1997 Mazda 626 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

buy a chevy

I'm going to take a guess and say likely to be in the passenger compartment. Sometime, they are near the glove box. You can also look under the driver side compartment. There should be a plastic protective cap. Use a flashlight.

try having the fault codes read first then fixing the faulty sensor indicates a fuel pressure or injector problem

Some you have to reprogramme them go on youtube

have a look here http://workshop-manuals.com/mazda

Check fuses under hood and stater relays located in the power distribution box.

Are the plugs wet with fuel? Check for spark. No spark? it may be the ignition module. Plugs dry and spark present? No fuel?Spray a little starting fluid and see if it will run on that. Then check pump fuses and for fuel pump noise.

May I suggest to use a OBD2 scanner and see if it could be a setting in the ECU (computer) that could be out... or engine part malfunction... it will scan for any errors... sounds like it could be the airflow sensor perhaps??

Did u find the answer???? I have the same problem!

time to replace the O2 sensor

I have not had a Mazda but in cars I have had it seem to be something which reminds me of timing belt which has slipped a tooth. If your car has a timing belt and has not been changed at the recommended mileage it would be something to check into. Most of my vehicles have been GM and I have had to change 3 timing belt all before 65,000 miles. It never did any damage to my engine but as I understand foreign cars have closer tolerances and can damage valves and pistons. I am sorry I can't be of more help. If your car has not lost any power other than what you have stated it is probably not the timing belt.

The battery does have enough of a charge to make the starter "click", but not enough power to engage the starter. First, try a set of jumper cables, to see it will start with a "known-good" battery.

Clean ground wire on where it connects to engine block and clean connections on battery. Make sure battery is charged. If battery is low, jump battery with another vehicle and see if it cranks at normal speed and starts.

This engine is one of the more straightforward types to time as no unusual or special procedures are required and the belt tension is automatically set by a spring. Because the alignment marks are all available at the front no special holding or setting tools are needed. The belt replacement and timing procedure will be completely intuitive to any competent person, however it is an interference engine and getting it wrong is likely to cause expensive engine damage. In this case I feel I must make the comment if you need to ask how to do the job you probably shouldn't be attempting it and make the suggestion you obtain a repair manual for your car or pay someone to do it for you this time so you can observe.

i am glad to know i am not the only one with this problem! have you found out what was wrong?

did you read the FSM book first, or alldata.com pages on how to bleed your ABS system?, some cars require a scanner that can cycle the modulator to bleed out air. 97 626, ill look. did you remove any parts , up stream of the modulator? (called the hydraulic unit by mazda) is the ABS lamp glowing? here is page on HU swap. (would be worst case) seems its not special bleeding type. "says "in the usual manor"

1. If necessary, remove the fuel filter and igniter mounting nuts and move them out of the way.
2. Remove the charcoal canister from the vehicle and if the vehicle is equipped with cruise control, remove the cruise control actuator.
3. Disconnect the brake lines from the hydraulic unit. Correct reassembly is critical. Label or identify the lines before removal. Plug each line immediately after removal.
4. Disconnect the electrical harness connectors to the hydraulic unit.
5. Remove the 2 nuts holding the hydraulic unit. Remove the unit upwards.

0.) disconnect battery first. The hydraulic unit is heavy; use care when removing it. The unit must remain in the upright position at all times and be protected from impact and shock.

1. Set the unit upright supported by blocks on the workbench. The hydraulic unit must not be tilted or turned upside down. No component of the hydraulic unit should be loosened or disassembled.
2. The bracket assemblies may be removed if desired.

To install:

1. Install the brackets if removed.
2. Install the hydraulic unit into the vehicle, keeping it upright at all times.
3. Install the retaining nuts and tighten.
4. Connect the electrical connectors.
5. Connect each brake line to the proper port and double check the placement. Tighten each line to 113-190 inch lbs. (12.9-21.5 Nm).
6. Fill the reservoir to the MAX line with brake fluid.
7. Bleed the master cylinder, then bleed the brake lines.
8. If removed, install the cruise control actuator and the charcoal canister.

STAND ON THE BRAKES. Also, many of them have a Physical RESET button you have to press, but most of those were in the 1970's.

check tranny fluid

I doubt that there is a reset button. Fuel pump is controled by fuel pump relay which is controlled by ECU, which computes the needed fuel needed by the engine, based on inputs from many sensors on the engine. If you are having problems check with an auto parts store who may help you read the error codes and will sluggest needed parts.