i need dtails to acess the three rear plugs
Get all your tools ready and a few styrofoam cups to keep the bolts organized and labeled for re-assembly. Have a pencil and tablet handy for notes while doing the take-down. Forgive me if I can't name all the parts. I'm not a mechanic but I was able to successfully replace all six plugs. The key is to keep track of each part you pull & replace it in the reverse order. Number the cups with a marker 1,2,3,4,5.
You'll need a metric socket set,
a spark plug socket and a deep 8mm socket
A flat/slot bladed screw driver will also be handy.
A roll of tape to use as labels
In short, here are the abbreviated steps:
Disconnect the battery
Remove the engine cowling
Disconnect the throttle cable(s)
Remove the ribbed air intake hose
Disconnect the two black wire sockets on the throttle intake
Disconnect the two wire sockets at the top-left of the engine
Disconnect the three hoses in the back/center
Disconnect the solid pipe (saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold
Disconnect the instrument which is behind the solid pipe/saucer
Disconnect one hose from just in front of the master cylinder (brake fluid reservoir)
Remove four long screws at the corners of the manifold
Loosen eight screws keeping the manifold in place (these are captive)
Remove the manifold
Remove each screw holding the spark plug caps in place
Remove each of the spark plug caps
Remove and replace each of the spark plugs
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Now the more descriptive version:
Disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and set it off to the side. This is primarily for safety reasons.
Remove the three nuts from the cowling, pull it and set it aside with the three nuts in cup#1. You'll see the three forward spark plug caps now but WAIT until you have the back three also viewable.
Find the throttle cable(s) on the top and the throttle itself with a circular spring. Rotate it counter-clockwise to slacken the cable and disconnect it, and the secondary line/cable it is attached to. I don't know what the heck it is but it's plastic so be careful not to snap it. Remove the three screws keeping the throttle cables attached to the manifold and keep them in cup#2. There is one short gold colored screw on the left bracket and two longer silver colored screws on the right bracket. Flip the throttle cable up and to the left to get it out of the way.
Next, pull the ribbed air intake hose by loosening both the screw clamps and pop-out the sensor line on the top of the hose
Pull the larger end down and rotate it toward you to remove. Again, set it safely aside.
Since the ribbed hose is near the throttle body, go ahead and disconnect the two wire sockets from the throttle body. They'll be immediately to the left of where the ribbed intake hose attaches. These are easy to access when the intake hose is off but tricky while it's still installed.
Disconnect the two wire plug sockets (one black, one gray) at the top-left of the manifold. Once the sockets are separated, use the flat screw driver to pry/nudge the plastic retainers from the holes keeping the sockets attached to the manifold. Otherwise they'll snag when pulling the manifold.
Disconnect the three hoses on the rear-center of the manifold and label these with a piece of tape as L-C-R. One each for Left, Center, Right.
Disconnect the solid pipe (looks like a saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold by removing the two bolts keeping it's bracket in place. Keep the bolts in cup#3. The Pipe will pull slightly away from the manifold but you will NOT be able to completely pull it out. It will stay in place and you'll eventually see the total length after the manifold comes off. There is also a small gasket around the pipe; leave it in place and tape it down for safekeeping while you're working. Remove the tape when you're reassembling.
Disconnect the instrument behind the solid pipe. (Sorry, I don't know what it's called) First remove the front bracket bolt and put it in cup#4. The rear bolt is a combination set and is a little tricky. Remove the outward nut first and again use cup#4. Next use a deep metric socket to remove the remainder of the bolt and use cup#4. Basically this is a bolt with a permanent nut in the middle and uses a second nut on the end to retain two different parts. You'll see what I mean. This keeps 3 pieces in cup#4 but they all go to the same place.
Next, look to the top-right of the engine and find the master cylinder. (This is where you would add brake fluid if needed). You'll see a hose running from just in front of this area (NOT on the master cylinder itself) down to the manifold with a plastic clip on top keeping it attached. Depress the clip and disconnect the hose.
Now you're finally ready to tackle the intake manifold itself. There are 12 bolts keeping this in place (8 short captive bolts that won't come off, and 4 long bolts with small captive washers).
