20 Most Recent 1991 Mazda B-Series Questions & Answers

https://youtu.be/s34ZS2885Kk here a video that should he

1991 Mazda... | Answered on May 14, 2017

Sounds like the litthe black box under the rotor button has failed. Where you sprayed the wd40. Its a position sensor to tell the cap when to fire. Used to be common on chevy but id bet thats where you need to be. Take off the cap pull the rotor and there will be two small screws golding it in. Pop it out and replace it. Could be wiring too but seing it wasnt evenmivung when it happened id bat not.

1991 Mazda... | Answered on Apr 29, 2017

The brake light bulbs could be at fault....They are designed to work with the brake pedal and the night running lights....The bulbs work as a two way light....This means they have 2 small wires inside the bulb...Some bulbs only have one wire but they only serve one purpose...In cases like that the bulbs are at fault normally or you have a bad wiring issue ...,there is also a brake light switch connected to the brake pedal but if your brake lights work it should be ok..but don't rule it out...anything is possible with older vehicles...Only one wire inside the bulb can burn out and cause one light not to work but the other light will work because the bulb still has one of the wires connected inside...One 1157 bulb works 2 lights,,,the brake light and the running light....It is common for them to blow only half way leaving the other light working ....Look at the difference between a 1156 bulb and a 1157 bulb and you will see what I am trying to describe..An 1156 is for only a one way light because it only has one wire....look at the difference between the two.....If you have never replaced them change them anyway...Sometimes you can't tell when they are blown....Normally the bulbs cause the problem you are having....Thanks

1991 Mazda... | Answered on May 10, 2015

Take 2 people to do this. 1 person stays in the car and pumps the brakes then holds the pedal down. Starting at the P.R. tire, open the bleeder valve, once all the liquid and possible air stops coming out close the valve and have the other person pump the brakes and hold the pedal down again. Remember to keep the brake fluid filled up and do the brakes in this order: P.R., D.R., P.F., and finally D.F.

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1991 Mazda... | Answered on May 03, 2015

The master cylinder and the wheel bearings are completely un realated parts. The first thing to check is the brake fluid level. If it's full and you have zero braking and zero pedal then you may well have a dead m/c. If you find an empty reservior, fill it and then figure out where it went. A leak anywhere will have the same result, no fluid, no brakes. The ABS issue may or may not be related but you need to solve the no pedal problem first.

1991 Mazda... | Answered on Nov 05, 2013

You would need to know if the coil has voltage and a ground signal from the module. Problem could be in the stator in the distributor if equipped, or the crank sensor if it is DIS.

1991 Mazda... | Answered on Sep 22, 2012

So you know the fuel pump would have nothing to do with the plugs getting spark, right ?
You said the coil tested good, is it getting voltage from the key switch and a ground signal from the distributor ?

1991 Mazda... | Answered on Sep 13, 2012

Did you change the fuel filter? If so what for fuel pressure is it getting

1991 Mazda... | Answered on Aug 11, 2012

Take a screwdriver and poke out the light. Or get an OBDII reader, see what the problem is, fix it, then cancel the codes to turn off the light. Either method works.

1991 Mazda... | Answered on May 07, 2012

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