1984 Nissan 300ZX - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Depends which cable is being replaced , earth cable from the battery needs to be the same size as the one going to the starter motor , earth cable from transmission to car chassies needs a braded cable, 4 gauge should be ok for most other places .

Replace complete injector

check fuze at battery ecm

Did you check your fuse box inside the vehicle.

See ebay item 291655690115 ~~ That's a shame... daily driver .. Nice car!... They are available... If you really love the car... you need to shelve that tranny with your FRIEND... until he figures out which hydraulic circuit is blocked by the debris created during that unfortunate "crush". Call it a spare It doesn't matter about master mechanic's pedigrees... if they can't get the proper pressures to the appropriate servos you need to find someone who can... or wait 'til your FRIEND can... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Automatic-Transmission-Tested-Good-/291655690115?fits=Year%3A1984'Model%3A300ZX&hash=item43e808a783:g:IkIAAOSwNphWX-6M&vxp=mtr Idioms: see eating, of, proof, pudding proof

normally if you your fuel injectors are triggering most likely your crankcase shaft sensor is okay which also controls the feed to your coil pack.

Before we go under the hood---did you check the cables/wires leading to the fuse box---and to the appropriate fuses---to make sure they are attached, not corroded or frayed? If so, carry on----- There are two relay boxes attached to the fender under the hood on the passenger side---one in front of the shock housing and a narrower one beside the battery. There should be a label and/or description on top of or under the lid indicating which relay covers what circuits or equipment. In your case, there may be more than one culprit----so check them all. BEFORE OPENING ANY RELAY BOXES or PULLING ANY PARTS----Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and secure it so that it cannot ground out against and body or engine part. To open the relay boxes,unhook the snap release tab on the side. DO NOT FORCE the tabs cuz they are easily broken and, if so, cannot be re-attached. Pull each relay separately, check it then replace it before pulling the next one. Note: You will have to pinch the snap 'release tab' (a bit of plastic not the same color as the relay itself) and probably have wiggle the relays a bit to get them out. Check each relay thoroughly. Even if they look 'whole', give the protruding wires a firm tug to make sure they are connected and haven't shorted out. If good, replace each relay before pulling out the next one. Once you find the culprit relay, take it with you when you go to the parts store so that they can match it exactly. Size and wire color matter. Note: There is yet another relay box inside the car---attached to the firewall under the drivers side dashboard. Check those relays as well and make sure to wiggle the wires on each. Note: In all cases, be sure to inspect the wires leading into and out of on the relay boxes themselves. Look for corrosion (usually white powder), melted coverings and/or frayed wires. Replace as necessary I repeat: There may be more than one broken/burnt circuit, relay or fuse so check them all. Once remedied, re-connect the negative cable to the battery and tighten it well. Turn your ignition key to 'Accessories' then back to 'Off' three or four times before actually starting the car---just to reset the computer(s) (if you have one) . Let us know.

There should be an arrow painted on the side of the filter. The flat side usually connects to the fuel injector side of the line.

Areas to look: Coolant temperature could be bad, located to the driver's side of the engine below the thermostat. corrode connections can cause the problem. Corrosion at the connections where it plugs into the air mass sensor. It's hard to see, but is is not that uncommon. Make a small tool you can get into the harness connectors to scrape each plug and then scrape the pins coming out of the air mass. The air mass sensor it self could be going south, but usually they act up even cold' Those would be areas I would start looking. Good luck.

Was the thermostat bad. To check it,put it in pot of water and boil on stove and see if it opens at 180 degrees,if it doesn't then it's bad.Are you sure water pump is circulating,doesn't have to leak to be bad.Is your radiator flowing good,not clogged and do you have a blown head gasket,check oil to see if it is milky.Is white smoke coming out of exhaust pipe.Also how does your spark plugs look like,not oily,I hope.

How many miles are on it? Could be timing chain wear.

ignition switch assembly. that what it sounds like.start there.

If Nissan 300zx, '84 thru '89

Serpentine belt? Any leaks? Alternator?

fisrt check bulb,if its not blown then check the fuses, switches that activate the light on each door hinge area.

Check fuel pressure with a gauge or at leastlisten for the pump to come on when key is turned onCut that fuel filter open, so you understand what it doesThey used to get clogged when fuel tanks were metal,but you never get a not start,only lack of power at around25 mphAre you sure you just don't have a no idle conditionIt runs 2 mins so what are you loosing,battery voltage,fuel,spark ?

WHAT IS IT DOING DOES THE MOTOR TURN

As with any no start issue, you will need to figure out if you are dealing with a no spark or no fuel problem to proceed.Check for spark at the plugs and fuel for the injectors next.Could be a relay or other electrical component.

Go thru ALL the fuses around the car, one has probably blown. U need to pull them out to chk them properly. I had a 300zx 1990 I had for 6 yrs, great car but did have this kind of problem every now and then. The lighting glow could be battery on the way out, I used to get only 2 yrs from one as they are heavy on the battery usage. cheers

Could be a relay, the resistor, or the blower motor.