1997 Mazda Protege - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Depends what year if has diagnostic or not always check wires seat belt and clickers first clean connected under seat

mMijn Mazda tribute van 2008 geeft zonder reden opeens alarmsignalen af.Is hier iets aan te doen?

CHECK THE AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH FUSE AND RELAY.IF BOTH GOOD YOU HAVE OPEN AC CLUTCH COILOR THE COMPRESSOR FAULTY.IF COMPRESSOR CLUTCH COIL IS OKAY AND COMPRESSOR GOOD.YOU HAVE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM AT THE AC MODE SWITCH.NOT ALLOWING AC AIR DOOR OPEN.

If the transmission fluid level is ok then its time for a overhaul.

The valve cover gasket may be leaking. Ensure the bolts that secure in place are tightened properly. (Do not over-tighten!)

No, the fans have separate relays. You have to use the wiring diagram to sort it out. The pcm turns on the cooling fan relay with a ground signal on a purple/black wire when the temp sensor signal rises too high.

sooty plugs and misfiring indicates problem injectors run a couple of quality injector cleaner through the tank and see if that improves the running

You've pretty much answered your own question, although I doubt it's demons...LOL. Ign switch, nuetral safety or park switch, shorted starter, could be chaffed wiring. If your in the ON position and the starter engages, I'd be looking at the ign wire from the switch to the starter solenoid and or relay. Your car is 20 years old so anything is possible at this point. Your best bet is to go to ALLDATA>COM and buy the wiring schematics for your car grab a DVM and start checking your circuits.

if you can see the cam shaft turning then the timing belt is ok run the fault codes and check for crank position or cam shaft position sensor failures one or the other or both are candidates for your problem

It indicates a loose battery terminals.

Take it to your Mazda Dealer and they will put it on thcomputer and fix it in 5 min.

I would try a flush. If its set up like my 96, and it likely is, changing the trasmission gasket and filter will be difficult. Mine has a medal plug on the bottom and takes an allen wrench, and possibly a breaker bar. If you take out this plug, drain, flush then refill via the dipstick tube and a funnel, it may help. You may need to do this a couple of times due to fluid still in the torque converter, pan, etc.
Lucas is good stuff, I would add it again when I was done. The tranny fluid should be pink, mine looked like used oil black before I flushed it.
Also, when adding the new fluid, shift slowly up and down through all of the gears to lube well and check your fluid levels after 100 miles or so, as sometimes a bubble will form and make it look full....then not after it pops.

hard starting when cold indicates that the ambient temp sensor , baro sensor,MAP sensor individually or separately are part of the problem when a code is reported there can be up to 7 causes for that code and not just the one if you can find what the code reported was maybe some one can expand and get you more pointers it is doubtful if you have a problem pcm or ECM or any other operating control unit because it starts eventually and runs so that indicates a problem sensor

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygOPOCATanI Hope this helps

If you cannot find the freeze plug, it is probably because you have no idea what you are looking for. First off, there isn't just "A" freeze plug on an engine, there are numerous ones located all around the block and sometimes on the cylinder heads as well. Some are concealed between the engine rear and firewall, some may be concealed behind accessories such as the power steering pump, water pump, or alternator, and yet others may be hidden between the engine and transmission. A freeze plug is a recessed metal disc that is pressed into the casting to allow expansion of freezing water to pop it out, preventing the casting from cracking in the event of a freeze-up in extremely cold conditions. Unfortunately, these plugs corrode over time and may leak, requiring replacement. The rule of thumb is that if the offending plug is accessible, replace the bad one and move on. If it is not accessible and you need to remove the engine to provide service, then you are best suited to replace ALL freeze plugs since you already have access to them and if one has gone bad, the others may well soon follow. You wouldn't want to go to the expense of pulling the engine to replace a rear freeze plug, only to have to it again in the short-term future. Here is a shot of some freeze plug openings....one with a plug in it and two that are open. Additionally, removal of the freeze plugs also allow for more thorough cleaning of the engine block in the chemical tank during engine overhaul and rebuilding processes.

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem Mazda Protege 1994 1998 Repair Service Manual PDF

there is another fuse at the back of the radio , will need to remove the radio to replace the fuse

First, is your clutch working? Check this by turning the engine off then put the car in first gear. Firmly apply the parking brake and fully depress the clutch pedal and hold it depressed as you crank the engine. If the engine starts and the car and revs normally then check the oil level in the trans. If the car tries to jump forward then adjust the clutch.