2001 Mazda Protege - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

In every case where the check engine light is on there should be a code read and/or the use of diagnostic equipment to locate the fault, repairs carried out as required and then the code cleared from the memory. It is probable other things will start working normally when the problem causing the engine check light to illuminate has been rectified but whether this is true or not that must be your starting point.

You can't. And I wouldn't do it for several reasons. First of all, it will be really difficult to turn the wheel at slower speeds and the reaction time of turning the wheels will be increased tremendously, thus increasing your chances of getting into an accident. Having no power steering assist on a car originally designed with power steering IS NOT the same as a car with manual steering. Second: many power steering racks require some form of recirculating fluid to keep the seals and the rack lubricated. So without the pump, eventually you might seize up the rack or blow a seal and that's a nice expensive repair. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/daniel_4061c3d97c12c4c7

you not only need a cat. but to fix the misfire causing the light to flash.the light flashes to tell you not to drive veh.

Check EGR valve and circuit and also coolant temp sensor. Also bad cat converter or muffler can cause this.

buy a can of sea foam motor treatment at a auto parts store pour it in the gas tank with at least a half tank of gas disconnect the negative battery terminal for about 15 seconds reconnect, than start car and drive it should solve problem with hesitation if the problem comes back check for a bad injector are fouled spark plug, you should put sea foam or other brands of injector cleaner fuel conditioner in your gas every other fill up ethanol gas fouls plugs and causes injectors to clog because of the carbon that it forms on your pistons valves and intake runners, sea foam will cure this problem

do a compression test on each cylinder. If you have good compression, the problem is either fuel or spark. grab a manual and a code scanner and a voltmeter and start diagnosing if you have good compression. If you have bad compression, find another engine.

Hi Santino, I'm Al the owner of Big As Auto Repair Santino, are you saying when you turn the key to the start position it does nothing meaning its completely dead. OR are you saying when you turn the key to the start position the engine turns over but it will not start and run. If it does nothing then there could be a problem with the KEY Itself or could be the starter relay. Check at the starter relay to see if your getting power from the ignition switch when its turned to the start position. If you don't have power there it could be the ignition switch. But, if you do have power there then you need to see if your getting power from the relay to the starter. Reinstall the relay and have someone turn the key to the start position while you check for power on the small wire going to the starter. I'm stopping here until I know which problem your facing. For further assistance go to my website and answer the question I ask. Have an awesome day Santino. Auto Repair

Possible that the fan belt is not tensioned right or that the water pump is binding causing low flow through the heater. If belt is not loose, release it more and try turning the water pump by hand to see if it is binding.

Pull the oil filter & take it apart I would never go to pep boys, seems their handy work is part to blame there You do your own timing belt,why would you have someone change your oil?

It's possibly for the timing to be off even if you line up the marks. If it have variable timing the the marks only are a reference. You need special tools to properly set up timing

This code means 1 banks is running to lean on fuel, might be caused by a air leak or a faulty MAF sensor.

its about 15 ft lbs

need more info ??

check for the temp gauge sender unit wire is not shorting out on the engine . Replace the sender unit as it may have failed internally. Be sure get the temperature sender unit and not the temperature sensor unit which is a different unit all tegether.

Hi Chinara, I'm glad to help! The fact that they are spraying Carb-cleaner and it runs for a minute then dies tells me that you have a fuel issue. NOTE: It could be that you have NO Power or Ground at the fuel pump OR the fuel pump itself is bad OR You may only have a FAULTY ASD RELAY. Sometime the ASD Auto-Shut-Down-Relay can go bad and shut the fuel off. Have the mechanic swap the relay with one of the same in the fuse box and see if it will start. If it doesn't, have him check power and ground at the fuel pump. If it has lost power are ground and the ASD is good then it has a wiring problem somewhere from the front to the rear of the vehicle. NOTE: If it has both power and ground at the fuel pump then replace the fuel pump. NOTE: Sometimes when a fuel pump goes bad you can hit on the tank right where the pump sits and it will wake the pump back up and it will start, but still needs to be replaced if this works. I'm not trying to take over the mechanics job, but it sounds like they may be putting on parts because their not sure what it is. Proper diagnosis will always bring you to the problem and replacement of the correct part every time. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Chinara.

How do you know that? You looked at fuel trim on a scanner You looked at oxygen sensor data You scoped the sensors Your going by some OBD Code you got You can't get a much easier job than replacing the downstream sensor,so I guess you never even looked under the car! 22mm wrench & your done in 15 min. Rock Auto.Com for parts I like NTK The front sensors get replaced every 100,000 miles The rear when they fail or at 100,000 if it makes you feel good I replace NOTHING without testing old parts & new parts Won't learn a thing any other way

A 2001 Mazda Protege (actually, all models from 1999-2003 including the DX, LX, ES, Mazdaspeed, and Protege 5) does not have an inline fuel filter. The only fuel filter it has is a "strainer" or a "screen", which looks like a nylon mesh "sock". This strainer is connected to the fuel pump, located in the gas tank. Although this fuel strainer does not require periodic replacement, it is recommended that it be changed if you are replacing the fuel pump.

There is an overdrive sensor located inside the transmission, you can goto any local garage and have it replaced fairly cheap or DIY by dropping the transmission pan and the sensor is located in plain sight, also the sensor is around 15-30$ through a parts store.

You always check for codes & all data, with or without a mil or check light on your dash & correct those issue first,then continue on Everyone should own a code reader, but you only get generic codes, not enhanced you also need, which are on professional scan tool software. Not a vapor lock issue on fuel injection You can not say or speculate what is or isn't without looking at scanner data & doing some testing You could have any evap system leak,maybe not gas cap but still evap system or engine or exhaust vacuum leak or failing fuel pump or fuel system issue Need to see the data on professional test equipment Need to component test Need to find something,anything,correct that & continue on

Could be a bent tie rod end, or the lower control arm. You may have bent the rim too.