20 Most Recent 1986 Ford Econoline - Page 4 Questions & Answers

yes it will just remember to put a racoon in with the new filter to eat the old fluid

no not a fuel filter problem, that just causes a lack of power, u have the symptoms of a failing ignition control module (located on the outside of the distributor) and distributor pickup ( located on the inside of the distributor)

join the clan bruv were all short of the folding stuff ,so what do you want to know ,

you need a new Ignition Key Cylinder, easy to buy and easy to replace.

i would have a alignement done sounds like it is out or maybe tires need balanced hope this helps

right try turning the lock to aux position then you should be able to push the pin down thats in this hole and it pulls out,must be AUX position or you will never move it ,then when its done visit the auto factor and buy a steering wheel lock that clamps to the steering wheel or a length of chain and a nice padlock and chain it from seat fixing to steering wheel .,they see that and they will look for another vehicle to get home in

http://www.jcwhitney.com/door-hinge-assembly/p2025926.jcwx?filterid=d17611y1986j2

Check out this page.

find the solenoid and you should here it click when it switches over,,,if you here nothing test that its getting a 12 volts feed,,

CK THE FUEL GUAGE BY GROUNDING SENDING UNIT GUAGE WIRE IF GUAGE GOES TO FULL SUSPECT BAD SENDING UNIT IN TANK ,BUT I HAVE SEEN THESE HAVE BRASS FLOATS AND THEY WILL FILL UP AND SINK TO THE BOTTOM TO INDICATE EMPTY

HOPE THIS HELPS

Take that new pump out and install the correct one. Why would you install something that is not an exact match to what you removed??

recheck the connections at the battery and also (when deenergized) the connection at the starter which is positive.

Also check the ground from the negative battery terminal to the body or frame.

goto auto zone or advance auto they'll be glad to print one out for you "no charge".

take a look at the two relays on the top of fender sheild, these go bad alot,one is for the ecm and the other for the fuelpump,start there and also you may want to check to see what is not happening like spark or fuel

Check online with a Ford Dealer or go to your local dealer,

You may have a plugged fuel filter. Are you getting power to the front tank pump?

• Brake linings that are worn to within 1/32 inch (0.79 mm) of a rivet head or that have been contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil must be replaced.

Potential brake shoe problems. Courtesy of Wagner Brake Products.

• Failure to replace worn linings results in a scored drum. When it is necessary to replace brake shoes, they must also be replaced on the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle. Inspect brake shoes for distortion, cracks, or looseness. If these conditions exist, the shoe must be discarded.
• Do not let brake fluid, oil, or grease touch the brake lining.
• If a brake lining kit is used to replace the linings, follow the instructions in the kit and install all the parts provided.
• The two general methods of attaching the linings to the brake shoes are bonding and riveting.
• The bonded linings are fastened with a special adhesive to the shoe, clamped in place, then cured in an oven. Instead of using an adhesive, some linings are riveted to the shoe.
• Riveted linings allow for better heat transfer than bonded linings.

Drum Shoe and Brake Installation

• Before installing the shoes, be sure to sand or stone the inner edge of the shoe to dress down any slight lining or metal nicks and burrs that could interfere with the sliding upon the support pads.
• A support (backing) plate must be tight on its mount and not bent. Stone the shoe support pads brightly and dress down any burrs or grooves that could cause the shoes to bind or hang up.
• Using an approved lubricant, lightly coat the support pads and the threads of servo star wheel adjusters. On rear axle parking brakes, lubricate any point of potential binding in the linkage and the cable. Do not lubricate nonservo brake adjusters other than to free a frozen adjuster with penetrating oil.

The areas or pads where the brake show will rub or contact the backing plate.

• Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure all parts are in their proper locations and that both brake shoes are properly positioned in either end of the adjuster.
• Also, both brake shoes should correctly engage the wheel cylinder pushrods and parking brake links.
• They should be centered on the backing plate. Parking brake links and levers should be in place on the rear brakes.
• With all of the parts in place, replace the brake drum.

It could be your catalytic converter which is clogged, when the car is cold.. you are getting enough exhaust escaping allowing the car to run, but it will be very restrictive, once this is hot is so restricted that it will not allow the car to restart.
This can be a serious condition and if parked over dry grass or trash could actually start a fire. Take you vehicle to a respectable exhaust specialist.

you shouldnt have to bleed them unless they have been worked on recently, i guess the first thing to do is fill the master cylinder, park the truck somewhere flat and clean, pump the heck out of the breaks then move the truck and look for puddles, it really sounds as if there is a leak somewhere in the hydrolic system.

Are you getting solid fuel pressure? Lack of fuel can be hard to nail down. To know if you have fuel - spray WD40 into the intake area and see if it starts and runs at all. If it even tries to start as where before it didn't - you most likely have a fuel problem.

checkout the crank sensor give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if all fails stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your Van wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.