you what is wrong without first scanning your engine control computer to retrieve fault codes to find out WHY it is turning the light on.For more information, please read this article:Why Is My Engine Light ON?

SOUND LIKE ENGINE OVER HEATING GETTING TOO HOT.CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.IF COOLANT LEVEL OKAY.REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.HAVE THE ENGINE AND COOLANT TEMPERATURE CHECKED. YOUR RADIATOR AND ENGINE BLOCK COULD NEED FLUSHING OUT.IF COOLANT LEVEL WAS LOW.CHECK FOR LEAKING WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE OR GASKET, CHECK ALL COOLANT HOSES FOR LEAKS.

Since they are new you need to carefully check the connections at the battery, the starter, and the ignition switch and look for damage wiring. Rare, but new batteries can be bad, check your voltage resting (should be about 12.6+) and cranking/clicking (above 10.4), If either are low, you have a bad connection, bad battery or bad starter, even if new.Measure at the battery and at the starter positive connection to see if you have a clamp or cable issue.

P0660 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit/Open.. Although you may want to first look at a new EGR Valve - particularly in Mazda.
PS: Your local auto parts store can also define OBD II Codes.
Best regards
Ck

All TPS Sensors have to be on the throttle body

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) !!