1993 Mazda 929 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

connect a amp meter in line to the compressor clutch cable, operate air con and check amps, should not above 12 amps .

problems include cam/ crank sensor failures immobilizer not operational flat fob key battery broken timing belt /chain ecm problem no fuel pressure run the fault codes to find the area ans sensors at fault

Ignition switch. could be a loose connection/plug also.

Here is a vid that shows the location as well as adjustment procedure.

Clean or replace the idle air control motor and also clean the inside of the throttle body. use brake clean and a toothbrush.

Headlight switch probably the problem. One circuit is shutting off when the other turns on. If it was a fuse or relay, it would just turn off...

First drain radiator fluid, then follow the lower radiator hose from the radiator to the engine. At the end of the hose it will lead to a metal thermostat housing. It's held on by 3 bolts. Remove these 3 bolts and pull away thermostat housing with hose. Take notice of the way the thermostat is positioned before removing. Its best to do all this while laying down, looking up.

Hi Shannon, befor you dive in and replace the indicator switch I would suggest you check the flasher unit. To replace the indicator switch you will need to remove the steering wheel (this usually means using a puller) Don't forget to punch match marks on the steering wheel and the column which must be aligned when assembling. Remove the steering wheel center cover. then the covers on the steering column Removed the screws (usually four) holding the stalk switch. don't forget to disconnect the battery and the wiring connection to the stalk switch. After replacing the assembly is opposite.to dismantling. Regards John

your vehicle has a cold start valve,, and they aren't cheap, but thats what causes this issue in a Mazda 929, Check this link ,, http://www.theautopartsshop.com/auto+car-usa+parts/mazda+929+fuel-injection-cold-start-valve.html

car wont start

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you have the battery charged. It can be an indication of a weak battery or a faulty alternator. If the battery light still on after charging then the problem will surely be on the alternator itself. If that's the case the alternator should be replaced to resolve the problem.

You may try to reset it to by removing the positive battery connector, letting it sit for at least 5mins. then reconnect it again. This will reset the system and can get the battery light off.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

try disconnecting - battery terminal for 10 seconds should clear codes

Try here - http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&_trksid=p3841.m39.l1313&_nkw=mazda%20929%20door%20panel&_sacat=&rvr_id=216116190515&MT_ID=335&crlp=2765493868_9887&tt_encode=raw&geo_id=491&keyword=mazda+929+door+panel&adgroup_id=1077570238

A vehicle needs 3 things to run. Fuel, Spark, and Air. So first off, if it is starting at all, the spark must be okay. So a couple things to check...First, check your air filter, make sure the vehicle is getting proper air flow. But mainly...This sounds like it could be a fuel problem. What might be happening, is when you turn your key to the ON position, your fuel pump activates, creating fuel pressure for the moment, but when you start your vehicle, the pressure just isn't enough to keep it running. Check the fuel pressure. It could be some other things also, if this does not help, let me know, and we can go farther into details. :)

Hello! Here is a list of Trouble codes for a 1993 Mazda...I would strongly suggest that you not purchase the vehicle...A long serious list...Looks like a faulty Electronic Control Module (ECM)...

Guru..........Saailer




02 Crank Position Sensor 2 (NE 2 Signal). 03 Crank Position Sensor 1 (G Signal). 04 Crank Position Sensor 1 (NE 1 Signal). 05 Knock Sensor. 08 Air Flow Sensor. 09 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. 10 Intake Air Temp. Sensor (Air Flow Sensor). 12 Throttle Position Sensor. 14 Barometric Absolute Press. Sensor. 15
and/or
23 Heated Oxygen Sensor (Inactivation). 16 EGR Function Sensor. 17
and/or
24 Closed Loop System. 25 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve. 26 Purge Control Solenoid Valve. 28 EGR Vacuum Solenoid Valve. 29 EGR Vent Solenoid Valve. 34 Idle Air Control Valve. 41 VRIS 1 Solenoid Valve. 46 VRIS 2 Solenoid Valve. 67 Coolant Fan Relay No. 1. 69 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (Fan). To Extract DTCs:

1. Warm engine to operating temperature and turn ignition "OFF."
2. Install jumper wire between TEN and GND terminals of data link connector.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
4. If MIL illuminates for 3 seconds, goes off, and stays off, no codes are present.
5. If MIL illuminates, then starts flashing, record codes.
6. When all codes have been recorded, remove jumper wire.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

You should be able to call a body shop and have them order you one. I used to work in my uncles body shop and you can get them. I have been out out of the body shop business about 10 year and don't have books anymore. On this I can not help you. You can e-mail Mazda, and they may be able to tell you. Try your friendly body shop, they can get it for you. hope this helps

is the solenoid clicking? If not, you can't blame the starter. See my tips at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5821173-doesnt_car_start_gasoline_engines

Maybe ignition module.

sounds like the timing is out and valves are hitting the pistons ,take it back to who ever done it and ask nicely for them to do it again ,its their mistake

Run a compression check on the engine, you may find several to all cylinders at zero to very low readings due to the engine being an interference engine--which means that if the timing belt breaks while running, valves and pistons will lose their reference to each other and cause several to many collisions between those multiple components. The compression check will confirm this. The proper fix in this case is to remove the cylinder head(s)(if a V6) and inspect the valves and pistons for damage, replacing either bent valves, or punched through pistons. In any case, this will likely cost a bundle of cash to fix. If not reassembled correctly, this problem could reoccur when you try to start it again. Best to have a lot of confidence in the person doing the repairs! You might look at replacing the engine outright with a new or professionally rebuilt engine from another country. The proper time to replace the timing belt is before it breaks! Hope this helps!