20 Most Recent 2006 Ford Mustang - Page 9 Questions & Answers

needs some gas 750 grms is about right for this model i think

maybe your ignition switch is moving dlightly out of the on position.

Try applying sight turing effort in each direction to see if the warning lights go off and the radio works, and the shift interlock solenoid clicks when you step on the brake pedal.
May need a new lock cylinder or ignition switch.

There is only one belt.

scan for codes
may just be code for stay alive memory in system (battery removal)
or may be issus with engine sensor

Item Part Number Description 1 6B209 Front end accessory drive (FEAD) belt tensioner 2 8620 FEAD belt 3 - Generator electrical connector (part of 12B637) 4 W705790 Generator B+ terminal nut 5 - Generator B+ terminal (part of 14B060) 6 W520414 Generator stud nut 7 W606068 Generator bolts (2 required) 8 10300 Generator Removal and Installation

1. Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.

1. Rotate the front end accessory drive (FEAD) belt tensioner counterclockwise and position the FEAD belt aside.

1. Disconnect the generator electrical connector.

1. Position the generator B+ protective boot aside, remove the nut and position the generator B+ terminal aside.
   • To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

1. Remove the generator stud nut.
   • To install, tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).

1. Remove the 2 bolts and the generator.
   • To install, tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

To remove the lower control arm raise and support your car with jack stands.Next you want to remove the wheel that you are replacing the control arm on.Remove the ball joint nut and tie rod nut.Tap the steering knuckle to break the tie rod end loose from the knuckle DO NOT HIT THE TIE ROD SO HARD YOU DAMAGE THE THREADS.If you do you will also be changing a tie rod end.Tap on the steering knuckle until your ball joint stud comes loose.Remove the 2 bolts that mount the control arm to the frame.To install the new one just go in reverse.

mot auto parts stores will tell you 60k miles, reality is 100-120 max.
Best regards
Ck

Some new vehicles dont have dipsticks for trans level check....depending engine size but it still has a fill tube in same area.....At back of engine toward the passenger side just like the older models......It will have a Normally black plastic cap that reads dealer service or something pertaining to service......It is hard to see...The dealer has a special dipstick that reads in degree levels and that is how they check it.....So it is still the same but no dipstick...You will have to look in owners manua lto find how much it holds...Although BE SURE THE LEVEL THAT YOU READ IS FOR THE PAN CAPACITY ONLY AND NOT WITH TORQUE CONVERTER....It should not hold more than 4 or 5...You can just measure what comes out by pouring it in empty court bottles
If you dont have a manual............................Hope this helps ................metalpoet

Since this trips to prevent fuel from pumping in a collision, it is made to be manually reset. The device on a son's Ford used to trip occasionally on our rough easement. On his car it was located behind a panel in the trunk.

Voltage regulator inside the alternator needs to be replaced even though it is still charging.

The windows also use relays which you will need to check.

Are you just talking about one window or all of them?

If it's all of them, whoever did the radio caused a wiring issue, hopefully it's a shop you can take it back to and have them correct the issue.

Hope this helps.

Most cars have a void underneath ( inside ) where the wiper arms come out. It catches rain water off the windshield so that it doesn't run down the firewall inside the engine compartment where there could be some electrical stuff. There will always be a drain hose to drain that area , which can become pluged up with leaves etc. over time. If you can look around under the car , and possibly in the wheel well , you might find the other end of that drain hose. A quick shot of water at the car wash , backwards up the hose , is often enough to clear the drain. Otherwise you might have to open it up and clean it out. If that area became full of water , there are lots of places where it could leak through the firewall and into the car.
Of course , if the water is actually engine coolant , then I would say your heater core has a leak.

Your heater core may be leaking or one of the couplers may have loosened & is causing the leak! The other thing that can cuase this is a leak in the windshield grouting. Pressure test your cooling system to see if there is a leak there. Good luck!

Hi and welcome to Fixya!

As a first course of action I strongly suggest that you replace the radiator and condenser blower. If they are faulty issues like this occurs for temp gives so much stress to the engine. Once replaced you'll be good.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Try a can of Tranx first. My dodge was doing the same thing 2 years ago. It took a couple of days as I only drove about 30 miles a day. But my transmission hasn't slipped since. And you can fix it yourself. You would have to get a solenoid package for the transmission, several hundred dollars. they don't sell just pressure control solenoid.

change fuel pump

Use an electronics parts cleaner then make sure you relube it with crc or wd-40. Please rate this for me.