20 Most Recent 1999 Pontiac Grand Am GT - Page 6 Questions & Answers

?? There are heaps of factors to consider it's not just a matter of '####' is draining your battery. there are loads of things that can cause your battery to go flat. Most likely thing is an old dead battery that needs to be replaced

Crank sensor or module. Check fuel pressure too.

If you remover the pull assembly off you'll see that it fits into this housing it looks like a gear almost that is the flywheel they may refer to it as fan but if you were to take that off underneath if where the magnets are located and also you could try cleaning the air filter as well but if it is hard to pull then I am pretty sure you fly or "fan" wheel is the culprit hope this helps

I'm with Nolan...Sounds like battery charging problem...ie alternator is beginning to fail in output...please get a free charging system check at your local parts store before you get stranded...Hope this helps.

Exhaust push rods are longer

• 6.0740 Inch Overall Length
• Standard Size
• Intake valves are
• 5.7460 Inch Overall Length
• Standard Size. Front head.

front head standing in front of car passenger to driver side Ex , in ,in Ex ,in Ex rear head standing in front of car passenger to driver side Ex. ,In , Ex , In , In , Ex remember exhaust push rods are longer Rocker arm bolt ................................ 124 lb. in.plus 30 degrees

Dawn, one of your lights are bad. turn on your lights and visually check which one are not lit and replace it.

It sounds like you blew a fuse. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/justin_3ae27a9d61d6acd4

check maxi fuses at fuse panel. located in engine compartment

P0115 is Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction disconnect coolant sensor ,look for antifreeze in connector if yes change coolant sensor and connector terminal hope it helps

It's possible that the fan control relay is intermittently sticking causing the fans to run continuously. This can overheat and subsequently blow the fuse. Try replacing the relay and see if anything changes.

Hope this helps.

don't always think about the more complex probs, as most are simple and can be done by any decent backyard mechanic..I don't know about the rest of you folks, but I inquire on this website for I DON'T have to take it to a mechanic...you have to have more confidence in your own abilities...I try to answer questions for that particular person does't end up taking it to a mechanic...I feel thats why they inquire on this website in the first place...garages are SO high in their prices its getting kind of ridiculous...don't ever leave a car running with jumper cables for more then a few minutes as it can shorten or burn up your electrical componets that some require less than one volt to operate...unlike the carburated of cars years past today's cars are more sensitive to the voltage changes it receives...see if battery charges up OK with a battery charger...it should be fully charged...the noise you hear if its a high-pitched whine could be a burned out diode in the alternater...if your battery is more than 3-4 yrs old its probably needs replacing...I'm constantly surprised at the number of people who always suggest you take it to a garage as most automotive chains (particulary Auto Zone will chek your charging system for nothing...obviously if they detect a problem they expect you to purchase the part from them...make friends with some of your neighborhood back yard mechanics...it'll save you alot of money!!...because of the fact that alot of electrical componets require less than a volt, its imperitive you keep the charging system up to par for its putting out between 12-12.7 volts (although I believe it can drop to a minimum of 11 volts).a simple electrical tester is a must have as your first tool ($10-$20) ...goog luck!!

Look at the alternator to see if it's working. If it doesn't work you won't have enough power to keep the computer, the ignition module or the fuel pump going. If the battery is older than 3 years, you may have to replace it too.

The 3800's also had other problems. And also Issues for those that are unaware. Be aware that there are bleeder screws to bleed air out of the system when filling the coolant. With out properly bleeding the system the coolant can Vaporlock in the system causing overheating. Also if it has been over heated you need to check for a blown head gasket. Smell the antifreeze, if it smells burnt you should be concerned. Next with the engine cold and the system properly bled, leave the radiator cap off and start the engine, if it bubbles constantly or bursts out of the open radiator cap, seek diagnosis at your local repair shop as they have the equipment to do so properly. I also suggest using an Infrared Thermometer to check temperatures with. if the engine is at 230f and the upper hose is at 200f, and the lower hose is still cool you likely have a clogged radiator. If the upper hose is cool as well then you have a bad water pump or t-stat. if the upper hose slowly warms, and you start to get bubbles then it's likely a water pump with the fins eroded off by electrolysis (gotta change that coolant at regular intervals) Also make sure the radiator fans turn on.

ETS stands for Enhanced Traction System.
This is GM's version of Traction Control - it improves traction (to reduce likely hood of skidding) on slippery or loose surfaces.

i'm not 100% sure with that vehicle, but you might be able to remove the back seat to gain access to the trunk

You need to replace your crankshaft position sensor located by the harmonic balacer. These sensors heat up and cut off the engine until the sensor cools down. This happens with age and it is not specific to GM.

You would need to figure out if the blower motor is operating at peak efficiency - if it is running fast on the high setting. If it is, the problem could be a blend door under the dash, or something else blocking air flow. If its not running fast, it could be the motor or a wiring problem. The resistor only cuts down current for the lower speeds.

have a compression test done to determine head gasket or cracked head . Check that the fan is operational . IF viscous fan hub and the over heating occurs at idle at lights etc the replace the viscous hub. Have the radiator flow tested for blocked cores and if blocked replace it as flushing is a waste of time . Check hoses and if the hose is soft and enlarged past the clamps then replace them. Have the thermostat removed and checked for correct operation

Odds are that the thermostat is stuck in the closed position. Replace it with a new one with a new gasket. Its easy to do and will cost around 10 bucks. Also watch the exhaust to see if it is making a lot of steam and dripping greenish water. If it is then you have a more serious problem like a blown head gasket or cracked head. Don't continue to drive with a overheating engine because it can cause the head to crack or warp.

99 pontiac, change oil light reset process... turn ignition switch to on (do not start) press the accelerater pedal to the floor and release it three times... you should hear an audible chime indicating that the light has been successfully reset. If not start over and try again.