20 Most Recent 1997 Ford Econoline - Page 7 Questions & Answers

need to take door panel off to get to it the window track is broke if keep trying to get it to work it can bust your window then it going to cost more to fix..

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t647442-heater_control_switch_only_works_high

most were hydraulic clutch systems but depending on engine and gearbox in vehicle

intakes must be free from dirt or dust. check and clean the intake manifold runner.

Sounds like the heater control valve/ blend door. The actuator may be stuck or broken. The actuator opens and closes to adjust for the heat setting in the car. You might be able to take a coathanger and manually open the door if you can get to the control arm. They are usually hard to get to and pretty expensive. It is located under the dash at the heater core box. Good luck.

park up hill on jack stands & leave radiator cap loose to burp air out. Go through cool to warm cycle where thermostat opens (upper hose will be hot).

Or, go to shop with evac/fill equipment & let them do flush & fill ($80).

If the engine is getting warm, then you have one of 2 problems. First is a warm/cold air door motor located under the dash. Second would be a clogged heater core that would need flushed. If your motor is not getting warm then you need to replace your thermostat.


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You can fix this but you need some specical tools You need a tubeing cutter and a flaring tool you can buy sections of brake line im not suppose to name stores but it begins with an N and ends with an A cut the line back to a point where its sound its easyer if you can remove the other end at a fitting then you;ll olny have to make one flare under the vehicle the flareing tool is about 30 dollars and the tubeing cutter is around 5 -10 dollars thr line is cheap You need to flare the old line to make it work with the new fitting you can;t use compression fittngs there not legal and won;t work if you have a problem getting the fitting end of at the rear wheel try hitting it with a propane torch for a few seconds not to long don;t start a fire or melt your rear wheel cylinder The instructions for the flareing come with the tool don;t try to dubble flare its not nessary but this will be a perminate fix and all you have to do is bleed the rear drivers side wheel cyinder good luck

here is how your system works. The mode switch provides power to the blower relay. With the relay on, 12 volts goes from the relay to the blower motor. The negative power comes thru the resistor and switch (except for Lo, which doesn't go thru the swtich), which also has a thermal fuse. If the 50 amp fuse in the engine compartment is good, the thermal fuse in the resistor is the most likely cause, though switch failure often causes the thermal switch to blow. You should use an ohmmeter to test the switch for multiple continuities. There is no power to the switch except what comes thru the motor and resistor. Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6234839-doesn_t_heater_or_air_conditioner_blow and let me know if you have questions.

HEAD LIGHT FUSE SHOULD BE LOCATED UNDER THE DASH LEFT OF STEERING COLUMN.

Sounds like under the dash you may have moved the switch that releases the electronic solenoid that disengages the shifter look near the brake pedal and look for a button that is not being released. It should be plastic.

Make sure your blend door in your air distribution box behind the dash is moving freely. If it is then check your coolant level and make sure that coolant is flowing through your heater core. Is it possible that your thermostat is stuck open or possibly not even present on your engine. A stuck or missing thermostat can keep an engine from reaching operating temp.

there is an oil fill pipe under the hood, it is (the cap) marked with a little oil can in yellow

in your engine compartment there is a valve on one of your heater hoses.it controls temp it might be discounted or stuck close..checkers has a online web site where you can see what the valve looks like and get a price if you need one..if no heat is coming in car thats the problem..the vents are vacum operated and if there is a leak you would have slight rough idle maybe..dosnt hurt to check..check heater under dash for broken vacum lines also engine compartment for vacum leaks..

NO...... only cause the car to over heat. They are not even closely related

HI you will find your fuse box either in your glove box or under the dash on the drivers side. the fuse you are looking for is#23 and it will be a 20amp fuse. good luck

Look for a vacuum leak, open up the motor area and listen for a hissing sound. After you locate the air leak, replace the little rubber hose with new vacuum hose avalible at your local auto parts store. If it still jerks forward after you replace the hose then you will need to replace the (IAC) idle control valve. Click on the link below to view:

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/5027-01017385.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=1997-1999+Ford+Econoline+Super+Duty+Idle+Control+Valve+Delphi+97-99+Ford+Idle+Control+Valve&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base

most likely is the brake light fuse........also if you turn the key to the first position then you can shift it to neutral .at that point you can start it and drive but it will do the same thing when you turn it off