Look around the manifold top and locate the bolt heads. Use a socket with extension to loosen each bolt. You'll soon determine which bolts in the corner will come out. The other eight will NOT lift out and have larger washers.
Gently lift the manifold up, to the left and toward the front of the car. Make sure to check that nothing is still connected and keeping it in place. Watch the solid pipe, on the right, slide out of the manifold and be sure the gasket doesn't get lost! Carefully, place the manifold off to the side.
You should now see both the front three and the rear three spark plug caps, with six rectangular holes in the top of the engine. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP ANYTHING DOWN THESE HOLES!!!!! It would be a good idea to cover these up with duct tape while you're working on removing the caps, bolts and finally the spark plugs.
Unclip the ignition wires from the plug caps. Then remove the bolts retaining the caps and place these in cup#5. MAKE SURE NOT TO DROP ANY DOWN INTO THE CYLINDER HOLES.
Pull up the caps slowly with firm force. Do NOT **** them. Some may be stubborn to come off so use steadily increasing force until they pop off the spark plugs and come freely out of the recessed holes.
You'll need a very long socket extension to reach the spark plugs. Replace the plugs with the platinum tipped variety. I doubt you'll want to go through all this again soon to save $10 on parts.
That's IT! Now work backward, replacing or reconnecting parts in the reverse order as you pulled them. Cross each item off as you work backward. Remember to reconnect the battery terminal and test start the car.
Tada !!!! You've just saved yourself a costly maintenance cost and are good for another 100k miles.
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
I have a 2004 Mazda Tribute V6 that over the past year will start but will die quickly. If I start and hold gas pedal it will continue to run but once I let go of gas it will stop. If I wait approx an hour the car will start normally and I will not have an issue for another month or two and then it happens again. No engine codes register and no warning lights.
Try this, it's cheap, easy and it won't take long...and it will probably help...
I
have a 2001 Tribute and ithas had this problem since about 1 year after
buying it new. My motherin law also has one and it has the exact same
problem. You can crankthe carcold
(sometime even warm) and it will die unless you keep the gas pedal
pressed in. I suspect that this is a widespread problem with
theTribute. Forget about the Mazda dealer helping. There is a very
simpleand cheap solution:
1. Locate the idle air controlvalve...looking at your engine from the front of the car,
the valve islocated on top of the air intake towards the far right
corner of theengine (next to the plastic cover on top of the engine).
The valve ismetal, looks like a small metal cylinder is attached to it,
and isbolted on with two bolts. It also has wires plugged into it. You
can goto google images and type "Mazda tribute idle air control valve" to see what it looks like.
2. With engine off, unplug the wires from the valve.
3. Remove the two bolts and take valve off of air intake.
4.Inside
the metal part you removed, you will see two chambers with ashaft going
through them that can extend back and forth. The shaft hasa spring on
it, and a plug that can open or plug a hole between the twocavities.
This is the idle control valve.
5. Take a flat headscrew driver
and pry the shaft back and forth a few times to free itup. There will
probably be some dirt/grime on the shaft.
6. Takecarburetor
cleaner and spray it in the valve cavities. Allow it to soakfor a
minute and drain it out. Repeat if needed to clean it out.
7. Blow in it to dry it out.
8. Take WD40 and spray it in the cavities. Drain excess out
.
9. Take the screwdriver and work the shaft back and forth a few more times. The shaft should move freely.
10. Bolt the valve back onto the engine air intake and plug the wires back up to it.
Startthe
engine. If this was the problem, and the engine was stalling justbefore
doing this procedure, then it should start right up and idlefine. If it
was stalling sporadically when started, it should not anymore. I have
to do this procedure with my car every 6 - 12 months. Whenthis problem
first occurred with my car it took it to the dealerseveral times. Of
course it would not do it at the dealer, and theyclaimed ignorance as
to the cause. I suspect this is a cash cow forMazda.
