1990 Mercedes-Benz E-Class - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I don't know much about Mercedes, but that is exactly what most other vehicles will do when the MAF(mass air flow sensor) is faulty. It's always a good idea to find one at an auto wrecker, and try it. Or the fuel filter clogged? Hope this helps.

E class merc ing barrel wiring as some one changed it and the wires come out the plastic housing at rear 1994 car

simple enough job to change but check the drive in the gearbox first in case the nylon gears have failed or the square drive ,but normally this sort of failure is due to a tight inner cable but check them anyway as you renew the cable

before you get a new ignition switch you might want to check the starter relay in the fuse box and make sure that it isn't sticking, then check the wiring of any recent modifiactions (if any) to make sure that none of the wires are running off of the alternator charge curcuit this will cause the engine to run itself.

First start by jump starting. If jump start works, you have a bad battery. If it does not, then starter is bad.

With the cable attached to the speedometer ask someone to observe as you make few turns in a flash on the cable , if there is no noticeable deflection the speedo moving a little above the zero - parking position- then the speedometer cablke connection socket is worn out as it can become rounded off in long usage.If so adjust with a SHIM placed into the socket of the meter to wedge.
however is there is deflection then the pinion in the gear box connecting the cable is faulty , the worm gear must be worn out.

Ensure you have the ignition timing set correctly for the engine you now have. Ensure you have no vacuum leaks, unplugged lines at the manifold or carb.
I would discourage trying DIY on gas as its very dangerous. professional fitted use brass spanners and tools to avoid sparks igniting the gas. i would suggest you bring it to a specialist.

check the air mass sensor.

yes the oil pump is located in the sump. The oil pan would have to be removed and it can be kind of a time consuming repair. Hardest part is getting the oil pan out once you have it loose. Need to raise the motor up in order for clearance. Not too common those oil pump have to be replaced since they are chain driven and completely mechanical.

possibly not enough fuel presser, check fuel pump and fuel presser, is this information helped you?

I would have the cailitc converter checked out or maybe a fuel filter.

Most likely caused by a dirty throttlebody! Remove the intake hose to the throttlebody and clean around the inside and the butterfly valve as well with some brake clean or similar product! Throttlebodies get gummed up by carbon build up effectively closing off the idle airgap under the butterfly valve!

Do have the ability to check fuel pressure from the pump? You can also check for spark at the wires. 1. check for spark(if you have spark, great. It wont be a cps or ignition module) 2. Check for fuel by cracking one of the lines coming from the CIS(fuel distributor)to the fuel injector( should be a 12mm wrench). If no fuel is seen while cranking, check for fuel at one of the side lines(17mm wrench) and have someone turn the key on(please be careful, if it is working, it will spray fuel at you. Use a rag to prevent it.). If no fuel is seen, go under the vehicle, passenger side and just in front of the rear wheel area, you should see a black cover. Remove the cover(10mm nuts and bolts) and while someone cranks the vehicle, tap the fuel pump. It should come on. If it fails to, replace the unit to include a new fuel filter. Please feel free to contact me if you need anything else. This should be a 124 body if anybody asks. You will find the body number in the first 3 digits of the vin on the driver's side windshield area by the "A" pillar. W124.......

There is a electromagnetic fuel pressure regulator on the back side of fuel distributor , they tend to leak .
Not cheap but easy to replace.

Replace the O2 sensor. Replace or clean MAF. Replace OVP if applicable. Run fuel injector cleaner through. Replace catalytic convertor.


All these things play a part. As long as your ignition system is in order these are the things to check. If cap, rotor, coil have not been replaced try that.

Hey,
take a look at www.airbagmodul.com

They're working in Airbag-Simulators and Occupancy Sensor-Simulators.

Regards

Gerrit

Battery had nothing to do with tumbler dying. The best thing you can do is get 2 pins that fit in the holes on the tumbler and get the key to turn 1 more time so you can just pull the tumber out and repplace.

recharge freon. Most likely cause to A/C not working.

Try to test the horn circuit by using a test light and grounding out the terminal of the horn to a ground. If this doesn't sound the horn, and the test light lights showing current, then the horn is bad.

The radio will have to be removed from the dashboard.

Then post the radio make+model plus all the letters+numbers on any labels,barcodes or engraved in the metal casing.