Top 20 1999 Nissan Sentra Questions & Answers

Question edited to add MAKER Question moved to model category. Typing in CAPS is SHOUTING!

Diagrams https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+nissan+sentra+gas+tank+to+filler+neck ..

That was my first thought, too. But it would not "fry" the whole circuit, so don't give up yet, using the higher fuse may have just cost you one more step of finding the problem. So is it still blowing a 10 amp fuse? Either way what you really need is someone with a voltmeter or multi-meter to track down where the power has been lost. Most cars have the tail (or park lights) and the dash illumination lights on the same circuit, therefore using the same fuse, so an electrician could start by checking if the fuse has power with tail light switch on, then checking the wire going up to the dash, and how the tail lights wire is spliced with that or separately from the fuse and then routed to the rear. It always helps to have a wiring diagram, sometimes absolutely necessary with involved circuits. Your problem should be simpler, not so much to look after, although the colors of the tail light wires may be needed. The person with the voltmeter can follow the wires that way, sometimes you have to pull a harness apart to find the wires you need. It may take a little time, but anyone who knows how to use a voltmeter should be able to find the problem. It does take time, sometimes, alas.

I know nothing about using a jumper wire? I have some info for mil/malfunction indicator lamp, Nissan--96--2000. Doesn't specify model. The info is probably for Nissan sold in the US. It says there is a diagnostic mode selector switch on side of ecm/ecu. Using small screwdriver turn fully clockwise, after waiting 2 seconds, rotate the switch full ccw position. The diagnoses will end and memory will be cleared. They used to take negative battery cable loose for that, but, you may end up with unwanted or unexpected consequences, if you try that?

When the brake light and battery light come on at the same time on a Nissan, it is most likely the alternator. Perhaps you got a faulty alternator or it has failed already. Another possibility is a bad connection from alt. to batt.

have had this on different models and makes and what i do is to push brake pedal down and jam it down a length of wood or anything that holds the pedal down a bit not hard down -and leave overnight .if this fails then renew the master cylinder

Those are not valid codes, recheck them. Please check the fuel pressure under a load like accelerating, also check for excessive exhaust flow back pressure due to a plugged catalytic converter.. Also try unplugging the MAF sensor, if it is defective the engine will run better (almost normal with slight hesitation) but the check engine light will come on.

Have you observed any leaks or loss of oil in your engine? Though this may not be the case, my daily driver suddenly started flashing the oil light after a couple days. I saw some oil spots in the garage a few days before finding out that I was in for a very costly repair... The rear oil seal, in between the crankshaft and the flywheel was dislodged and eventually needed replacing. Hope this is not the case for you, and it is a simple fix for you by checking if the oil filter is properly seated and there are no leaks. Pull out your oil dipstick and ensure that there is enough oil in the crank case to flow around the engine during operation. Many times the oil light coming on is an indicator of inadequate oil pressure, and should never be dismissed as a simple error in the system, regardless of having a proper lube job done recently. Hope this helps.

Has the battery been tested, it sounds like a defective battery.

Hello Carl Labayan, There are actually several things that ca be causing this behavior... Since I have FEW specifics about your vehicle... I'll simply tell you the best place to start would be your OBD (on board diagnostic) SYSTEM... ought to be registering good codes for you to start looking ... JUST REMEBER to look at the codes from a WHOLISTIC perspective... ASSUMING YOU ARE FUEL INJECTED... if a RUSTY baffle plate is bouncing around inside your muffler you are going to register multiple air-fuel codes... (very well standardized by 1999 (I'm just saying)). Because so much of your vehicle is run by computer now... You have and added level of difficulty: The fact that it restarts & runs immediately would make ME CHECK for loose connections in your fuel system, ignition... or collapsing or rusted out EXHAUST (mufflers and/or catalytic converters). Good luck & happy hunting!!

Black smoke is to much fuel. Have the codes read. Driving it like this will burn out the catalyst system. Not a cheap fix.

Here's a link to your switch,it has a nut holding it on,remove it then it will come off. Stoplight Switch at AutoZone com Best Stoplight Switch Parts for Cars...

check that your spark plug wires are all secured tight. the far right cylinder is giving you the issue, cylinder #4. Is the engine light flashing while the car is running? if it isnt flashing, then its a past code and isnt misfiring anymore. if the engine light is flashing, you either have a bad plug wire, or a bad ignition coil/distributor.

Time to have the computer scanned for trouble codes but it sounds like there is a problem in the transmission. Google is your friend also........

What does the gearshift lever feel like? sloppy? it could be a loose linkage between the lever and the box. Other than that, it could be a blocked valve body. This entails lifting up the vehicle on an overhead lift, draining the automatic fluid, removing the oil pan from the box, removing the valve body and cleaning it out. Normally a professional's job, but you can do it in your home workshop if you have the courage.

Here's a link to your firing order. Specifications Firing Order AutoZone com

could be your struts

Make sure the fuel filter is not clogged.

Sound like it in failsafe mode due to faulty air flow sensor. Just a guess here

Most auto supply stores will want the part number off of the pump and they will get you the proper plate. If you are asking how do you remove it, you will need a copper punch and a small hammer and tap it out equally all around in increments. Gently or you may damage the seal. same procedure in reverse when you install it.