Posted on May 22, 2010
sunroof on Mazda tribute stuck in tilt position ..switch doesnt seem to activate at all....had a hesitation prob at end of last summer with switch...opened fine this morning..now doesnt seem to work at all....switch ?...motor?...fuse ?
its not the motor I just had the same problem. its the switch. I cant find one to replace it but I know its the switch because I took a piece of wire and jumped across the terminals on the switch itself and the sunroof closed.
Posted on Mar 05, 2013
Where is Bank 1 Sensor 2 located on a 2004 Mazda Tribute? This is an O2 sensor.OBDII code P0141.
bank 1 is the bank of cylinders closest to the firewall. the sensor will be located along the exhuast from that side after the catylitic converter
Posted on Apr 01, 2010
I have an 04 tribute with 80k miles and the front suspension is making a knocking/rattling noise when I go over even the smallest bumps and at slow speeds. I took it to a service station and they said I needed new struts/mounts, sway bar links, and rear shocks. Is there any way I can see for myself if either of these are causing the problem. Just trying not to get taken by the service station.
Thanks.
I have the same problem with a 2006, V6 AWD. I checked everything this morning and I am pretty sure the rattling is due to the rear engine mount, the one near the firewall. I will take it to a shop this week to get their opinion.
Another source of rattling is the plastic collapsible cover inside the fromt coil spring. They are hard plastic and rattles inside the coil spring.
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
how do you get it out
Radiator
Removal & Installation
2002-2004 Ford Escapes should be filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant or equivalent (yellow color). Always fill the cooling system with the same coolant that is present in the system. Do not mix coolant types.
NOTE: Do not add/mix orange-colored Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. Mixing coolants can degrade the coolant’s protection.
NOTE: The addition of Motorcraft Cooling System Stop Leak Pellets VC-6 darkens Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant from yellow to golden tan.
Used engine coolant should be disposed of in an appropriate manner. Follow your community’s regulations and standards for recycling and disposing of automotive fluids.
CAUTION
Never remove the pressure relief cap under any conditions while the engine is operating. Scalding coolant and steam will cause damage to the cooling system, engine and will result in personal injury. Wait until the engine has cooled. The coolant should be recovered in a clean container for reuse. If the coolant is contaminated, it must be recycled or disposed of correctly. Note that only about 80% of coolant capacity is recovered with the engine in the vehicle. Dirty, rusted or contaminated coolant requires replacement.
To Remove:
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
I have a 01 Mazda Tribute. The engine will start up sometimes but it'll shut off. It shakes too. I have power to the vehicle but it will not start up. How do I fix this?
the problem is probably an idle air control valve. its a cheap fix. the body is ford the motor is mazda.
Luke
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
HI I HAVE A 2001 MAZDA TRIBUTE AND THE CODES PO301 AND PO303 CAME UP IN THE DIAGNOSTIC REPORT. THE CAR TURNS OFF WHEN I WARM IT UP IN THE MORNING IN THE COLD AND AFTER THAT ITS FINE I ALREADY CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS WHAT ELSE CAN I DO OR NEED TO CHANGE?
cylinder 1 misfire and low compression. Plugs and wires changed plus new fuel injectors. The engines still misses and no one can find the cause. When put on the computer it read misfire cylinder 1.
Posted on Aug 25, 2011
My wife has a 2004 Mazda Tribute with a leaking windshield washer fluid resivour, does anyone know where I can get instructions on removing the resivour?
I had a similar problem. My first thought was that the reservoir was leaking but there were no holes in it. Then I noticed that the fluid hose had come off the hose junction fitting (above the passenger side fender -- hard to reach without taking off the panels) and fluid was siphoning out. Later on the hose came off again, and so when I had it in the shop for some other maintenance I asked the guys to look at it. They told me there was a pressure problem with the reservoir pump which was causing the hose to disconnect. They changed out the pump and it's been working fine now.
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
I had my alternator on my Mazda Tribute replaced, and now I get a strange whining noise that sounds like it's in front right of Mazda when I'm turning left. Is louder if I'm accelerating harder.
Any Idea's?
Check alternator belt... When the new alternator was installed, they may have installed the belt to tight.
Posted on Jul 23, 2019
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