20 Most Recent 2004 Mazda Tribute - Page 9 Questions & Answers

To get to the alternator you will need to remove the pass/side tire and also the fender well cover then dissconnect the neg battery terminal,next is to remove the belt, you will need to remove the nut from the lower balljoint and seperate the spindle from the lower control arm this is so the axle can be removed. next is to remove the two nuts holding the axle bearing plate to engine bracket then remove axle, then you will be able to remove the alternator bolts and the connections to remove alternator , the alternator will come the area where the axle was.

The BCI group is96R. OE cold cranking requirement is 500 amps. Interstate recommends a MTP 40R.

I use and I'd recommend you register for free at www.autozone.com Once registered you'll have access to repair and shop manuals for virtually any car or truck. All the data and diagrams you need now or may need in the future will be a couple of mouse clicks away.

1.1 hours to remove the steering knuckle, an additional 1 hour to replace the bearing, and yes you could replace the axle shaft at the same time if you wanted but if you do you should also replace the axle shaft seal as well and that would be an additional 1 hour labor.

well most of the time the oil sending unit it located pretty much right in the general area of the oil filter most of the time it is a small canister looking desin i provide a pic not of your car but what you would be looking for

if it helps please leave me positive review thanks

all O2(oxygen) sensors are located on the exhaust manifolds, this is the piece that connects to your exhaust that goes out to the muffler out to the rear of the car. this is in the engine compartment and should stand out. it will be the only electronic piece with a wire in the exhaust. you can unbolt it right off the exhaust an replace it with a new one

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. There are many things that can cause your check engine light to come on. When it does come on, this means the computer has detected a problem with the vehicle. Every car has this system. Anytime it is on, you can usually get a code number off the computer scan. The hookup is under the dash in most cars. You can buy a cheap one for around 50 dollars at most auto part stores. If you do buy one, you may need to find what each code means. If you don't own one or you can't get to one, you can take it to Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts to get your vehicle scanned. Most places do not charge for the scan. Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts do not charge when your check engine light is on. They will be able to scan it for you and give you the codes. They will let you know what it says and what parts you will need as well. if you ask. If your check engine light is flashing, this means there may be internal engine failure. If this is your case, get it scanned as soon as possible. The longer you go with the light on, the greater the chance you have to make the problem worse. Some of the newer vehicles has this system already built in. You will need to know sequence though, to make the code appear

Try cleaing the throttle body first, Cheapest thing to do and it's DIY.. Make sure to use throttle body/air intake cleaner and a tooth brush.

Hi, the seal on the cap can be rotten causing condensation keeping the gas tank filled or at least above half is the best to do for any car.A bad seal on the gas cap could allow water to get in down the tank...

If brake pads are replaced.Still check the calipers,also check the nut holding the caliper,if that is got loose or its out then this can cause such grinding noise.Also get the brake pad fitting rechecked.If that fitting is loose it can cause the noise.But if brake-pads including rotors and calipers checked out ok then the problem is related either to the axle or the tie rods. ---------- Also check the metal thin bracket that hold the brake pads in place. This bracket is has small tabs on it. If one of the tabs breaks off and the pad gets misaligned and causes a squeal and a popping noise whenever you slow down the car or apply break. ----------------- This should help.thanks.Helpmech.

if it was me i would get a battery then you can use the remot to open the door, not sure why the key will not open the door, except that you might tried to open it with a coat hanger, the rod that is attached to the lock should open it with the key.

Good for your husband, he used the correct method for checking for leakage. One of the circuits on that fuse is drawing power. First, was everything on that fuse switched off and were the doors all closed? If possible substitute the test lamp for an amp meter and get a reading of how many amps are actually flowing. This might point you in the direction of the faulty part, like 1 amp will be a small bulb or 3 amps might be a door lock that switch that is stuck. Try isolate each of the systems one by one that you mentioned and see which puts the lamp off - there will be a small flow for clocks and security systems etc.

CHAGE THE RELAY FUSE

the on board computer has detected a problem with one of the systems that it monitors,you need to have the code checked by a scan tool as this is the only way to find what code is set,then it will have to be checked to find what the problem is that caused the light to blink and repair the problem

Take it back to them. It sounds like a sensor came loose. I'd take it back and have them warranty their work.

spray some penatrating catalyst on the latch. A can of PB works the best.

P0305 = cylinder 5 misfire
P0316 = misfire detected during start up in first 1000 revolutions.