Top 20 2000 Ford Mustang Questions & Answers

did you program module

The part itself depending on where you buy it is between $6.00 -$15.00 the labor depends on the shop you can do this very easily with a little bit of tools jack up the rear of the car mark the drive shaft remove the bolts that attach it to the rear end then move the drive shaft back to get it out of the tail of the transmission then pry out the seal be careful that you don't Crack the tail case light tapping with a hammer will work to pry out the old seal then apply grease to the new one inside and out and lightly tap it in flush with the tail housing reinstall the drive shaft with the marks lined up and tighten the fasteners and guess what you did it and your done there is a flat space in the spline of the drive shaft that mates with the output shaft of the transmission in case you have problems lining up the drive shaft ok this is very simple to do

There's a switch in the lock itself in the trunk if you have a continuity tester check the release button first then the wires going to the trunk make long jumper wires from speaker wire and check for continuity then try jumping the lock itself with battery power and see if it works there is an accessory relay for that stuff but is everything else working door locks windows etc. ? That's in your passenger fuse box if all is working that's not it and go with the continuity checks pull out the glove box switch and touch the switch pins with each lead then press the button if the tester light comes on or meter beeps the switch is fine go to the wires next and do the same thing one end at the glove box plug to the other in the trunk for each wire if they light up or beep all good and the lock maybe bad if no beeps or lighting there's a wire break and check by sections at a time good luck stephen

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use a scan tool to reset the ECM to get the immobilizer to work

Make? Model?

it is possible the light switch is faulty

camshaft bearing maybe

-Sounds like blow head gasket, broken or burn valve. -Do compression check each cylinder to see what you have and compare to its specification. Or -Was it recently rebuild? If so then timing might be off. spark plug wire connect to the wrong spark plug. Vacuum line might connect to the wrong line. Bad rotor or cap . Good luck Mai

Fuel filter or weak fuel pump?

On your fuse panel, check the fuse that says ign.it is the 4th one back from the front and is a 40 amp fuse.

get under the vehicle (use ramps) and check all linkages for movement pull push on the anti roll bar links, pull push on steering rack and pinion and linkages, any excessive movement, jack each wheel at a time, using a bar check the lower wishbone joints for movement, get the bar in the gap between the wishbone and lower part of the shock. and pull down, if any movement in ball joint up and down replace. while wheel on vehicle check for movement in bearing you will feel a tiny amount not much but pull and push on wheel with opposite hands on 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and do the same at 9 and 3. now with both wheels off the ground but with the tyres still on, have some one holed one wheel and push pull on wheels each side there should be even movement between both wheels, if everything is fine with the the steering linkages and this dose not feel or sound right then this could be the problem also to add if the inside and out side of the tyres are wearing then the tyre pressure is wrong and needs adjusting to the right tyre pressure .

Does the mustang have independent (IRS) axel or the solid 8.8 rear axel?

most soft tops are operated with an electric wiper motor could be just a rust problem, check behind the seat or in the boot of the car, these are normally behind a panel, a little Q20 should sort it out

If I was You I would take it to someone else! They may have replaced things that didn't need replaced! I would check online to find a repeatable mechanic to check this out!

Change the fluid in the trans. If that dont work then your throwout is going bad and not disengaging clutch fully.

check the wiring on the sender unit , ground wire for good connection it masy be a gauge and resistor problem but I suspect it is in the wiring or the sender unit at the tank

It should be relatively uncomplicated, the hinges bolt directly to the pillar of the car, and the wiring harness should have a disconnect under the dash. Support the door, unbolt the four to eight bolts that secure the door, unplug the harness and remove the door.

Sorry I don't know what roushed is. I am not sure what the starter has to do with the lights and that story seems a non-starter. I think lots of folk expect a fairly conventional circuit and become bewildered when it doesn't seem to work that way. I think the problem is your car probably uses a CAN-bus system where everything including the lights is switched on by a computer. When the driver moves a switch it merely sends a signal to a computer to energise a relay and light them up. I am not sure why but unconventionally the supply seems permanent and the switching tends to be done on the ground side. Certainly I doubt little progress can be made without reference to a circuit diagram. I once had a similar problem with a Volvo and traced the fault to a mini computer (I thought). Considering the cost of a replacement the owner said he was selling the car. I made the car legal by connecting the left and right lights together but he didn't sell quickly enough and after a few weeks both lights went out... I was again called on to make the car legal and so I wired the headlamps the old fashioned way and fitted a temporary light switch to the dash.

Do you have the same size tires on the rear? That will change the limited slip differential dynamics at higher speeds and tell the computer one wheel is spinning faster than the other and slow the car down when trying to engage the traction control.